Joely P

Received with thanks Richie [emoji106] Looks like a good bit of kit.

Looking at the pics, it looks as though you guys did use that line to park the rear wheels on, it's just that the line gets gradually closer to the wall towards the top of the ramp. Just ignore me, see you all there [emoji41]

Ah yes I remember now [emoji106] Although can we move them away from the wall a little more? I seem to recall it getting a bit close towards the edge where the ramp is. Using this line in the pavement would make an ideal marker to keep the curve uniform for the first row...

I don't see how they can add it to the system as there is no data available from the manufacturer to categorise the test. They may have added the 300zx to the database, but I'm fairly sure it'll remain in the same, non-cat test, category.

Awesome Gary, want to see plenty of pics please [emoji106]

Can I make a suggestion? As a club at shows, in my experience we seem to just park the cars on the stand when we arrive and leave them without giving too much thought to the layout of the cars. At this show, what are the chances that we can form some kind of a parking plan to make the cars look more placed? I appreciate this would not be an easy task and not something I'd want to take on myself(!) but if we can settle on a "formation" in advance and have 1 or 2 dedicated "marshalls", I think it could make them look much prettier collectively and provide great photo opportunities. There doesn't have to be any order of who goes where, just guidance for whoever turns up first to whoever turns up next in an attempt to continue the chosen pattern and keep the positioning consistent. Here is a satellite image of the area that we park, based on the expected turn out we could plan spacing and basic layout in advance?

Get ya name on the list dude!

Bugger, I'm working [emoji17]

Are you bringing this beast to Coventry? I'd love to see it in the metal [emoji106]

Interesting. I wonder when it became the standard fitment.

What a turd. Looks like a very carefully thought through underbody protection program too! "Shall I strip this down and carefully apply the underseal to the required areas? Nah, f**k that, I'll just spray shit everywhere until everything is completely covered". I bet he didn't even bother cleaning before he slapped all that underseal on, sealing in a load of dirt and rust! To be fair, other than the US where some were recalled to have the "series 2 PTU" fitted, no 300zx was fitted with one from the factory, regardless of what series or year it was (possibly excluding 99 spec cars). The series 2 PTU is originally a part from a Skyline.

Because of the flex in the OEM spoiler, when laid flat the weight tends to twist the tips up ever so slightly. When the mould is taken, it suffers the same fate and was one of the reasons why I still have a discarded prototype spoiler in my loft. Ideally, a mould would be taken of the top part of the spoiler when fitted to the car, then once removed, the spoiler would be placed back into that mould to form the other half. Unfortunately that isn't practical.

The grass is plenty green enough where you are, leave alone!

Good work Andrew, did it put up a fight?

Is there a cutoff date for registrations?

Did you apply the seam sealant with a pitch fork and wire wool? [emoji1] Just kidding matey, what a superb transformation [emoji106]

Fair enough, if you lot are all driving home in different cars, I'll help myself to the M6 [emoji41]

They found your Columbian "add-on" items?

Is there something wrong with your current turbos? If not I'd suggest looking at other mods to improve low/mid range performance. Namely intake and exhaust breather mods such as larger intake piping, larger throttle bodies, dual intakes (Selin), MSP manifolds, 3" downpipes and 3"-2.5" decats. This would greatly improve torque at the same boost pressure giving you the desired performance improvements you're after.

Hand raised. [emoji112]

SWB Slicktop [emoji106]

http://www.teamimports.com/2016/03/latest-news-silvia-s16-by-nissan-is.html?m=1

Fuel level gauge mod? I experimented with this a few years ago and removed the dial face on a spare cluster I have. I can't remember exactly what needs removing but I do still have the gauge that I can take pictures of and refresh my memory. I do remember deciding that it was a little too risky as the mechanisms and counterbalance for the needle movements are very fragile.

Well it's entirely up to you but drilling a hole seems a bit counterproductive to me as it could potentially cause more problems. I know the area you speak of where the subframe mounts and I was able to access it with a flexible wand and also confirm that the area was saturated.

There's no need to , all the sill/box section cavities can be accessed relatively easily without the need for drilling. A flexible cavity wax wand in the right holes using the right technique is all you need.