MarkDerby

Wind the Adjusting nut all the way back .. and make a new Rod around 1/2" Longer and then try again

Make a new one if you don't have enough clutch clearance ... or shorten it if biting point is wrong but fully adjusted on the peddle

Na ... they go hard due to Heat and time ...

you sure they was Replaced ? None Genuine ones tend to go hard fast ... other than that if there new/OEM it can not be them as they wouldnt go wrong after 10k

Plenum Gasket AG5808 from Andrew Page motor factors

if you make the car with no flex in it you will take away the handling from the car ... thats the main reason the car does twist/flex its not all to do with the suspension setup having the car to low and hard springs will make the car flex/twist more then it should under normal use or OEM setup

edited post 2

the Main thing that's different is the pistons .. changes the Comp ratio but all so they are not quite as strong Rods/crank/Bearings are the same so really u can buy a NA short block .. swap pistons and Uncap the oil ways and turn it in to TT block quit easy if you know how :)

nope its the bottom end that's different ( short block ) Block Oil Channels/outlets blocked off Different Pistons and Compression ratio Oil Pump not really a problem the Main thing that's different is the pistons .. changes the Comp ratio but all so they are not quite as strong Rods/crank/Bearings are the same so really u can buy a NA short block .. swap pistons and Uncap the oil ways and turn it in to TT block quit easy if you know how Heads Year 89>91 had softer valves and porting slightly smaller Heads same from 91>99 p48 same on all the engines NA Cams have different Timing Profile .. very close to the Auto TT cams Pre 94 Other cam differents besides auto/Manual TT 89>94 Shorter old once piece sprockets ( Inlet ) TT 94>99 Longer by 8mm use 2 piece sprockets ( Inlet ) and im sure there are some of the TT Engines around 98>99 thats fitted with No VVT

Dry Powder extinguishers normally use Nitrogen apposed to compressed air as that would add Fuel to the fire

i know they has been a few posts about fires and electrical problems Leading to Please when you buy yours Make sure its a Dry Powder type like in this link http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/600g-FIRE-EXTINGUISHER-1ST-AID-KIT-IDEAL-HOME-CAR-TAXI-OFFICE-MOTORHOME-/150899509841?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item23224fca51 the last ones i seen in super markets was Water based this will not put out your Fire if its from Fuel instead it will make it worse and just another tip if you do happen to have a fire in the engine bay DO NOT open the Bonnet fully only on to release latch and then spray extinguisher in to the gap on to the engine

fitted new engine mounts Adjusted / reseated boost pipes Filled the system with anti/water and noticed i have a little bit of play on the steering track arm so thats another job todo

yep all hub and bolts have to come off

the colour u have there is slight Over fuel but nothing to much to worry about and yes you should have all the same plugs

yeah it will charge faster and does help if you happen to have Large Ice install .. but then again most car alternators are only around 60amps being that there is only about 10 amps between them its no problem anyways

na not at all m8

yep .. TT is 85>90amp Na is 80amp .. both have identical fittings

yeah in the pics of post 8 there is but for some reason i thought they wasn't your pics ... and u only had standard down pipes and decats

dont forget that those turbos will need a wastgate adding to the Exhaust Manifold

very bad news m8 feel for you m8 i know how it is :( but to the sounds of it and with it being no oil in the engine i would be pointing more towards the Main/Big end bearings shot Hence the tractor sound normally if a turbo fails due to oil they be lack of power or rattling/grinding sounds

the metal pipe's has been adapted to have the take off .. and the rest is Rubber pipe

didn't tell me about it .. it would be easy to modifie original pipes anyways just drill and tap the other turbo outlet pipe and take a pipe to the idle control pipe and T in to it ..

not needed really Noz on here use 1 maf with no other mods and just remapped ecu to suit

not sure how you are thinking about your turbos and this kit .. but totally different parts of the engine and idle system that kit z1 have was done before the Selin dual Maf setup was available to buy and to use that old system did work but you had to have your ECU remapped to work with One Maf on one side of the engine think the Maf signal was divided x2 something like that the extra pipes was to take a Vacuum feed from the other side of the system and route it back in to the idle control valve for a better idle on that setup

happy birthday m8