Maz

oh..and just remembered...it´s never done that when the car is cold..always after it´s been driven abit and the engine is warm...could be coincidence though. :)

:( this used to happen once in a blue moon, but now it seems to be becoming more frequent. On turning the key the check lights come on, i can hear the pump do it´s thing briefly but that´s about it..no clicking or turning of the starter...the dash lights don´t get dimmer like a power drain..just nothing what so ever. I read something about aftermarket alarms causing stuff like this..but my alarm isn´t hooked up to the immobilizer--never has been. any ideas would be greatly appreciated cheers Maz

ah..Celle..way over there in the "east" ..Like 350km from where I am ..here on the border to Holland. Let us know if I can be of any help while you´re over here mate. Maz

Hey Lee Whereabouts in Germany ?..there´s a guy over here (Germany) breaking a Z on Ebay, could ask the price for the headlights for you if you like Maz

cheers Zeegy, Paul Not quite the answer i was hoping for, but at least I know the score now. Any idea if the newer belts are just mounted differently i.e in a different place or are they different fullstop ? Maz

Hi I´ve got a 2 seater coupe with the safetybelts mounted in the doors, I´m not sure if this is normal but i can pull on them, jerk them and even brake hard and the seatbelt still extends with no opposition at all. All the other automatic belts i know would lock under one of the above scenarios.does this on both belts, is this normal ? cheers Maz

hey stu for starters it´s impossible to tell what width of tyre will fit on the rim from the info you´ve given ...look on the rim , should have a marking like " 8.5 J ..or 9.0 J etc ...from that you can assertain which tyres will fit on them. As for Tyres, personally if I had almost brand new Yokohamas on the front I´d go for Yokohamas on the rear too :)

"I wish i could read what he has to say though" It doesn´t really say that much...all the long text is on about is how good a condition the car is in, that it has stainless steel exhaust and headers, is still restricted to 190kmh and that it was reistered in the UK up until April 2007 and that he/she still has all the paperwork. Only negative thing was the rear spoiler (original one ) is lifting off ( surprise , surprise ) but that the car comes with a new after market one not yet attached. Tyres are not yet a year old and the air conditioning was refilled Mai 07. No rust whatsoever . Other than that there´s the obvious: 17 inch rims, lowered, leathers, ..also says the targa roofs are 100% water tight. :)

yeah Quavey..I know...but i did actually mean at the fly wheel as opposed to the rear wheels...honestly,,,could these eyes lie ? *g*

ok. my mistake,,sort of ...300 at the Fly WHEEL ..not at the rear Wheels :)

Not sure where to post this one,,,just noticed a right hand drive Jap spec NA for sale on ebay ..here in Germany ..which i´m guessing won´t sell for too much being right hand drive...but it looks nice with some nice interior parts http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=320147309824&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=011 Just thought i´d point it out...seeing as Germany´s not too far to drive to :)

*gestures* to the US TT manual in the barn ....yep..US has 300 at the wheel ....manual version that is *grin*

attempis to decypher: You have a new 96 TT and want to chip the ECU to stage III. a: you can´t figure out how to chip it b: You´re under the impression that you may have to swap it for an older ECU to obtain your goal ( why I have no idea ) and C; you´d like to know if it is a lot of work and if alot needs to be changed on the old ECU Did I get that right ?

isn´t it 286 for the European TT manual and 300 for the US TT manual and a bit less for both automatics..something like that.

18 months for a repair!!!??..what did you do, take a shock absorber in and ask them to build a new car around it ?? Wow!!! amazing !

"It would still look like the first one, only it would sprint like the second one......and the sprinting isn't the determining factor in this one" so a 300ZX non performance car ...that´s a bit like a Lamborghini countach kit car with a VW 1300 engine ....I think I´d prefer the VW beetle with the Porsche 911 engine in it ...l agree with Si..it´s defeating the object of driving a Z...just my 2 pence worth :)

"Don't listen to people telling you to decat either mate." I´ve seen that often enough myself ..de-catting the exhaust and then having turbo / seal problems ....but out of interest ,is it worth chipping the Z, adding a cone filter and leaving the stock exhaust system ..i.e do you notice a difference ? Maz

hey chewie The transmission model is RS5R30A. The 300ZX model is the same for both the NA and TT, but Nissan relocated the starter in the TT, and changed the outer and inner front cases. 1st 3.214 2nd 1.925 3rd 1.302 4th 1.000 5th 0.752 Reverse 3.369

Jay, have you done any work on the gauge cluster ? I had exactly the same problem when swapping my gauge cluster over from US to European (German) spec ..I´m not sure though what exactly caused that problem as i ended up having to swap so much over including the rear curcuit board...but the problem seems identical..I thought at the time it was an earth problem on the guage / cluster itself.

does the needle go down gradually ...kind of in tandem with you accelerating ..i.e the higher the revs go ( when driving ) the lower the needle starts to sink...and as soon as you stop accelerating it starts to rise again ?

I had problems switching my US cluster to a German one..i.e from a 160MPH cluster to a 280KMH one ...i found that not only were some of the warning lights were in different places and instead of the immobilzer security light flashing I had the "doors open" light flashing instead.I also found that the curcuit board on the back are different too ..Not sure if it´s the same with the UK cluster but I found the easiest and best way was to disassemble both clusters and put the individual instruments from the Euro spec into the US housing. Not sure if that applies to UK ones ..so not sure if this is of any help at all mate . :)

yep..i agree ..but i just thought that if you wanted to add black then carbon fibre looks better than just painting it black...looks more high tech and has a nice shine to it too..just my opinion ...but you´re right ..i wouldn´t add an OEM looking carbon fibre hood for anything else but the optic :)

my opinion, for what it´s worth ...keep the A pillar white and if you want some black then add a black carbon fibre hood and centre panel :)

hey Munny Twin Turbo ? ...what does the boost gauge say at the time ..i.e when you feel this "wall" ..does it appear to be drifting in and out of safe mode ?

"shame about no cruise buttons though, "hijack" can the buttons be located somewhere else, do quite abit on the motorway and its great, dont really wanna loose it´" How about using a Boss that has cruise control buttons on it ..fitted and worked perfectly for me :)