RobH

It is possible that if you've been experiencing some detonation your plug electrodes or insulators could be damaged or have a 'hot spot' form - I guess this could then lead to a misfire. Might be worth checking the gaps. I think most people on here go for 0.8-0.9mm with a standard platinum. Should be fine running up to 1.1mm with an Iridium. If the gaps to large you'll get a misfire - too small and you get a weak spark. HTH! RobH

Hi James, I came to the conclusion that it needs to be done in between IAA and Air regulator. Rather than relying on the test which I wasn't too confident about, I removed the Air reg, IAA etc and gave the whole lot a thorough clean and inspection. Although the manual specifies the test I couldn't find a 'real' reference to it... It all looked pretty good but I have a feeling my main prob was the electrical connector on the Air regulator - cleaned up the contacts, reassembled and idle improved somewhat. I reset the base idle and it's now stable-ish. I think I still have some air leaks in the turbo/intake system which ain't helping... BTW - removing the Air reg is a huge PITA!! Cheers! RobH

OK - so I've replaced the Drivers side turbo intake hose - not too bad a job really, took about 2 hours including a couple of other bits and checking a load of other hoses while I was at it. One point of note - the turbo outlet (metal pipe) held on by a short length of rubber hose with hose clips was seriously loose, a real tw*t to get it tight - wonder how many are driving around blissfully unaware of this...Don't think it was leaking but could do under high boost I reckon. Cheers! RobH

I hit a kerb with my rear end in a semi spin and manged to bend a track rod end and the rear passenger side wishbone - replaced both bits and it was straight again. Probably best to get the front sorted and see if it handles ok again - if not it's prob worth taking a look at these bits too. My rear passenger wheel was toeing in quite noticeably. RobH

Wha..? Adam - what's up with Chester - have I missed something...? What's this brain sucking about?

Hmm...I've got the part on order from AndyZ - I'd rather do it properly, the position of the split means gaffer tape won't be easy to use and prob not 100% effective. I'd like to get the upper turbo hose off too as I have my suspicions about this also.. If anyone has done this previously and has any tips (apart from 'don't do it' ;)) PLMK! Thanks RobH

I don't know if the standard listed torque is insufficient - I haven't got a decent torque wrench or done the maths, but if it's 'thumping' when the brakes are applied and the bolts through the bushes can be tightened more (generally as tight as Mr average can get with a decent sized wrench) then it will almost certainly solve the problem... If you haven't got a problem then yours are tight enough - if you have there's a very good chance tightening will cure it. Cheers!

I think that's a different prob Dave. I had that one too after I'd had poly bushes fitted. Mechanics in general don't seem to comprehend how much torquing the tie bars need. You probably get more of a thump than a clunk and you'll probably feel it too...mine current clunk is simply annoying. You literally need to put all your weight on a good long torque wrench to get em tight enough...Andy Duff'll tell you. Cheers!

OK - Deano, if you're reading I'm sure I know what it is now... Checked the pads today (finally) either they're the wrong pads or just cheap sh*te. There is a small amount of cleareance between pad and caliper at eithr end of the pad. The holes in the pads through which the pins are inserted are oval rather than round - presume 'cos the pads are cheap sh*te and not up to the power and weight of the Z... Apply brakes going forward - no probs as the pads are hard up against the caliper. Apply in reverse and they have enough play to wallop the back/top of the caliper :( Going to replace front pads, hopefully next w/e cash and parts permitting. I've found a source for Ferodo 'track day' pads which are s'posed to be very good on the street - anyone got any views on these? Cheers! RobH

Just make sure the rad's fully bled when you're filling it (bleed scew on the LHS at the top - fill on level ground). Might be worth running the aircon on full for a few minutes first as I believe a lot of air gets trapped in there...

Oh lordy! Thanks guys. I guess that may explain why I'm detting again - while there was a hose off on the boost side it was probably evening up the air/fuel ratio somewhat. Cheers!

Hi Andrew - have you checked your coolant? There's a good chance of an air pocket being trapped where the temp sensor is.. I've had hesitation due to this in the past.

