Dazsw

Do we have and Zed specialists left lol??

Nice to see another Zed getting saved. That car has hardly moved for 8 years so I hope all the fuel pipes/brake pipes etc and all the usual service things that would need changed in that time get sorted bud, get the basics done first before modifying :) Also 15psi boost will not give anywhere near 420bhp IMO.

I had this as well the day, happens after every winter. Had to move the Zed as I had another car up for a 4 day detail job, and funnily enough it was another Z, of the 370Z Nismo kind, lovely car. https://www.facebook.com/DeltaDetailingServices/photos/pcb.1083166798473540/1083165191807034/?type=3&theater

I've had 2 Zeds, and been involved with a couple others and they all do this with the revs, so annoying!

Cheers lads :) Spent most of the day out sorting and painting the ceiling in my detailing workshop lol.

Might give them a try. I used to go in there when it was a joint Renault/Nissan dealer years ago as I've had lots of older Turbo Renaults.

My Zeds looking great, the only thing that lets it down is the moldings and also one of the strips on the door which is faded. They are not bad, but I want them mint like everything else. I see they are available from CZP and also the Z Centre, although expensive. Has anyone recently sourced them fron anywhere else, or even had them refurbished at all? Cheers.

Anytime I see that HKS exhaust on the bay the generally go for a couple hundred quid.

Only place that has all the seals from what I can see is CZP. They also have the drive shaft as well I think.

Pretty much all the hopses have been changed, some twice. With the pump being 25 years old I think it's best just to get it rebuilt, no matter the condition after 25 years it will not be perfect, any more hose issues could be dealt with at the same time. I read another few posts where It said taking off the alternator helped with access, you guys know better though :) - - - Updated - - - Fancy rebuilding another? :)

Got a leak so need to get another ps pump. I see you get rebuild kits but that's the kind of job I hate. Does anyone in the club do this kind of thing? My plan is getting a second hand pump, get it rebuilt then it's just a case of getting it fitted. Thinking of doing a recon on the alternator as well as it also has to be removed the change the pump I believe. Thanks, Daz.

What's the weird mark on the paint in the final photo? ...looks just like a door I was asked to detail last week, problem was it has been polished through the clear so can't be fixed. Looks like the car has been detailed at some point as in that last pic with the sun showing, there is no swirls which is unusual. Or a filling type product has been used to hide the defects, the paint on these is usually so soft that they are easily damaged.

When my turbos fail, and they will one day seeing as they are 24 years old, I will most likely just replace them with original turbos, they work fine and can handle a bar all day long, perfect for me.

So should it be tested warm then Jeff? I've seen the figure which states a TT engine is perfect at 175psi, but wasn't sure if that was hot or cold.

Tried that as well mate, connected to the point Jeff mentioned, same problem. Going to try and get another battery and connect it to that directly, then try again. So annoying that it worked straight away on an old Triumph!

OK so tried it today with the head held open, same issue, not picking up a signal. Got me stumped now, as everything that works on other peoples cars, isn't working.....annoying when that happens!

I personally don't think stuff manufactured now is anywhere near as strong or robust as stuff made years ago, this goes for turbos as well as many other things.

I rested it on the coil pack, just like above, I didn't use a cable tie to hold it open like that though, I will give it a try tomorrow and report back.

Trying to make sure my ecu timing and cas timing are the same. So got myself a timing light. Tested it on an old guys Triumph that lives nearby and it works a treat. I've seen a few different ways you use it with a coil pack system. One way you rested the induction head on the coil pack, didn't work. The other way, you remove coil pack, I then used a spare ht lead I had, attached an end to the plug, the other to the coil pack. The car starts and runs on all cylinders, but once I connect the inductive clamp to the lead, still nothing lighting. Can anyone help?

The Dynax S-50 is excellent, as are all the products by the company that makes it, Bilt Hamer, they have lost of other rust repair products available. Get yourself a dehumidifier for the garage, that will keep the humidity low and keep rust from forming. - - - Updated - - - Bilt Hamber that should be.

Same for me, loved the F40 since I was a wee lad. The performance of it now is still impressive, back when it was new, it was unreal.

It's looking well big fella :) I've got my own wee detailing business now, I would have recommended Gtechniq products, performance and durability is outstanding, the old wagon is looking well though.

Glad you got it sorted matey. That's the kind of obscure thing it sounded like.

All the bushes on my current Zed had been replaced as well, except for the diff mounts. Got a garage to do the job for me mate, so can't give too much info on that, 4 bushes in total, 2 front, 2 rear, one pair of them was easy, and another a bit of a pig according to the lad that changed them.

I had something similar a few years back on a Renault 21 Turbo. Turned out to be the sub frame bushes. Bushes looked fine from the outside, and didn't appear to move much if pressured with a pry bar, but on removal the insides were wrecked, and thus allowed slight movement, even went through Mot's OK. D Bushes on the back of the daily driver Toyota Avensis where the same, looked fine outside, didn't move much, but on removal, clearly ****ed. My Zed I had to change the rear diff mountings as they caused rattling/knocking noises, once again wasn't all that evident until they were removed.