Paul C

LOL!! does that mean when you crank the engine over on the starter it will kill the injector/coil pack supply then?? ;)

I took mine apart & soldered up a dodgy connector, cleaned the contacts in the relays & it works fine now:)

Wide Open Throttle :)

leave them to Macca ;) :D

you would only want it on at WOT i would imagine.

i had this, it was the anti squeel shims broken up & rubbing on the disc

do you mean its running all the time, ie at idle, or does it just cut in at higher revs?? at what speed does the engine die. your not trying to switch it on from idle or anything are you??? ie with the throttle shut.

ok, make sure they are aware of this bullitin (fom andyp's site) as the upper arms may still be within tolerence. and with the rack - look here , the wear is most likely in the tie rod ball joints on either side of the rack which are seperate items it would seem. pull back the rack boot to see if the play is indeed these joints or actually wear in the rack gear itself. good luck!! :)

erm, like what i said in my post??? :confused: ;)

bargain!! :cool:

nice pink caliper Stu!!! :D

the pressure reading is overall pressure. 1 bar is fine IMO - just make sure you have an upgraded chip in the ECU or you could be underfuelling at higher pressures. is that on the standard gauge or do you have an additional boost gauge - the stock one in the dash is very inaccurate. it shouldnt effect lag at all - all it does is up the pressure the wastegate opens at.

i know the ones you mean, & no iv not had any problems ;) but - i guess you could remove the stud - drill out where it goes & either tack weld a new stud in or if theres room, fit a bolt through from the other side (inside the wing) again this could be tack welded from the inside to stop it turning when you fit your nice shiney new 99 front bumper :D :cool:

rear camber is adjustable - front is not!! if the front camber is out of spec & you want to adjust it, there is a camber adjuster kit available which brings the top arm out to reduce negative camber if that is the problem, or you can get replacement adjustable upper arms. you need to have a 4 wheel alignment done 1st to see what the problem is. ;)

yea, the gas creates a sheild to get a good weld gasless migs use fluxed core wire to get the same effect. not as good imo

look here for traction control. its a race bred system that will improve performance including adjustable slip control & launch control. it also makes it safer - trust me, its a wise investment, esp when modded (trust me - i learnt the hard way :( )

DEFINATLY get traction control ;) as andy says - weve got a group buy going on so you can save a few quid too :)

a decent boost gauge is a must if upping boost pressures. i got mine with replacement A piller trim with holder from Smithy on here. turbo timers is a matter of personal preference really - i like to just drive sensibly for a few miles after a bit of a rip as for the in car boost adjuster - its called your right foot!!! ;) :D

unless youre lucky enough to have an Aug 95 > zed, it doesnt need to pass a cat test as there not in the emissions database. it just needs to pass the pre cat test (3.5% co 1200ppm HC)

LMAO!! looks like mine!! (until i put nice shiney new bits on ;) :D )

i too req that option please waz!! :D other than that, its just PTU failure.

yea, im sure the later types are smaller?? like stu says - its for the 99 front end

anyone know exactly?? went to order with my no plate supplier & they asked if i knew what size they should make it to?? FFS!! :rolleyes:

Steps ;) :D

harry moss head unit with 2x 2.5w amstrad 2 1/4" door speakers kickin' :D