MarkDerby

most will do ... you just have to keep the wire clamp open when its sitting on the coil pack even this works http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AccuSpark-H8000-Ignition-strobe-Timing-Lamp-/180660832618?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a1039896a

5" .. haha all most the same as this ... from labree

dont use Ebay .. Ring them and only buy them . not with the Track Rod End Rose joint ( Blue ) as they dont fit the 300zx hub but the rods above fit the rack and existing Track rod ends

it was £69 quid Posted to door m8 not fitted yet but i am sure i can do a Write up

No Problems

haha ... i thought thats what your in to car mad .. Znuts strap on .. lol

got them .. something more to fit tomorrow

useful items they are .. not very costly either

just check my tracking number and my exhaust will be here on friday .. fooking excited :):)

just a follow on from why not to use No Genuine nissan belts or 3rd party branded as per the other Thread about using non genuine belts these are the things you need to be looking out for when timing Having the Cams and Lower sprocket in the correct place now as all Proper 300z Mechanics know that the timing marks on the 300z are only for point of Ref not for timing the car engine spot on when timing you start from the bottom working anti clockwise as the tensioner is on the left Refer to this when using a belt that don't have the timing lines on it 24-45-24-59,---------,76 from the crank to the right exhaust cam. numbers are teeth between cams, starting with the right exhaust cam Now most of the time the cams will not align up with the dots in the rear cover so that's why its very important that its correct on the belt When electronically timing the engine up Only use a Strobe light ... as when the car is hooked up to conzolt it will only tell you its at 15* regardless where the cas has been moved to thanks for looking Mark

replied/text

£30 Collected .. Derby

TBH i can not tell you what the Problems was with Rev 1 and these compared but up to now the quality looks spot on no air leaks and the fitment of the throttle flaps was spot on no stickiness or wobble and the car idles ok too

yeah far as i'm aware ... it was Rev 1 that was wrong ... these are Rev 2

i have one i can sell u .. and your not to far from me to pick it up Email ( Mark@drcorc.co.uk )

nice ....

yeah thats my way .. spirited runs for 500 at least but not taking it to rpm limit .. oil change and then higher rpm loads >1k then tune the engine i know there are many ways or running an engine in but it just comes down to personal preference really and if your in to rebuilding engines all the time for track/strip use

so .. what did ya win then ?

not sure where to post this but in a post somewhere a Z owner said they will be poppin over to see me but not sure who Adam from notts i know about your self but it was another User please let me know as its bugging me as can not remember lol Mark

na different wheels, lights and bumper

close the rail sits under the plenum .. the fpr/ fdr connect to it

a fuel rail is what your injectors sit in and distribute the fuel between all 6 injectors

Right oil but may be down to not enough Running in then 500>1000 for Rings to bed in right

Right oil but may be down to not enough Running in then 500>1000 for Rings to bed in right

what Oil was used for running in ?