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Hi I need a new rad for my Manual NA, is a Manual TT rad a straight fit or does it require modification THanks in advance for any help

Hi I need a new rad for my Manual NA, is a Manual TT rad a straight fit or does it require modification THanks in advance for any help

Glad its all working again, from what I have seen so far the 180 on your original speedo would have been KPH so you have the equivalent in MPH now, you only ended up with the 180 MPH speedo because of the converter I have only seen what I assume was a UK speedo rather than a JDM and that only went to 160 MPH I am working on info from the few Z32's that I have seen having only had mine a couple months Pleased you have solved the problem, your MOT or equivalent should now be a formality, the position of your old rear fog switch seems to be a popular choice as the animal that fitted mine decided that was a good place also

If I remember correctly when the converter is initially fitted one of the tracks on the flexible circuit on the back of the gauge unit has to be broken so the signal can go through the converter, that connection needs to be remade when the converter is removed, if the converter has a manufacturers name on it you could obtain the original wiring diagram for installation and see which track or tracks were interrupted.

If you have fitted the dial face that you posted a picture of in this post then you do need to remove your converter, the standard JDM KPH dial reads to 180Kph so needs the converter whereas your replacement only goes to 110 in MPH roughly 180KPH, I had the same issue with the speedo on my GTO Hope that helps Regards Marc

Having thought more about it, I think it best to totally remove the AIV system so does anyone know if the BM catalyst downpipes Part Numbers BM70331 & BM70332 will fit my 1990 Z32 NA SWB I have asked the manufacturers and they required the Vin Number and when I supplied it they told be It did not have sufficient digits, mine has 9 and they require 11 Many thanks everyone

Hi Jeff Followed your suggestion and your link in your last post and thought I would remove the electrical connection to the AIV solenoid as a first step, you were absolutely spot on, removed that connector and then started the car and no noise, let it warm up as the noise seemed to increase as the temp went up and still no noise, so I think we can safely say that has solved the issue. I am in two minds as to whether to remove the whole AIV system or not, the car desperately requires a new exhaust system as the present one fitted by Nissan in 1990 has been patched in various places over the years to get it through the MOT i'm guessing, being a SWB from the conversations I have had I am unlikely to be able to obtain a used Stainless one although I presume that would be the ideal time to remove all the unnecessary pipework. Anyway many thanks Jeff for the diagnosis a weight off my mind

Thanks for the replies, It makes no difference if the brake pedal is depressed, when you increase the revs its still just audible to about 2000 Rpm but then the volume of the engine sound makes it very difficult to know if the engine is drowning it out or if it has disappeared, it sort of sounds metallic to me hence the concern, I will get underneath and see if there is anything loose, I know sound travels in very strange ways but it really does sound if its coming from behind the dash Any further thoughts from anyone gratefully received

For some reason video ling did not upload https://vimeo.com/269342630

Hi All My N/A 300ZX Z32 JDM Manual has developed a strange noise when engine is running, it sounds like its coming from behind the dash but I have had the speedo binnacle and the clocks out and cant seem to pinpoint what it is or where it is coming from, it is difficult to hear in the engine compartment so I am at a loss. I have done a short video of the noise if anyone recognises it could they please let me know, its really annoying but more importantly is it the prelude to a serious problem Any help would be great, it does not appear to affect the performance but having not had the car long I don't know if its present performance is as it should be Just a bit afraid of using it in case it's a serious issue Many Thanks in anticipation

Hi Gaz Mine arrived today many thanks Best Regards Marc

Hi have bought a Z that's a lot worse than I thought if anyone has any of the following please let me know Many Thanks All Items are for a SWB NA Stainless Exhaust system Steering Rack Trim for top RH corner of tailgate glass Trim for both ends of centre section of T Bar Trim Cover for Door only visible when window is down (both doors) Trim cover for seat belt mounting at top of door (both sides) Rear trim panel that holds third brake light Rear internal boot trim that covers where tail lights & centre garnish are Front Bumper I would like the trim that covers the radio and the bit that goes to the arm rest, but hopefully another member advertising parts who I have messaged still has these, I have attached photo's of the area's missing bit to try and clarify Any help gratefully received Thanks again regards Marc

I am working on the replacement rod carrier for the lock barrel, can anyone post up a picture of the rod (with dimensions if possible) that fits on the lock barrel going to the part that locks/unlocks the door as this part is missing and I will have to try & manufacture something to replace it. Also can anyone recommend a supplier of exhaust systems that are not going to be more than the cost of the car, also boot is getting wet and I have traced it to a crack in the panel that holds the third brake light, its cracked right through so I need a replacement are they difficult to source ? fortunately the previous owner kept in under cover so the boot floor, wheel well & under the tool kit is all solid, but I dont want the boot to get wet Thanks again everyone

Hi Alic there is no plastic part on the back of the barrel and there is no connecting rod from the rear latch that would be able to be attached to the plastic part (if I had one) and the key will rotate the barrel almost a full turn so I'm assuming like everything else I have come across in this car the broken parts have just been removed and thrown in the bin I have had a look at the link and I assume that the larger hole with the two slots goes over the back of the key barrel, I cant tell if that's what is missing as there is just nothing there at all, presumably the other hole requires one of those plastic snap over clips to hold the metal rod that connects to the lock. I will email them to see if they would send to the UK, I have also looked at the link that Gaz 300 posted, can't find any electrical connectors so I'm thinking that my car has never had that large white plastic surrond that controls the Key Hole light and the factory alarm system which I assume my car would also never been fitted with, hopefully you can fit the part to take the rod without the support of the white plastic surround.

