RobH

Hi All, Following on from my post about a dodgy temperature sensor - my revs don't drop quickly when releasing the accelerator. It seems like the throttle isn't snapping shut, gently closing instead...(?) Is this likely? Worn springs perhaps? It's most noticeable when engine is cold, changing between gears at low revs - the revs actually go up a bit to about 2000 rpm before dropping. Idle speed is also too high - just below 1100 rpm when warm. Any advice appreciated... RobH PS I've looked at MacieJ's erratic idle pages already.

Hi All, My ecu temp sensor has seen better days, the plastic housing on both the sensor and the loom connector are cracked and the metal retaining clip has long since disappeared. Anyone got any bright ideas about repairing this effectively? Best I can come up with is hard wiring a new connector onto the temp sensor pins and loom...reckon I'll have to break away what's left of the existing plastic to make a repair easier/better. I'm having some erratic (high) idling issues and I think this may be the cause. TPS is fine. Any onther suggestions? Thanks in advance RobH

Heehee! No contest in my opinion - got to be the manual conversion. Just had mine done and it's transformed the car - what a laugh, worked out cheaper than a recon auto box too!! If you can find the bits and ask nicely, Ben Wagg (Warrington) might do the job for your for a fair price - he did mine in two weekends (!!) - feels like a good solid job too. I always kidded myself that I was happy with it being an auto but can honestly say my Z's twice the car it was. Cheers! RobH

Jack - I've had my suspicions about the pads being the wrong type. They were replaced (front pads only) for the MOT by the garage I bought it from. Not a good brand of pads - some make I'd never heard of... I'm sure I'd have noticed if it clunked when I was test driving it (they replaced the pads after test drive and before MOT). I reckon I'll try replacing them first. They're a bit knackered anyway thanks to vapourising them when flying at a roundabout ;-) Cheers! RobH

Hi All, I've had a nasty clunking noise from the front disc/caliper/wheel area when applying the brakes in reverse ever since I bought my Z 18 months ago. I've tried various things, tightening the front tie bars helped a bit but I still have a problem :-( It's as though the calipers or pads are jolting when the brakes are applied (in reverse at low speed). Is this likely/possible?? Anyone else have a similar problem/suggest a cure? Thanks in advance!! RobH

Apparently the Champion equivalent to PFR6B-11 is a '7071', a double platinum thing - according to my source. Not sure why you'd want to use them over NGK though. there's not much in it pricewise... Anyway - hope this helps. RobH

You should find it bolted to the rear of the clutch pedal box - engine side of the firewall (afaik). They're pretty expensive ($300+ from Courtesy). If you can get your hands on a master cylinder from an NA you can take the booster and hoses out (blank off the vacuum feed) - you will find the clutch pedal a bit stiffer though due to the stronger TT clutch s'pose the NA master cylinder would have a hard life too.... Cheers! RobH

Hi Chris, It's me who was asking about the alternator harness. The manual and auto items are different although could probably be bodged if anyone with good wiring skills could be bothered to spend the time doing it. Much simpler to get a replacement. The Nissan one is £210+vat though and all the s/h ones seem to have been cut to make removing other bits easier :-( I have found a source if you're stuck but it ain't cheap! You should have the necessary bits if you buy a manual breaker anyway... Cheers! RobH

Hi All, This is doing my nut in!! Some geezer's supposed to be sending me a replacement loom for my auto/man conversion. It's the last part that I need and I (and my mechanic) have been waiting for it for over 2 weeks now :-( still not been sent. I'm not convinced it ever will be - cheque went in post almost 3 weeks ago, don't think it's been cashed yet but Gnat West are offering their usual crap web service at the mo' so I can't check. Does anyone know how to adapt the loom from the auto TT to make all the electrics work with the manual? I'm sure it must be possible - anyone tried it? Failing that, anyone got a Manual one gathering dust? Or anyone in Bristol able to do me a favour and collect it and send it on for me please?? Cheers! RobH

Hmmm...I thought they were all adjustable - just inaccessible on the Z. Ahem - not that I'd contemplate contadicting you Mr.Duff

Could well be loose tie bars/torsion bars - whatever you want to call 'em. Have you changed the bushes or still on the goo filled Nissan numbers...? Cheers! RobH

Was speaking to NGK about this, they reckon there's not much to choose between Plats and Iridiums for top plugs although the Iridiums are slightly ahead in all categories. Most people splashing out on decent plugs go for the Iridiums - a few pence more but you can't get a better plug. Interestingly service intervals are different in different countries - due to driving style. USA is the best (taking the country as a whole) 100,000 kms between plug changes (55mph speed restrictions), Germany is worst 50,000 (autobahns!!) and UK is somewhere inbetween. Figures are for Iridiums. Plats should be about the same. FWIW! Cheers! RobH

Think you'd have to replace solenoids rather than repair. I had some but sent 'em back 'cos my box was past it according to the autobox place. There's some electrical resistance checks you can do, have a look at the Auto section of the online manual. Have you checked you sensor voltages?? TPS, RPM sensor etc? Cheers!

