daztomo

Thanks, really happy with the job they have done and can’t wait to get it back to the work shop and do the last few jobs and drive it. As with all projects you have a plan and add at least 6 months!!! Guy at the body shop said the shell was really solid and he was amazed at the condition of the car. Just need to fit the rear spoiler and then go through the brakes again, new windscreen and paint the wiper arms and replace the wipers, go through some plastics and then game on, do the rest of the list while I enjoy using the car.

Well it's getting there at last!!!

Heading from Heald Green towards the A34. Daz.

Without a brake light I think and some modifications to make fit but it will clean the backend up.

That's the one might have to get one bought, recommend anywhere please??? And thanks.

Might be the Perspex strip I'm going on about then, could you post a picture if you get time? Just want the car to be done right while it's in bits for paint. Hope it looks as nice as yours when it's done!!!!

Cheers guys. Steams if I'm looking at the back of your car whats on the rear of the boot though as your spoiler sits above where the standard item lived?? Thats the area I'm on about??

Been a bit quite recently getting the race cars ready for the new season, so on with the Zed!! Drove it for the first time last night properly on trade plates, what a scream, lit the back tyres up in 1st 2nd and 3rd on a dry road!!! Well she’s in the body shop now and hope to have the car back for March and enjoy so I will let you know where I'm up to as and when.

Are the 2 weather trims about 2 feet lonf and one on each side???

The cars gone to the body shop today and we test fitted the fibreglass rear spoiler last night, quick question, is there another trim piece to fit on the rear lip of the boot lid as fitting the replacement fiberglass leaves a big hole in the middle and to me would look unfinished??? Thanks Daz.

Cost you about £1500 for a second hand set or a cheap set and about £4000 for a good set.

Thats the one!!!! PHEW!!! Daz.:clap::thumbup:

No. You set a basic ride height this is the distance the car sits from the ground and then you put the car on the scales and then set the corner weights by adjusting the individual suspension strut length\height to get an evenly balanced car.

No you actually adjust the ride height on each individual strut meaning that if you were to take them off the car they would all be different but on the car with the weight distribution of the car not being perfect the car would sit flat and the weight would be as evenly set up between each tyre across the front and back and as evenly possible from left to right on the front and back.

Moving the platform changes the length of the strut, it’s like standing on one foot, all the pressure is on the foot in contact with the floor, put the other foot on the ground and then try and find the perfect balance between the two feet for the best standing position. It should have read try!! Sorry

Have you seen adjustable suspension strut, it has platforms you can move up and down??? To move the weight about the car you move the platform the spring sits on to change the pressure that tyre or contact patch puts on the ground. Moving the platform changes the length of the strut, it’s like standing on one foot, all the pressure is on the foot in contact with the floor, put the other foot on the ground and then tryes and find the perfect balance between the two feet for the best standing position. Same thing but with each corner of the car. Any clearer?

I contract to race, rally and sprint, hill climb teams, I have been lucky enough to work on ex works race and rally cars. As for tyres, that’s the million dollar question, it’s down to everything!!! The cars geometry Weight Caster and camber Tow in and out Trye compounds Temperatures air and track Dry or wet Application, race, rally and sprint Air or a gas to inflate the trye. All of these have to be considered for a road car I would always go for an intermediate setup due to the fact of doing 7000 miles a year and not having a team of mechanics for when it rains to change the setup. You can over tyre a car as well, in other words the cars doesn’t use its tyres enough to get temperature in to them. You also have mechanical grip caused by suspension setup and this can hammer tyres, for instance when it rains we remove and soften the anti-roll bars and back the dampers off to make the tyres work and get some temperature in them. As for the cost of corner weighting it's something that’s not cheap as we also do a full setup of camber and tracking front and back by stringing the car to make sure it runs perfectly straight. Better the tyre compound the better grip, the sorter the life of the tyre as well!!!!

Sorry for the late reply my daughter has been in hospital for tests. There is a massive difference between a road setup and a track setup. No such thing as a default setup from a web page, no car chassis is the same ever, also rose joints make a huge difference as they don’t have any play in them at all. To corner weight a car is fine for road use and you wouldn’t go to the lengths you would on a competition car to move mass to get the perfect setup.

Have a read here....... http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/understanding-corner-weights/

Adjustable susspension has platforms you can wind up and down for ride heights which are also massively important, once you set the ride heights you then can make small adjustments to set how much pressure each tyre puts on the ground balancing the setup. That's what the scales are for.

You use computer controlled scale pad under each wheel and using the adjustable platforms and adjustable anti roll bars set the weights as evenly as possible under each tyre, the most important weights are front left to rear right and front right to rear left.

It's all about tyres and setup, we corner weight everything we build from race XR2s to full ex works touring cars and rally cars, you also set the car up for the job it's doing, straight line sprints and tracks and hill climbs. Adjustable shocks give you so many options but it's not a case of bolting them on and setting them the same, corner weights are so important!!! Setup is the answer and if you are using rose joints its all about setup.

After speaking to a lot of people on here I would agree with you on the UK rust problem, there's also a massive problem with the design of the car with the drains from the roof. The reason for the paint job on mine is the underneath is the best bit, because the car was covered and stood on ramps also on a slight hill all the water seems to of run off, with there being no road use underside has stayed protected and dry. Going to paint and drive and go from there.

Not even driven her yet!!! LOL Tried to move her in snow on the garage front and we ended up pushing!!! Defiantly doing spring and early summer. Might have another project on its way!!??

Thanks to everyone for there advice and those who have a worth while opinion it really is appreciated.:cool3: As soon as I get her on the road I look forward to meeting up with some of guys. Daz.:thumbup: