Maz

hey everyone I have a strong smell of fuel after accelerating . I have replaced all the fuel pipes in the engine bay icluding the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel dampner. I have replaced the fuel filter and also the valve on the underside of the car (swb tt ) under the driver side seat (LHD) and checked all the fuel lines there but I still cant find the cause. does anyone have any other ideas of where to check ? As always. any help is greatly appreciated cheers Maz

Cheers for that mate. Sorry I didn´t reply quicker but I´ve been dismanteling the Z , eventually taking the gearbox off to get to the hose. I think i should have the hose Problem under control , Need to Change a few more actually. Problem I have now is sourcing some exhaust hangers "rubber Mounts" (all of them) for a halfway reasonable Price. In the US they cost about 17 pounds, but they want around 53 Pounds for postage. Over here in Germany the postage is obviously a lot cheaper, but for the 4 rear Mounts alone they are asking 72 Pounds. There must be a cheaper Option......any ideas there mate? Kind regards

Hi One of my water pipes has burst (fortunately while the engine was hot, but not running) Not only does it appear to be a seriously difficult hose to get to, I,m having difficulties identifying which hose it is in the parts diagram. when looking from underneath the car, up between the engine and the bulkhead you can see a small water hose that connects to the left Hand side Turbo. Does anyone have any idea which hose it is on the parts diagram, or what the part number is? As always, any help is greatly appreciated. Maz

Hi jaffa No, i don´t have the carbon canister anymore, did the delete a while ago. The Problem I am having is a very strong smell of Petrol from that vicinity. I changed the valve a few years ago but was only able to get a EURO Version which had the Connections more like the fuel filter ( top and bottom) and therefor I had to bend the piping to fit it. Was thinking that maybe the Tension is too much and the hoses have slipped, or Clip Needs tightening. Just wanted to either get the correct one, or delete completely as the smell is quite intense as soon as you roll the window down. Maz

Cheers Jeff You don#t by any Chance have one for sale do you? Failing that, am i okay to remove/Bypass the valve ? Maz

Hi Does anyone know what exactly the function of the check valve assmbly , connected to the fuel line and located on the underside of the car is for? I´m guessing on a RHD car it is located in the same place as on a LHD car so for a RHD car on the underside between passenger seat and rear wheel arch. (SWB!) The assembly Looks like this: It´s been causing me Problems and getting a replacement is proving impossible , so I was wondering if it was just a cut off valve incase I flip the car and can I get rid of it, or does it serve some other purpose. As always, any help greatly appreciated. Maz

cheers for that phutumsch But to be quite honest with you, i,m not exactly sure what I.m looking at on the photo...is that the underside of the Switch "box" , with the modification being the small rectangular cut out in the Center ?

Ah, right...I guess I will have to modify them to light up :o) cheers for that Guys @ Phutumsh " They´re actually not doing too bad this season.....apart from loosing the last two games......against Hanover *shakes* his head Maz

Hi everyone....long time... A quick and simple one : The Buttons behind the ashtray for electric mirrors, Suspension Setting (US model ) etc. Are they normally illuminated when the dash lights are on ? Cheers Maz

Sorted Sorry about the huge delay, but I had to destroy the engine on the wifes car before i could start on the Z. Redwine, you were spot on mate, Changed the Air Regulator Valve and the revs now drop to around 750 -800 rpm. Thanks for all your assistance, it´s greatly appreciated. :o)

Redwine Thank you for an excellent description of the workings of the Air Regulator valve and the air control valve, for the first time I actually understand what each part does, spot on mate! Replacement parts are on their way (hopefully) will Keep you posted on Progress/ outcome and again, thanks alot, it´s much appreciated. :)

Okay I can´t tell you if the connector is giving off 14 Volts when the engine is running as I took the Balance bar off for easier access to the Air Regulator Valve. I can tell you that the resistance of the valve is 0 ohm, in fact the multimeter Shows me it´s a closed circuit.

Understood mate :) Will take a look as soon as possible. Injured my Hand this morning taking a boat off a Trailer and puting it into the water. As soon as I can move my thumb properly again (probably wednesday when I have a day off work) I´ll check the Air Regulator valve and get back to you. Thanks for the help , much appreciated

Ah, okay..I´ll leave that one alone then I did check the resistance and at first the readings were all over the place , not suprisingly though as the contacts were completely oxidized. Cleaned them up and got a steady ready of around 10 ohm. Probably do Need to take a closer look / replace the IAA valve as I had an issue with it before taking a while to drop to 750 RPM when stopping at traffic lights etc.

Cheers mate "New gaskets" plural ?, as in there´s more than just the main IAA Gasket i´ll Need ?

Thanks for the excellent description of what the individual parts actually do mate , very helpful indeed I will take a look at the Auxillary air valve and check the resistance, I´m guessing I might Need to remove and clean / replace the IAA unit. Thanks for the help :)

redwine which connector are you refering to, the connector on the "side" of the IAA ? i.e the one you would have to pull out "sideways" as opposed to "up" like the yellow connector ?

That is one Thing I haven´t checked yet. Not sure how that could have changed after a 200km trip all of a sudden, but you are right, I Need to check the voltage on the TPS still .

redwine I did the base idle Thing, this brought the idle down from 1500-1600 rpm to 1100 - 1200 rpm, the screw won´t go in any further.

yes I have mate. Did an ECU fault code check, checked the ECU temp Sender, TPS , Throttle boddies, No boost leaks (anymore) either . When I disconnect the IAA connector there is no Change, not even a slight drop, no difference between connected and disconnected .

okay I cleaned the IAA connector and now have about 10 ohms of resitance as specified. I let the engine run and warm up , it idles at about 1500 when cold and Drops to around 1100-1200 on idle when warm. Looks like White smoke from the exhaust and smells like fuel. No noticeable power loss either.

I have a high idle, around 1300 - 2000 rpm. have checked most things and the IAA unit was Kind of the last Thing after eliminating the other possibilities. I just cleaned the connector to the IAA and measuresd the resistance across the poles and it´s all over the place, from 0 Ohm to 24 ohm and constantly changing, which leads me to believe the IAA unit is shot.

Nice one mate Cheers for that :)

Hi when I remove the IAA (Air Idle Control Valve)connector and measure the resistance across the "poles" of the IAA unit, should there be a steady resistance there, and if so, what should the resistance be? :o) Maz

spot on Madallion man, z32Bolt checked the hose that runs from the Sender unit to the T-pipe and found it had half snapped off the t-pipe. Changed the hose and now she´s showing normal boost again. Now only the high rev issue, but I´m on that. Thanks alot guys, much appreciated. Maz