Tutis

Now for the next steps. 1) New wheels 2) Replace rear spoiler as it is cracked and is now leaking in the boot 3) Paint the moustache and mirror surrounds black as it is supposed to be

Hi all, just wanted to take a moment to thank Jimmer for getting my zed back on the road. He did a fantastic job sourcing a donor block and rebuilding bit by bit. All complimented by nismo 740cc injectors, new loom and new cores for turbos. Was a long day driving it back from Bristol to Aberdeen, but well worth it. Very knowledgeable man, would recommend to anyone and will definatelly going back again. Photos to follow tomorrow before everyone starts asking 😂

Thanks guys, will look into both

Hi all, looking for a battery tender suggestions.

To be honest not sure which series. Aircon controls are newer series with no outside temperature, injectors are still old style.

I think it actually changed at some point in 1993 for JDM as my 1993 jdm NA has seatbelts in pillars.

That applies to JDM only. UK models had seatbelts on pillars from the start.

G4 Aberdeen

http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2616355/Recaro-Sportster-CS-Nismo-Edition-Seats.html thats the route i would go if money was no concern, i understand this route can be taken with any recaro seat

Anything can fit with a bit of bending, cutting, welding and drilling. I think bmw seats would look way out of place in a z32. I think finding decent second hand ones would be a the best option. If you insist on different seats. Try looking for cheap recaros, honda civic type r, vauxhall corsa vxr, renault megane 225 recaros come to mind. Being recaros you could buy the rails for 300zx and fit them straight... i think. But dont take my word for it. Orherwise i kind of like Chrysler Crossfire seats and i think they wouldnt look too much out of place, but they would definately need custom fabrication to fit.

Estimate would be what the insurance paid out normally. Unless it is unrecorded which is what the seller/auction house agrees to list.

Two on auction at the moment. not everyones cup of tea, but i think it is a decent enough widebody. https://www.copart.co.uk/lot/32474751 another one was a very clean late series before the accident, unfortunatelly damage is way too damaged and also cat b. https://www.copart.co.uk/lot/59093850

I would not say that parts are anymore expensive than any other cars. The problem is most parts are not readily available at every corner and most of the time we end up paying dealer prices + overheads and shipping across the world. Be it japan, usa or netherlands warehouses. I remember when I was compiling a list of required parts for an accident damaged Mercedes E Class they were a lot more eye watering. £800 each headlight, £500 bumper skin, £50 numper plate holder(one piece plastic plate). When you take into consideration the actual price of 300zx when new, the prices of parts actually are relatively cheap. The problem is the actual value of the car now vs the parts and that it does not actually add that much value, if any.

Point him to the one on Copart. It is to his taste. ? he would just need to add an extra spoiler and replace those horid 99 spec tail lights with some venom ones and he will be good to go.

To me the crazy part is someone actually bid over 4k on it already. I dont even see that value in parts.

Hmmm. I can see the link Try again. See below https://www.copart.co.uk/lot/58663000

We have some beauties selling in UK as well. Valued at 10k. Bids over 4k already. https://www.copart.co.uk/lot/58663000 Place your bids

Mine wasnt either. I guess only because it is cold up here in scotland. The thermostat was definatelly stuck, didnt pass the tea test ?. Radiator was also cold at the bottom. And thats after 15mile commute. The replacement thermostat opened straight away when i put boiling water over it. Both same opening at 76.5c. It actually is not that hard to do. I managed with the radiator shroud on. If you find thats the problem let me know. I will go step by step how i did it.

Temp gauge would go up in about 5mins. If you drive keep an eye on the temp as it could overheat quickly

I have just fixed the same problem yesterday. Which ended up being a stuck closed thermostat. I would check your bottom radiator hose if it is cold or barely warm when engine is hot. Could be something as simple as that. Tho not the easiest to replace.

Czp or z1 motorsport in usa i would say for OEM. But will be costly. Cant vouch for any aftermarket OE.

Same thing, swapped the mafs just now. Purrs like a kitten again. Shame that a simple thing like this can leave you stranded roadside.

I would replace with new oem new style. Seems like upgraded ones are hit and miss to be fair. You will also need a new chip for ecu. Unless you are looking to run higher boost. But in my opinion you would be opening a can of worms. Some might disagree but oem 370cc injectors are capable of reaching more than enough hp. As for deletes water lines delete is a must and easy to do, the rest is optional and egr will be hard to do with engine in.

Same happened to me today. On the way to work it didnt feel right. Felt like it was wearing a face mask past 3500rpm on the way to work. On the way home felt fine. Done about 5 miles and as i was slowing for roundabout lost all power and car died. Would restart but dies straight away again. Found a vacuum hose off driver side throttle body. Put it back in. Now the car wont die. But idle wanders between 500-1500 rpm contantly but doesnt misfire. Doesnt rev above 2500 either. Tried to unplug maf. No joy. Let me know what you find as it seems a similar problem.