Scarecrow

Ok that's totally different to how I imagined it would come apart, I'm glad I asked!! I'll have a go at that this weekend. When you say to pop the two switches off, you mean just pull them from the front? It looks like they just push onto the red plungers? - - - Updated - - - Ok that's totally different to how I imagined it would come apart, I'm glad I asked!! I'll have a go at that this weekend. When you say to pop the two switches off, you mean just pull them from the front? It looks like they just push onto the red plungers?

I've taken the pod out and undone all the screws but the back plate is still held in place, I'm guessing there's a plastic clip in there somewhere. Do you remember whether it needs to be pulled out at one side or in a certain direction? I don't want to force it and snap something! Cheers - - - Updated - - - I've taken the pod out and undone all the screws but the back plate is still held in place, I'm guessing there's a plastic clip in there somewhere. Do you remember whether it needs to be pulled out at one side or in a certain direction? I don't want to force it and snap something! Cheers - - - Updated - - - No idea why that came up twice!

I've got and intermittent issue with the blower which I'm not sure how to track down. Occasionally there will be manic clicking from a relay and the blower will cut in and out. If the aircon is on the aircon light will go on and off in time with the blower. Mines a series 4 with the manual controls and this can happen in all 4 fan speeds. When it does happen changing the blower to a different speed and then back usually clears it. Looking at previous threads and the FSM there are lots of possible culprits. Sometimes the clicking is behind the glovebox, sometimes on the drivers side and like I said its in all fan speeds. The relays behind the glove box look to be in perfect nick. Has anybody had this before and found the root cause? I don't want to have to replace every component one at a time to track it down. The pain is its intermittent so I suspect most things will check out ok if tested in isolation! Just hoping there's one thing that can affect all speeds and all relays. Thanks in advance, Chris

When you press the front demist button can you hear the demist flap actuator moving? Should be a faint whir audible with engine off. If not the flap may be jammed or the actuator not working. Mine tries to move but is jammed. Afraid I don't know how to access the actuator without taking the whole dash out so if anybody does I'll be reading with interest too!

If it's that simple why do people use a converter if all you have to do is move the screw from the 100k hole to the 10k hole? That said my S4 cluster doesn't have any holes labelled either 100k or 10k. There are several empty holes with contacts, but most of them are unlabelled. Why Nissan had to change the design I really don't understand!

Interesting point. If the chip slows down the speedo pulses is the resistor there to convert the signal to ECU digital format? If so then changing the resistor might indeed deal with the steering weight issue.

Hmm. I wonder what the format of that "digital" signal is - a quantised voltage? If so a simple transistor or op-amp could perform the necessary 8/5 gain to convert back. Is there a reference for the ECU signals available?

So does the speedo cluster modify the sensor signal or just pass it through? If the latter then I could bypass it direct from the sensor prior to the converter chip.

Thanks Ian. Sounds like the best course it to disconnect the converter and see if it affects steering noticeably. If not the. No point pursuing further!

My import has a km to miles converter box fitted which sorts out the instruments, but I'm left with the power steering being really light. As its a series 4 I can't fit UK clocks because all the connectors are different, but I've had an idea and wondered if anybody could tell me if it'll work! The speedo converter was fitted before I got the car so I don't know how it's connected, but I assume there is a connector from it going to the speedo and to the ECU, to sort out the clocks and the speed limiter respectively. If I disconnect the converted output to the ECU and reconnect the original Km/h signal will that sort out the steering? I realise that would put the speed limiter back in but tbh I only use the car on the road so I'm not likely to be exceeding 112mph regularly! Can anybody who's actually fitted a speedo converter offer an opinion on whether this would work, and if so which wires need to be connected to what? Thanks Chris

Thanks Richard those are exactly the tyre sizes I'm running. I'll try upping mine and see how it feels.

Thanks. It certainly feels well balanced at 32 all round so I'll probably keep it like that! Cheers

Just got around to checking the tyre pressures on the Zed, and they're set to 32psi all round. The sticker in the door jamb recommends 2.3bar (34psi) but that's for 225mm all round. I have 235s at the front and 265s at the back. I did a few back of envelope sums and to get the same aspect ratio contact patch, given the Zed's weight distribution, I come up with 31 front/25 rear. Sounds a bit low at the back, anybody out there running similar rubber? If so what pressures do you run? Cheers, Chris

I can second the advice about Torque GT. I just imported my own GCZ32 with them, literally 2 weeks ago. They fitted a Thatcham alarm system and gave it a good going over with Underseal. All I had to do was choose from the ones they found at auction. It takes a while (almost 6 months from when I started looking) but you have a much higher budget than me so should have much more choice. Definitely give them a call, much less hassle that finding a decent manual car in the UK.

