Scarecrow

I now have a picture of the back of the S4 cluster and it's exactly like the blue one you posted. So there are pub tracks and bolt holes for a boost gauge even though one isn't fitted. But it's totally different to my S1 cluster. So it looks like I'll have to start searching for an S4 boost gauge or a cluster with one. This could take some time! Thanks again for all your help Chris

Thanks that's just what I was looking for! Unfortunately my S1 cluster has 4 bolts in a diamond shape (there seem to be blanks for these in the white plastic on yours) so not sure if it'll fit with the PCB connections on the S4. I was hoping to get the importers to swap the gauge in while doing the UK conversion work but it looks like it might be better to wait till I have both clusters on my own bench. It's clearly not the simple plug n play I was expecting!! I really appreciate you taking the time to upload the pics. This forum has the best people on it!

Does the S4 cluster have the 3 bolt holes for the boost gauge regardless of whether one is fitted? Because the S1 gauge is also held on by 3 bolts through the pcb so I may be able to fit it. If you have a pic of the back of an S4 cluster could you upload it? I have a pic of the S1 so I can compare. If I can work out how I'll upload it here!

Appreciate all the feedback here! It's only occurred to me today that while I have both S1 and S4 female connectors (on the clusters) I only have the male ones for S4 (on the cars loom), so my thought of patching between the 2 sets of wiring won't work. It looks like the options boil down to seeing if the S1 speedo can slot in, or getting hold of some S4 bits. All made trickier as the car is with the importers being MOT'd so I can't put the bits side by side to compare!

Or alternatively can I drop the speedo/boost dial from the S1 cluster into the S4? Will it fit given that there's now a boost gauge to fit in?

Yes mines an S4 too. I didn't think you could get clocks with a boost gauge after 1995 at all! That would obviously be easiest if I had a set, but as the ones I have are from a series 1 or 2 is there a way to connect them up? I assume matching wire colour would work but as Nissan were perverse enough to change the connectors they might change the wires too! Anybody have a pinout diagram of the S1 and S4 instrument connectors? That would really help. Alternative is to get a later set with boost as you suggest but it took a long time to find any at all so I'd like to use the ones I have. Thanks Chris

Hi guys, My long-awaited import has arrived at last but I'm having speedo issues. The car is a 1996 JDM TT and so doesn't have the boost gauge. That looks lopsided to me and I don't like aftermarket gauges so I bought a set of JDM instruments from a 1991 TT to swap in. Unfortunately the connectors are all different! Is it just a case of connect red to red, blue to blue etc or is there something more arcane I need to do? Or was there an intermediate section of loom in the early cars that I'm missing? Alternatively would it be better to fit the boost gauge into the old speedo housing (and if so how would I go about that?) As always, really grateful for any help you can give. I'm sure I saw something like this on be forum once before but I'm damned if I can find it now I need it! Thanks Chris

Good advice guys, there are a couple of minor scrapes I could get done at the same time. And don't worry when she finally arrives I'll be posting plenty of photos! Chris

Thanks Gary that's great. I knew I could rely on the forum!

Hi guys, My zed is currently on a transporter on its way from Japan, and I've got hold of a UK spec rear bumper so I can have a neat foglight setup. Only thing is the bumper has a few scratches and I'd like to get it resprayed ready for fitting, but I don't know the paint code. The car is a 96 model chassis number GCZ32 560854. Is it possible to decode the paint from that? Failing that hoe many shades of black were in use in 96? I realise there are lots of threads on this but a lot of the links no longer work so I appreciate any light you can shed. Thanks Chris

Like the guys have said above it's the rolling radius that counts. The space saver may only be a 15" but it's not low profile like your other tyres so the rubber is thicker around the wheel and the outer radius should be the same. You won't be lopsided but it really is only to get you to a tyre shop. Space savers are typically only rated to 50mph and with three fat tyres and one skinny one you won't want to be cornering too aggressively - unless you want to invent a new type of drifting! ;)

Actually Torque GT were doing the scouring for me, I just had to give the yea or nay to bid. A lot more relaxing that way!

Well more like Hallowe'en actually, as after 7 years without a Zed in my life and two months scouring auctions I've finally managed to bag myself a nice black Series 4 TT which should be arriving in blighty mid-late October! I used to have a red 1990 TT (now departed to the land of Optimax and Momentum) but I always loved Zeds in black so I'm now counting the days. No doubt I'll be calling on your expert assistance once my early Christmas present to myself arrives, but I couldn't resist throwing a couple of the shots the importers sent me! Cheers, Chris https://picasaweb.google.com/107486209918697739232/Z32?authkey=Gv1sRgCOT6sNaDnL6FjQE#6051572735067684082 https://picasaweb.google.com/107486209918697739232/Z32?authkey=Gv1sRgCOT6sNaDnL6FjQE#6051572749398318242

It's a 97 so that fits with there being no gauge. Thanks guys, I knew there would be a tame expert on the forum who would just know the answer I couldn't find on google! Cheers Chris

Hi all, I'm in the middle of trying to import a Z and am a bit confused about the chassis numbers used in JDM cars. My understanding was that the NA cars start "GZ" and the TTs start "GCZ", but I've just seen a GCZ chassis number which doesn't have a boost gauge on the speedo. Has somebody made a mistake with the details, or am I wrong about the chassis numbers? Or were TTs ever made without the boost gauge? Thanks for any help, Chris

Thanks for the offer ruishy1, I'm away on holiday at the might take you up on that when I get back!

Wow! That one looks amazing. In that case I think the one I saw is definitely overpriced. I'll keep looking or maybe try to import one. Thanks everybody for all the good advice!

Rust bubbles round both rear arches. Sills look ok but the lip on the near side was getting crumbly. No chance on the day to get it on a ramp :(. I'm thinking I might be in for some sizeable bills to get it sorted and he was asking 4k which would be ok if there were no issues but now sounds a bit steep?

Hi all, It's been 7 or 8 years since the demise of my beloved zed (cooling system self destructed but that's another story) and I'm finally looking to get back into ownership again. Looking for a TT manual that's been looked after. I just looked at a UK spec car which has had a manual dropped in and it ran really smoothly from cold and behaved well on a test drive. Problem is there is a 3-year gap in the paperwork so it looks like the last owner basically did nothing. There are a few questions I'd appreciate views on before deciding on this one… 1: It's done a lot of miles (138k) so should be on its 3rd cambelt. No evidence of 120k change so that would be first job. Any idea what the going rate for that is these days or recommendations for a reliable place to get it done? 2: The last couple of MOTs mentioned corrosion in the front cross member. Is that a part you can source or would it have to be patched? 3: No obvious signs of head gasket failure (water in oil, white smoke, overheating, smelly coolant or bubbles) but the inside of the rad pressure cap neck had a slimy orange deposit. Is that just manky old coolant that needs a change or something more sinister? Thanks for any advice you can give. The gaps in history make me very wary but unmodified manual TTs are so rare I don't want to pass on this if it's really ok! Chris