Scarecrow

Hi guys This morning there were two tiny spots of possibly oil on the garage floor. About to leave work just now I found a big puddle about 10cm across underneath! The puddle was under the passenger side rear of the engine, and oddly it looked like an oil/water emulsion, whereas the oil on my dipstick and filler cap is beautifully clean. This was orangey and too thick. Having no way to get underneath I stuck the phone under the car and took these pics. As you can see it's all over the steering gaiter but I can't see any anywhere else. Any thoughts about where it's coming from? Still reading full on the dipstick and I don't think it's PAS fluid either. It has been stupidly hot so I've been running with aircon on, which is unusual. Thanks for any opinions. I'll try to look underneath tonight but a clue on where to start would help!

Yeah the plugs are different on Series 4 and later. Why Nissan felt the need to do that and to delete the boost gauge is beyond me! Any pennies they saved deleting the gauge must have got lost retooling for the plugs. It's a right pain if you want an OEM boost gauge because you can't swap in an earlier set of clocks, UK or not.

The guy out near Westbury would be me mate! :biggrin:

Spotted yesterday about 17:00 - 17:30. Don't know what flavour it was, it was the missus who saw it and just said it was one like mine, only purple ;)

Spotted a pair of shortie targa panels on eBay, item number 141651967229. Don't look like they're tinted but at least they should fit!

Glad you got it sorted mate. I second what bird says about cable tying it. Happened to me at full chat on a dual carriageway once, nearly a brown-trouser moment!

Yeah that's what I had. Makes a lot more sense with a photo!

The throttle on my TT stuck wide open once. There are a couple of small metal breather pipes either side of the engine at the front, right next to the throttle linkage. I found the one on the left had shifted a couple of mm and was rubbing against the linkage, which sometimes made it stick open. Pushed it back in and secured with a cable tie - end of problem! Hope it's this simple for you. Good luck

Had exactly this on my previous Z. Turned out to be just a loose plug on the sender. Ten second job with WD40 for good measure. Hope that's what you've got, certainly worth trying first off!

Didn't think I'd missed one. I occasionally spot a silver Zed on the A40/A48 but I don't think there are many around our way.

That would have been me! As correctly deduced she's a JDM car but with a UK spec rear bumper so I didn't need to fit aftermarket fogs. I only just discovered this thread which is why I'm 4 months late in replying. Were you in a Zed at the time, I don't remember seeing one but it was a long time ago. And belated thanks for flashing me in!

Well spotted mate! I'd stopped looking on eBay, maybe I'll pull my finger out and try again ;)

Thanks buddy will give it a go!

My car has a Navan manual gearknob fitted and I'm trying to refit the original, but I can't get the Navan to shift. I've read that the originals are threadlocked on, does anybody know if the Navan is the same or is there some hidden retaining screw under a cover? Also if I man up and get a plumbers wrench on it, is there a risk of damaging any bushes or the like in the shift mechanism?

Momo wheel, fitted to my Zed when imported but since replaced. In nice condition, make me an offer Chris

Rear bumper from Jap spec LWB. Black, complete with running lights and number plate bracket. Looking for £25 but make me an offer and give me some garage space back! Chris

Set of instruments from a 92 Jap spec twin turbo. Bought to go in my Series 4 so I could have a boost gauge, but turns out Series 4 have different connectors so I couldn't use them! In really nice condition and will fit cars pre-1996. Cost me £45 but now just taking up space in the workshop so I'm looking for £35 (plus postage if required). Cheers, Chris

I had EXACTLY The same problem with blower relays clicking you have. The fix was really simple. Just take the pod off and remove the inside cover over the circuit board. The blower slider runs along 3 or 4 copper strips, which were filthy. I just wiped them clean. There is some sprayed on lubricant there which I wiped off too, but there was also some excess lubricant on the board by the rotary air controller so I used some of that to replace it. Then just screw it all back together. 10 minute job tops! It really was that simple and the blower is now perfect. I'd certainly rather do that than take the dash out and disturb the entire loom. Beside I kind of like the manual controls. Whichever you decide to do, good luck!

D'oh! Tried looking at usual parts suppliers but somehow forgot to try eBay. 30 seconds searching and I've found two already. A lot easier than trying to prise the glass out. What a numpty. Thanks guys!

The mirror's already off in my hand - complete with collapsed bits rattling round inside. Looks like there is no way in without removing the glass, which is under the lip of the plastic all the way round. I tried prising along one of the long edges (using the entire contents of the knife drawer to keep it open) but there seems no way to get it to release at the corners and I bottled out when I started chipping the glass. I don't suppose it's the same mirror and fixing as in something mundane like a Primera, by any chance? I've been looking online but so far haven't found anywhere stocking 300ZX mirrors.

My rear view mirror has gone kaputt! First the dip lever went floppy and the mirror was loose. I tried adjusting the little tension screw on the back, but managed to turn it too far in the loose direction and it came out. Now the mirror is completely loose on the ball and socket and held in place with gaffer tape! Can anybody advise how to get into the damn thing to fix the socket - I've already chipped the glass trying to get it out? Alternatively does anybody out there have a mirror complete with the mounting arm that's up for sale? Thanks, Chris

Looking for the standard interior mirror. Mines popped off the ball joint and I've given up trying to work out how to reattach it! Thanks

I took the pod apart on Sunday. Connectors looked ok but they were a bit grubby so I cleaned them up, and so far no clicking! Thanks for a really helpful post, removing the board was very fiddly and it helped to know for sure it was meant to come off that way without breaking!

That's great thanks. I'll have a pop this weekend. I'll be straightening my slightly wonky steering wheel so that gives me a job to do while waiting for 20 minutes between disconnecting the battery and removing the airbag :)

Oh and thanks by the way!!