Funkysi

I actually had to google that. I thought it was another spelling hishap! It's actually an acronym! Good luck in your degree! :)

You don't even have to try dude. ;) There are spell checkers in web browsers, on phones, tablets, pretty much everything. :) Believe it or not, I struggle with spelling at times (grammar, rarely though). I never found English 'easy' at all. Dyslexia only appears in approximately 5% of the population.

....if GL1 is solid (I can't remember now without referring), then no you don't really need clear coat, but it's best to use one anyway...and you'll need one if you're only to spray in water-based. As for 2k supply, that's a little tricker. 2k is still used in North America, so it's still available, but it has been banned in this country. They might still be able to get it for you. If you go for water-based, then the clear coat is 2k.....strange laws, but that's how it is!

Brown Brothers. They are the main agents/importers/stockists for PPG which are the best paint manufacturer. Just give them the code. Name: Brown Brothers Address: East Cross St City: Sunderland Postal Code: SR1 1XB

God you were lucky! New Z looks funky! Strangely - I kinda like those wheels, very retro! Generally hate 3-spokes!

:lol: ;)

...and? lol

I can read it. Alan, you have a free-issue spell checker on your computer. Use it! :)

Actually Bri, I've rebuilt about 10 engines. 3 V6 Vauxhall engines, one of which I stuffed in my Astra Convertible, a couple of 2.08 8v (20ne) items a gaggle of shitty CVH Ford engines and an old motorbike engine when I was at college doing my Engineering and Product design courses. Probably not as many as you, but I'm not quite the novice you think I am. :p I get what you're saying and I agree. I still maintain that oil drains out of the heads to a certain extent (why else does oil read higher when the engine is cold/rested :p ). Oil is far thicker at cold-start, meaning it won't flow as well or have the right properties as warm oil, which is why it's good to just get in the car and drive....engine oil needs heat to operate properly AND flow efficiently, that is fact. :) That is all I am saying. :)

Has your neighbour's insurance settled up?

Nice one Scott!

Damn! Another golden-oldie returns! Good to see you back Leigh!

You get oil pressure instantly. The pressure switch/sensor is buried right down in the engine block and thick oil will be surrounding it giving a higher indicated 'pressure' due to its increased resistance to pour. All the oil galleries to the top of the engine will be devoid of oil and cold oil will not flow as well as hot oil....not to mention the fact that the oil's lubrication properties are at max once the oil is up to temp. It makes less of a change with fully synthetic as it's viscosity is more linear. It might not make a huge difference, but you will have better oil flow to the top of the engine once the oil is hot and circulating. This is the same with any car. :)

The oil is only at higher pressure because it's cold. All the oil drains out when it's not running and it takes a lot longer to flow correctly as its resistance to pour is much higher. I have run a car with no cam covers on it from cold....not a Z though! Not sure how you would either unless you put the fannymould on before the rocker covers....now that would just be silly! :rofl:

You need to find where the 'damp' is coming from and isolate it. I'd then rent out a Rug-Doctor (with attachment), take the front seats out and clean the carpets and seats thoroughly if it's that bad. Fragrance bombs will only mask it. :)

Well the services are indicated quite a while back! lol For that ONE instance where you need to come to a blinding halt after ragging it down the motorway.....:lol:

Oil pressure gauge is just as good as oil temp gauge, I use the stock one and always go by that (rather than coolant), even though it's not as accurate as an AM one. Oil pressure only drops when the oil becomes less viscous and reaches peak operating temperatures. But yeah, correct. Due to the density of oil, it takes about twice as long to come up to temperature as the coolant does. Coolant temperature should really only be used to see if the car is getting too hot....its only other value would be if it stayed too cool requiring that you replace the thermostat.

WORST thing you can possibly do!!!! Starting a car from cold and leaving it to idle does the engine absolutely NO favours whatsoever! There is no oil at the top end of the engine, nothing is circulating up there as the oil is highly viscous. Metal against metal....and no amount of Castrol Magnatec will make it a good thing. You need to get in it and drive it. The engine needs load for the oil to increase in temperature at a rate suitable enough not to cause prolonged damage, leaving it to idle from cold will not bring the oil up to temperature quickly enough. So to ANYONE out there and I've seen from here that people do, never ever leave your car idling from cold....especially those that don't use their car for long periods. Don't periodically start the car and leave it to tick over once a month until warm thinking you're doing the car some good. If you're not going to drive it, leave the damn thing OFF! You're introducing condensation into EVERYTHING, from the engine internals to the connectors, to the exhaust system, not to mention the unnecessary wear and the car always being on 'cold-start' which is effectively pumping more fuel into the engine. If you're storing your car all winter or for a long period of time, don't switch on the engine unless you have to. As for general warm up, I get in my Z straight away, drive it off boost and at lower revs until the oil pressure has dropped to normal operating levels, generally after 5-10 minutes of light driving. It's pretty much ready then. Perversely, never rev it hard from cold either. Gentle driving, so Alan, you're part way there at least! ;) I totally agree with Mark on turbo timers. Drive off boost for the last few miles of your journey, circulating coolant and air around the engine to effectively cool the oil naturally is a far better and quicker way than leaving your car to idle for 10 minutes. I've never really seen the point of turbo timers. They take the common sense out of motoring.

I disagree with the tester, the concept does look better. I've seen the concept at BMW's museum in Munich and it impressed me, the production model, not so much. I do like its appearance though and interior, but I am won over by the drivetrain and the price of the thing. A 3 cylinder hybrid for a £80k....it is fast however, but it has 'engine noise simulation' pumped into the cabin which I think is just tragic....I know others do too, but that doesn't make it a good thing. Remember those tacky things you used to be able to plug into the cigarette lighter to make your 1.1 Fiesta sound like a V8!? lol I have very mixed opinions of the car. Parts of it I love, other parts I dislike. It certainly isn't a car I'd buy if I had the cash.

Sounds delightful!.....

I've only let one of my friends drive my Z, but that was under close supervision as I was filming it. You've got to be mad just to hand the keys over regardless of how good a mate he is. ACTUALLY....Jimmer's driven my Z, but that's a whole other story!...Jimmer's Dad (Old_Zed) has too!

Made your 'friend' pay! This whole thread is bizarre!

I saw an Altima. About the size of a Mondeo.

^^^ I've seen that car in the flesh. I don't think the over fenders work on this example. I have seen some that look good. Draxan's car, which isn't what I'd usually go for, looked pretty good to be honest. The car above is nicely done, but it didn't look right and the MR2 rear lights....I just don't understand. But the whole thing was well done, just not my style.

Thanks y'all!