Hi All, The clutch booster which I'm fitting to my car looks different to the one in most of the diagrams I've seen. Anyone know if there's two models? I'm a bit concerened I may have the wrong part. Diagrams show the unit having a grommet fitting into a recess where the vacuum feed enters - mine has no recess and no grommet (?) Cheers! RobH

Haven't read the whole thread so may be repeating someone else here.... Have you got known good auto fluid in yer box?? I thought mine was good but when the pan came off it was burnt, black and full of bits. One of my solenoids is sticking due probably to debris. Get a reputable company to do a flush and refill for you. Some places will flush it through under pressure for you so that you replace the stuff in the torque convertor too instead of just what's in the pan. Cheers! RobH

The plugs I usually get are a BKR6-11EIX which is the PFR6-11B equivalent. Got some on the way. I'm not sure why they run a hotter plug in the states as standard. I did think it was because they had a higher grade of fuel so they could get away with it without detting but I've been told theirs is worse than ours (low RON). Maybe something to do with emissions?? NGK don't really sell Iridiums in this country. I think they'll introduce them gradually but aimed more at 4x4s initially :-\ Can't see any advantage of paying out double for HKS plugs. I'm convinced HKS won't be making their own, just getting NGK or more likely Denso to rebadge for them. Cheers! RobH

Hmm... I think I used to suffer from this. A very faint knock, seemed to come from passenger side front. It's done this for a while and now my AIVs have started to gurgle at idle - I think there may be a link, maybe a small amount of water, just enough to splash about when at low revs but not enough to gurgle at idle... I'm pretty sure it isn't detting. Didn't Jez have something like this too?? I'm gonna try the AIV 'drill a hole' fix and see if the noise goes away - when I get my car back on the road (gearbox swap). Cheers! RobH

LOL - I guess the only proof of the pudding etc... All I can say is that Iridiums work very well for me. Whoever had my car before me had some god awful copper or nickel tipped things in it. NGK and their resellers claim HP increases over plats. A mate of mine reckons that Iridium only comes from outer space - sounds like a piss take but apparently it's only found on meteors etc - LMAO! John, I reckon I can get the BKR7EIX-11 from my supplier. You'd have to have some pretty serious mods to need a grade colder in Iridium IMHO though. Posidrive, the difference is mainly the material that the central electrode tip is made from. A harder material allows it to be more precisely manufatured without having it melt so easily. Sparking in the right place on the tip and at the right time improves efficiency and therefore performance, economy etc. Also allegedly reduces detonation through improved spark timing, requires less voltage so preserves battery, loom and alternator... Cheers! RobH

I'll have a reply tomorrow hopefully, US time delay means I've gone home by the time my supplier gets round to answering. I normally receive them within three days and can send them out the next day. A week or so in total I guess... Cheers! RobH

Hmm... I feel a bit like I'm talking to myself (nothing new) - LOL Anyway, I've had second thoughts as the clutch hydraulic lines are under quite a high pressure (higher than brakes allegedly - I've been told a goodridge hose will 'blow off' - I'm not convinced but don't want to take any chances). Fortunately the flexible hose is available from UK stock so no wait :-) I can get the metal clutch line made up from standard brake pipe. Any comments about the servo vacuum pipes would still be welcome though... Cheers!!

Hi All, I'm having a bit of trouble locating any clutch servo circuit hoses with good price and availability. There are five of them and they run from the intake manifold balance tube to a couple of vacuum tanks, a 3 way connector and check valve to the clutch booster. Can anyone suggest any reasons not to use standard pipe such as 8mm fuel hose which seems to be of similar construction but is a bit more flexible. Anyone got any data for the sort of vacuum created in the inlet manifold? If I knew what sort of vacuum the pipe needed to withstand I think I'd be able to source appropriate hose. At the other end of the clutch circuit I'm short of the flexible hose that connects the slave cylinder and the metal hydraulic line that connects it to the brass block in the clutch hydraulic circuit. Any reason why this can't be made from a length of goodridge hose and a section of copper brake line?? Could the entire length be made from goodridge hose or is it subject to too much heat due to the vicinity of the turbo?? TIA for any help! RobH

I'm just about to put an order in from a guy in the US. Should have some within the week. NGK Iridium IXs. I put 'em in mine and thought they were great. Big improvement, especially if you're not already using Platinum plugs. £50 including Special Delivery. LMK if interested.

Hi All, To anyone who's looking for Z32 manual gearboxes for a conversion job, www.japaneseautos.co.uk (01995 605181) reckon they have a few manual boxes for about £200 - £300 - bargain, you could afford an overhaul too. They also have some imported gearboxes with warranty. If this is't 100% true please don't shoot the messenger :-\ I just came across them while I was trying to find some clutch servo hoses and check valve - BTW, anyone have these spare?? Cheers! RobH

Hmm... My PTU cost me $178.45 about 10 months ago and fedex $43.85 (I had an oil switch on the order too) You can have a bash at repairing it yourself or at least checking if that's the problem. Use a dremel type cutting tool to carefully cut the back open and see if you can gently lift the terminals off the posts - if you can it's b*ggered. The two main posts will stop it running and the individual cylinders will cause a misfire/dead cylinder. You can solder the terminals back on using some aluminium solder and a very hot soldering iron. Don't breathe the gas, I did and felt sick as a dog - something to do with having Hydrochloric acid for flux :-( As already mentioned, if you're using a series 1 you're on borrowed time anyway. Ben Wagg may have an up to date price as he's just ordered one. Cheers! RobH

YGM!