Funkysi

They have those at Atlanta and Los Angeles. Quite common in good modern airports EXCEPT UK airports where it's considered a health and safety risk! :rofl: Schipol airport isn't too bad, Munich is probably has the nicest environment of any UK airport, but I think Madrid's airport is probably the nicest transit airport in Europe.....the worst being Heathrow!

I'm still green though!!! :) REO colours please - to the powers that be!

Ignore me - I saw my subscription was about to expire. I've now paid......hoping it'll return shortly....

Hi, My profile has gone wrong. My user status is set to 'professional newbie' which I didn't change it to and my signature has vanished? Any idea what's happened? Thanks Simon

Damn! There's a name from the past!

Glad they arrived safely!

I recognise some of those bits Gaz! lol

I dunno Steve, I'm in Central London at the moment and it's gridlock. Police EVERYWHERE, some woman in Knightsbridge (where I drove through earlier) was killed when a tree fell on her. It took me 2.5 hours to get from Hounslow to SE1, that's a distance of about 7 miles!

Z locked safely in the garage (and has been for about a month as I've hardly been in the country)! Seeing ex/gf/chick/whatever tonight and will not park the DD anywhere near a tree! She lives in quite a leafy part of Clifton - During the last big storm we had earlier in the year, the car parked from mine further down her street, a nice shiny new BMW had a branch land on its roof!

Will try and find a better photo. The car is now in the hibernaculm for the winter!

That's an older photo, I've since fitted an extension about half its length.

I think you just have to be streetwise and savvy. I've sold cars on eBay before and not had a problem. I ignore 'offer' emails or any sort of message that appears to be 'if it's too good to be true, then it probably is'. I accept cash only on collection.

As Steve said, they were option-only on NA Z32s in the US. Haha, fine by me. When Z God asks a minion, the minion has to be good!

:lol:

Error! They are indeed!

Unsure. Stock pistons potentially are lighter as they're cast (less dense) than forged, however forged are likely to have less material as they're stronger. I'm sure someone on here has measured them. Stock rods and bottom ends are forged and are quite happy to hold 700hp.

Totally agree with Stephen. You're every bit as right to up-spec components when doing a rebuild regardless of power.

Ok, all JDM pre-98 NAs came with a rear spoiler! Haha

:confused:

Did that with my KYB shocks. They're now black. I did that even before I fitted them! I have no horrid colours under my car! :)

Any garish bright colour under the car looks terrible IMO - a blot on the landscape. Keep it neutral and easy on the eye. Black/dark grey being the nicest.

As I said in my PM - Driftworks is your only bet - but PLEASE powdercoat it black from that revolting orange! :)

Fitted a roof mount where the squirter went. Since I deleted wiper and aerial, I used that hole.

Yeah, it's pretty straightforward, but I do know these cars inside out pretty much. Firstly, the door card needs to come off, I am guessing you're replacing the drivers' side? Take the top bolt off of the seatbelt if you have an early car, roll the window down and you'll see a small circular trim tab behind on the plastic finisher that faces the outside, pop that off and remove the screw, you can the pull the upper inside pillar trim off revealing 2 small screws and a bracket, remove those screws. Look half way down the door card and remove the 4 screws holding the plastic retainer where the seat belt enters the door trim. 2 screws under the grab handle felt, pull that piece of trim out with the EW switches on and disconnect. 2 further screws holding the trim on at the front. The door card is now only held on with trim poppers, pull the card gently from the bottom and they'll release. Pull the door card away and up and as you do, feed the belt through the cutout. You now need to remove the door handle; to do this there are 2 small bolts, one behind a plastic cover that needs to come off and one that you can get at through the (now visible) area where the door card was. You'll need to make sure that the window is fully up also. Unscrew those and gently push the handle. Go the exterior and twist the handle down from the front part so that the handle becomes loose and the rods are visible. Disconnect the rods and remove completely - take care not to damage the paint. To remove the lock, there is a circlip holding it to the handle. Unclip it and pull the lock barrel out. Refit is the reverse. It is quite fiddly if you've never done it before, but it's not too bad.

I have a HICAS delete bar if you're interested. It's never been fitted and I had it powdercoated black. - - - Updated - - - .....I also have an NA PAS pot. You'd just need an NA pump, although you can do a bypass on your TT PAS pot.