Well another day on the Z and it just keeps coming, drivers door will not open on the key, (to much faffing around & run the battery flat so no remote locking) have removed the door card only to find that there is nothing on the back of the lock barrel, I assume that there should be a metal bar of some sort & some way of attaching that to the end of the barrel & presumably the bar should attach to the internal door lever somehow, anyway that's all missing and the cast handle has been bodged, so if anyone knows of or has those missing parts or a complete drivers O/S door handle I would be delighted to hear from them. The only way into the car was through the passenger door as the lock on the tailgate does not work on the key either (always been opened from the switch by the drivers seat previously) I will investigate as time permits, would be nice to get just one job complete. Any help or advice gratefully received Best Regards Marc

That's a shame, I would imagine that the centre panel lit up looks pretty good, been looking at previous posts on this thread and would be interested to know from art213 if you have any spacers on those 350Z wheels as they look really good and fill the arches nicely, also what size tyres you are running ? look good with the white paintwork too. I have another day on the car tomorrow weather permitting before going back to the grind so will update then

Did not even know the 300ZX part of the rear panel lit up will have to look into that once all the ordinary faults are put right, Yes AndrewG that is the very item, I have not seen any warning lights on the dash, I ran a patch lead from the N/S rear light lamp plug to the O/S rear lamp skt and the O/S bulbs do light, so I am assuming that the box in your photo is at fault, if anyone has such a thing please let me know. As far as the switch on the tailgate latch is concerned, there is no boot light on my car and the interior light does not work (its on the list), so possibly it will control that, I will report back on that, can't believe how the electrics on this car have been mucked about with there are wires all over the place probably from a previous alarm instal i'm guessing.

Thanks to everyone for their reply's, the 3rd brake light is now fixed (bulbs Replaced) however I have not got any rear side lights on the offside and from what I can see there is no power to them, but front side lights(thanks Alic) now work as I have repaired the wiring connections which had been attached using the "twist & tape) method but are now soldered & heat shrunk, rear number plate lights work & nearside tail lights work, there is a black box with a multipoint connector behind the O/S rear boot trim that the wires go into but I have no idea what it is or what it does so if anyone has one or knows what it does I would be grateful and I figure that a replacement should hopefully solve the problem. Thanks to RichieK please let me know if you have got any exhaust parts you are prepared to part with, the problems with this car seem to be coming thick and fast ! There is a electrical connection on the tailgate latch which I assume is connected to the interior light but confirmation would be helpful, there appear to be no end of snap together electrical connectors of the splicing blade type and a lot of "twist & tape" connections that I am soldering together and shrink wrapping as I come across them, seems to be a lot of amateur electrics done on it. If I don't reply speedily please forgive me as I don't seem to be able to set the thread to notify replies Thanks again everyone, will now go back out to the car and carry on

Thanks for the advice Alic, if you have a rack available in March then please let me know, as I fear that getting the other bits sorted out will take a little time with my limited knowledge and I would presume that a MOT tester will take a dim view of the steering rack & exhaust in their present condition as the car only has 2 days MOT remaining (just enough to get it home) if anyone is aware of a good condition exhaust system for sale I would be most grateful, I have noticed this morning that the centre brake light only partially illuminates so Im hoping that that will just be a bulb replacement, I intend to remove the fog lights to check out the bulbs, it does not appear obvious how they are secured to the bumper, do I get to them by removing the indicator units ? I would also like to thank everyone for your help & information

Car is a 1990 Manual NA SWB, is the difference on the steering racks just number of turns lock to lock or is it the response when turning the wheel ? also would it do any harm if I had a TT rack fitted to my NA car

Thanks for the reply Alic, excuse the ignorance but how do i ensure the throttle is completely closed ? also have you any recommendations as to where to source a steering rack, and also a favourable place for a exhaust system, I will check the door height tomorrow and the order in which the lights come on, although I could not see any other illumination at the front of the car other than the fog lights when the light switch was in the sidelight position, is there more than one bulb holder in the fog lamp housing or should there be another lamp on the front that houses the sidelight bulb ? Thanks again for the reply

Thank you to everyone for the kind wishes, Initial issues appear to be very high idle 12-1300 rpm does not matter if its cold or at running temp, o/s steering rack gator looks newish but is pumping out fluid, exhaust is by the look of it possibly original to the car as its steel paper thin and very rusty and blowing front and middle, back boxes are the most robust of the lot but still not up to much, and extremely loud, the oil pressure gauge reads 4 bar at idle, but is under 2 bar when at 3000 rpm when driving although there are no strange noises that I can hear but the exhaust maybe masking any one of the front fog lights is rotten inside and appear to be used as side lights (I dont know if that is how all these cars are wired). The drivers door will shut perfectly one time and the next time you shut it, it bounces off the shut and the tailgate fall on your head if you are not ready for it (bruise on head to prove this) which I presume is a common problem , there is damage to the drivers seat squab and bolster, on the plus side it did a 5 1/2 hour journey home without overheating and the underneath, spare wheel well, under the foam tool tray, sills and rear arches are not full of holes. Trouble is I thought it looked pretty and that was enough to sell it to me, will take some photo's tomorrow if it stops snowing and see what other problems I can find, still whatever I find I still like the look of it. Thanks again for the good wishes Regards Marc

Hi Just purchased today a Z32 300ZX lots of niggles to sort out perhaps when I have made a list someone may have some suggestions on the remedies for which I would be grateful have wanted one for a long time but its turns out even with the buyers guide my enthusiasm may have got the better of me, but at least I finally have one.