Yes, I made up some new wires to connect to the bullet connectors on the back of the head unit, and to the spade connectors on the speakers. Original loom was disconnected at both ends so nothing in contact with the speaker wires in the car. Thanks for the offer but as you say it's a long way from Essex to here!

The speakers were fitted into the original door mountings. No plastic film behind them but all looked clean and dry, no sign of water ingress and I even gave the connectors a shot of WD40 just in case. Hard to believe they've both gone AWOL but I'll swap in the cheap speakers from my trusty, rusty old Discovery and see if they make a noise!

Well, after a couple of hours cursing door cards I'm none the wiser! There is a direct connection from the audio connector to the front speakers, and just in case there was something hidden I disconnected the speakers from the loom and connected them direct to the head unit output, and got exactly the same - quiet and very tinny. Sounds like this is an audio problem not a Zed issue, but I don't know what it is! Same result with both front speakers and both old and new head units, so unless both speakers or both head units have failed there must be a mismatch somewhere. My head unit has a 50W/channel MOSFET output rated for 4ohms (4-8ohms acceptable) and the speakers are 4ohm 160W Kenwood KFC-U1692s, which seem to have a 4mfad capacitor in parallel (I think). Any audiophiles out there care to mock my stupidity as to why this doesn't work, because I just can't see it. Next stop is to try a cheap set of speakers and see if anything emerges from them!

Thanks Gio, the old head unit did indeed have a whole rat's nest of bullet connectors coming out of it, which I've ditched and replaced with a new ISO patch cable. My thoughts were, like yours, that there was a non-powered or dud front amp somewhere, so I'll have to go searching. Thanks for the connector pin-outs, first things first I'll check that my patch cable matches these! Cheers, Chris - - - Updated - - - Thanks Gio, the old head unit did indeed have a whole rat's nest of bullet connectors coming out of it, which I've ditched and replaced with a new ISO patch cable. My thoughts were, like yours, that there was a non-powered or dud front amp somewhere, so I'll have to go searching. Thanks for the connector pin-outs, first things first I'll check that my patch cable matches these! Cheers, Chris

Hi guys, After an age waiting for paperwork from customs and DVLA my import has finally arrived from Japan! It's a gorgeous black series 4 TT with a manual box (promise I'll post some pics when the weather improves and I can get her clean) and I am totally smitten. The engine, gearbox, body and all are fantastic, so I've only got a couple of little things to sort which I'd be grateful for advice on: 1) Neither of the front speakers makes more than a whisper. It was like that with the original JDM stereo and is the same with my head unit. Is there a connector block or amp somewhere that could take out both fronts like this? The wiring to the head unit looks fine; 2) Only one of the illumination bulbs in the heater control pod works. Any idea where I can get hold of replacements? (or a part number I can find in Maplins) I know these are pretty paltry problems but the rest of the car is so spot on I'd like to get them sorted! Thanks, Chris

Let's try that again... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9mPqnuqJYgE/VGYdvFeoHxI/AAAAAAAAAik/4zfK85a7Q2s/s640/IMG_4292.JPG?gl=GB

Just for reference, in case it helps anybody else in a similar position, I finally pulled my finger out and managed to get a photo of the backs of the two clusters uploaded... The green one's from an S1 (with boost gauge), the blue ones's from the S4 (with no boost gauge, but with all the connections for one)

Hi Ian, I got the gauges off eBay from Lincoln so I don't think they were yours if you're in Guildford. They were advertised as being from a 1990 car and have 58000 on the clock if that helps? Chris

As phutumsch says, I'm after restoring a bit of balance to the cluster relative to the oil pressure gauge. Not that bothered if it's accurate, I just want to see it swing to know I'm getting boost. The in-gauge aftermarket ones you mention sound like they might be an easier option if they're not too bling! Do you have a link the the Andy Isherwood ones you mentioned? Thanks

Trying to work out the source of an S4 cluster with boost gauge I've been searching fora etc and it looks like the gauge was reintroduced for the final production year in 2000. Do you know if yours is from a 2000 model? The only pics I have of these show them with black on white dials but I have no idea if they were all like that. Thanks

That's PCB tracks not pub tracks. Thanks autocorrect!