Hi All, Found a couple of boost leaks today, one easy, one not so easy:( It's the lower turbo hose which has split - the one with the ribbed/flexi section. I'm assuming this is the outlet side (?) Three questions: 1. Is it possible to replace this hose with engine in place? 2. This is a moderate split, not huge, am I right in thinking this will mean drop in boost pressure, running lean off boost and running rich on boost? 3. Is there an aftermarket replacement part available (Smithy?) - dreading the Nissan price. Still getting some detonation - especially now I've cured one of my boost leaks (not running as rich now I guess). Had a new fuel filter 2000 miles ago, assume pump is OK, cooling system seems ok although I can't seem to get rid of 'orange coolant' syndrome. Running under 0.9 bar. Cheers! RobH

Sorry to hijack you thread Vijay - didn't want to add another boost leak thread... I've got a 'schwoosh' noise immediately when going off throttle/boost at low speed - presume I get it at higher speed too but can't hear it - sounds like boost pressure being dumped to atmosphere (no I haven't got dump valves) - does this indicate any particular area for a likely boost leak? seems to be drivers side around front wheel arch - intercooler?? I'm pretty sure that my 'goosehonk' which is more of a 'bottle top blow' is emanating from there too...I know I should just get on my back and have a poke at it but I have very limited work time/space... The pressure's prob escaping while on throttle/boost but not noticeable as it sounds like constant/background engine noise... Any advice appreciated RobH

Hi Vijay, it's me who's struggling to pressurise my intake system. Are you using a cr*ppy tyre inflator type compressor like I am? I've found I need to put more air in more quickly than my compressor can manage, still trying to find a better compressor to use... It's gotta be worth putting some soapy water about around the joints to see if you can blow any bubbles - I reckon that's gotta be a better bet than listening for leaks - easier to see than hear where it's coming from (apart from in those hard to reach places...) Cheers! RobH

Mark/Aaron, does the cable disconnect from the sensor? (I'm not in a position to check at the mo) or is it a 'cut and solder' job. From what I saw of my cable last night it could be part of the problem. It's not really damaged but does look like it's been exposed to a lot of heat. Seems a bit of an odd arrangement - looks like it has some kind of 'noise shielding' around it too. Cheers RobH

ok - pm me your address and I'll dig it out tomorrow.. Cheers, RobH

Cheers Aaron, I'll be saving up for a 1MOhm resistor then...;)

I've got my old repaired series I which is known to work. You can borrow that if you're stuck and no one nearby has one.. Cheers RobH

Hi Lee, very big job apparently. I think it may be possible with the plenum removed but may be an engine out job - biggie which ever way you look at it :( Cheers! RobH

Hi All, I've just checked the resistances of the det sensor and its ECU connector. Det sensor is reading 0.533 Mega Ohms rather than 1Mega Ohm as expected - I suppose it may just be completely sh*gged but if not, will the lower resistance make it more or less sensitive to det noise? ECU resistances are OK. I'm using an AVC-R so safety boost is no longer possible but from recent posts it appears my ignition may be being retarded which is making my engine run hot due to the high AVC-R controlled boost - this is making things worse and accelerating the detting from what I can gather...surely bypassing the det sensor in my situation can't make things worse but can improve things...? Any suggestions gratefully received. RobH

LOL - not if you're me Steve! I'm terrified of putting my head under a car on stands... Thanks for all the input.. RobH

Steve, I got a boost leak 'dummy' from Vijay and had a go with it over the weekend, very useful - problem is that I think the leak is so big the system holds no pressure or it's escaped as soon as I turn off my cr*ppy compressor - need more air more quickly. That would kind of explain why I'm detonating badly at high revs sometimes - running hot on high boost when ecu thinks there's no boost - very interesting! I'm using the AVC-R's built in gauge. All pipes have been checked as good for that part of the circuit. I've repaired the engine temp sensor connector recently but I'm not convinced by the job, I'll have another look tonight. Det sensor circuit all looked ok yesterday. Don't get me wrong - the car is mental as it is, I just feel it should be more mentallerer..er. ;) and shouldn't be detting like it is... Cheers!

Somebody mentioned a noise like 'blowing over the top of a bottle' the other day. I have always preferred this description for my 'honk' rather than goosehonk - goosehonk suggests a raucous, rough noise whereas mine is very soft and smooth (ooer my noise that is) Anyone know if there is a difference in the two noises/problems/symptoms? Anyone heard the two and able to discriminate between them?? Cheese!

Steve, thanks for the input. I'm running about 0.9 bar but TBH it's a bit erratic - sometimes won't make 0.9 on the setting I'm using - maybe due to boost leak getting worse with engine temp. I've done the diagnostics and get 55. I guess if I get some detonation and then the timing gets retarded it may explain why the car sometimes feels a bit sluggish at high revs but next day it flies... My coolant is a nasty orange colour - I've drained, flushed refilled at least ten times in the last year and it's still murky...dunno if it's not cooling properly. So it looks like I have two probs (and the rest!!) boost leaks sapping my power and detonation erm...sapping my power. If I fix the boost leaks I'm gonna get more detonation until I can cure that one too! Maybe I'll look at the detonation first... Cheers...