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Yup :)

Aye he's defo seen better days, poor auld yin!!

Sorry...... And that is quoted from where?? Well matey I don't know everything but I am a mechanic, its my job to know that a cat works more efficiently when it's warm contrary to the above crap, not to mention the countless customers cars ive mot'd and had to give a "lively" drive down the nearest bypass to get the cats warm enuf to actually work, and if you do some research online including the 300zx service manual (tho a tad vague) you'll find out there function ;) here's one I found in a quick search :) http://www.cmperformanceexhaust.com/faqs/10-the-aiv-fitting-for-the-nissan-300zx

And he'd still kick your arse :D lol

Cheers for the advice jeff, I'm pulling the plenum over the winter for a load if deletes anyway, the purpose of the thread was to see if anyone with a working EGR had noticed much difference in MPG after the delete, il just do away with it anyway :)

AIV's don't cool cats, they operate when the car is cold, as cars emit most nasty shit when the cars cold (on cold start with cats to cold to operate) the function of the AIV's is to warm the cats to operating temps quicker in an attempt to lower HC and CO levels quicker during that warm up period, apparently the valves also operate under deceleration also to rid the system of moisture, whether any of it works is another story but I do agree the lot is shite, rip it all out :)

I have a bung that goes in place of the maf jeff, it has a tyre valve on it so you can charge the system to check for leaks, anything over roughly a bar and air can be heard coming from where the EGR valve is bud, didnt spend too much time fannying about at the time but I guess the diaphragm is goosed, reason for checking was boost was becoming a bit unstable when raised.

Water in the AIV tank, time for a delete :)

Joely is that carmads spoiler you have?? If so any other pics?

I plan on doing all the other deletes and no I don't know if it actually works (probs doesnt) but what I'm asking is what is the mpg benifit to having the EGR in place?

Hiya folks, looking for some opinions from folks that have done the delete. Currently my EGR valve leaks over a bar so the boost is standard, pulling my plenum shortly and am going to either replace the valve and pipe work or delete it, so my question is..... Fuel consumption on long cruising journeys, much difference noticed in MPG from a functional valve to no valve?? Any other downside to the delete? , cheers.

Horrendous init

No worries matey :) I cant stick those dodgy lookin circular lights on zeds but I reckon these look outstanding, perfect sized circular parts for the zed rear

R32 rears look ace in there :) - - - Updated - - - Not real but a nice idea :)

Not at all bud, as a manufacturer of intercoolers states that fmic's can cause lean conditions I think it's one thing worth clearing up before I go and spend £££ and since th dudes on the subject who better to ask :) Personally I'd prefer to stick to SMIC's :) just better ones :)

Dunno I can't really work that part out myself, as you say the balance bars there regardless evening out both plenum pressures :s

Just found this aparantly reason for not fitting fmic ?? Quite interested as i was toying with the idea of getting one lol 4) With the Apollo or Greddy, there are inherent problems with the "crossflowing" design of those intercoolers. They cross-over the airflow so that it eliminates the balance that Nissan developed into the powerplant. i.e. the driver's turbo is powered by the driver's cylinder banks, however, the driver's turbo feeds air into the passenger cylinder banks (note the design of the upper plenum). This creates a great deal of airflow balance between the two banks of cylinders. By crossing-over the intake tracts, the chance of running one side of the engine dangerously leaner than the other is very high.

Some front mounters cross over the charge flow tho, obviously as ya know the left turbo supplies the right bank and vice versa tho the design of some fmic's crosses it over, apparently not a great thing tho I've personally never seen anything to back that up, some other fmic designs are just more or less 2 SMIC's stuck together so keep the low as Nissan intended, any ideas why changing that might cause any problems??

That just happened ..........apparently they don't agree :lol:

This is possibly the most interesting and informative thread I've read since my days on lancer register reading about Evo tuning posted by the dude who started geekmapped dot com......... Exact Same scenario.

Just the basics really, Apexi Induction, japspeed decat / cobra stainless system and the ecu chip. due to my EGR valve developing a small boost leak at just over a bar I thought it pointless to fit another EBC until I'd deleted the EGR,which my lazy ass has yet to do :) I fix cars during the week so really can't be arsed with mine at the weekend, poor soul doesn't get enough loving :)

Cheers for the info :) the data logger is an ECUtalk display/interface for consult ect ect :) so am I to assume the chip I'm running is shite and running the injectors too hard?? Certainly doesn't look too rich at the back end, sadly tho I can't confirm the integrity of the chip as it was fitted before I bought the car :(

Well 15psi on a boot to the floor run ****ed my ring lands and my dat slogger shows injector duty at 100% before I'm ready to change gear!! Hence why i aint refitted a boost controller after the last one died :) - - - Updated - - - Data logger*

Detonation*

Problems youl have with increasing boost over 14psi is injector duty maxing out and the fact that with the small standard turbo's, as boost is increased so is heat, heat + lean mix = destination = ****ed piston land rings. The standard turbo's will produce more than 14psi but you need to keep charge temps down and keep fuelling adequate, plus dont forget those 15-20 year old turbo's reliability will decrease as you ask more from them