shaunmac

I should have read all the replies before posting that thread in General Forum cos it seems that Zimon beat me to it!:D that'll teach me to pay attention in future,lol :rolleyes: :D

Oh sh!t, this was supposed to go into that thread re 'hypothetical crash! WTF!!!:mad:

Andy Duff, you're forgetting that if a car travelling at 120mph hits a stationary car, both with probably be moving after the crash & so all the energy won't be used. In fact, if there was no friction, both cars would be moving at a combined speed of 60mph assuming they weigh the same! (Conservation of momentum) MV= M(V/2) + M(V/2) M=mass of car, V=120mph! That means that total energy in 120mph car before crash = 1/2* M *(V)^2 = 4 * 1/2* M *(V/2)^2 after crash, combined energy of both cars would be = 1/2*(2*M)*(V/2)^2 that means that the energy used in the crash = 4* 1/2* M (V/2)^2 - 1/2*(2*M)*(V/2)^2 = 2*M(V/2)^2 - M*(V/2)^2 = M * (V/2)^2 Which is the same energy used if two cars travelling at 60mph were to crash into each other. i.e. 1/2 * M * (V/2)^2 + 1/2 * M * (V/2)^2 = M * (V/2)^2 Sorry, just had to make my point:p :D

>how does a dry joint cause a transistor >to fail???? >cant get my head around that one.... There were dry joints on the cct board, in particular across one capacitor & a leg/legs of the transistor that raises the fuel pump voltage to 12V when car is first started. Somehow the dry joints must have caused one of the junctions in the transistor to blow which in turn dragged down the second transistors (1 that pulls voltage up to 6-9V during driving) output intermittantly due to the dry joints on the fooked transistor making/breaking. The voltage to the pump was registering around 1-2V when the car was playing up instead of 6-12V normal. :rolleyes:

Sounds likely that it is the MAS. Failing that, look at the Fuel pump voltage regulator. This went on my car & it took me months to diagnose the fault. The circuit board had dry joints on it! which caused a transistor to fry :rolleyes:

Auto's are so smooth with the power delivery that they don't feel that quick, but they are. The only way you'll realise it is to look at the speedo or look at cars as you're overtaking! I got a drive in an E55 AMG recently & that is 490BHP through an auto box & even that didn't feel megga fast. Another factor is that the suspension is very stiff on the Zed & therefore the back of the car doesn't dip much when you boot it. If you're in a car with a moderately powerful engine with crap suspension, it'll feel really quick cos the back of the car will drop a lot (RWD) or the Front will raise up (FWD) giving you the impression that you're being accelerated more that you actually are.

I remember towing my brother in his VW Golf diesel with the Zed once. He said that it scared the cr@p out of him cos it was several times faster than it had ever accelerated before, ;) :D

My car is much quicker after converting to Manual, or at least it feels a lot quicker!

Good point! I think it actually makes the car more dangerous. If the brake pedal was the normal size then I'd have hit the floor pan instead of the brake!! would have been safer. Perhaps it's for people with sh!t co-ordination ;) :D Saying all that, the stock brakes are so cr@p on the Zed that you need two feet to stop the fooker! especially on the auto:p :D

If you have two cars & your Zed is auto & the other is a manual then beware!! I nearly caused my next door neighbour to crash into me one day cos I stamped on the brake pedal thinking it was the clutch, lol. The ABS kicked in too and the roads were dry! :D :D :D One thing I noticed when I swapped the auto to manual is how much more the auto box weighed! Even with two of us, we couldn't lift the bugger down into the pit from the engine. I had to let it free fall:rolleyes: The manual box on the other hand I managed to lift to the engine & install on my own!

My CH boiler is busted:mad: That means no clutch for me & therefore no Zed for a month:(

If the car was OK till recently & no work has been done then it'll be a fooked centre bearing. Another thing to check though if work has been done is that the prop has been put back at the right angle with respect to the other half prop. There's 4 different angles, 0, 90, 180, 270 and you have to select the one that gives you least run out. ie. the one that allows the prop to turn without moving from side to side out of true (or at least that's the way I understood it).

I've E-mailed him about it. Just waiting for a reply.

It seems I was looking at the 300ZX NA clutch assembly, Sorry Smithy! The clutch will in fact hold 570 ft lbs!! That isn't such a bad price then, I might have one off you too.:)

That's OK but that one can only hold 300 foot pounds whereas the ACT street clutch can hold 430 ft lbs & is only £370. Decisions decisions. http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templates/frmTemplateH.asp?SubFolderID=184&SearchYN=N

Yes, that equates to about the same as if I imported one by the time you take into account import tax & shipping. It really riles me that not only do we have to pay through the nose to fuel them, we get ripped off on the parts too! :mad: In fact, you pay the same in pounds over here as what you'd pay in Dollars in the US. That's the general rule of thumb.

I really don't know which one to go for. I could go for the stock one but they don't seem to last too long. I could go for a paddle clutch but I've heard that your flywheel has to be in good nick which mine isn't! Also, I've heard that you have to rev the engine to set off smoothly & that they're a bit logical. ie. they're either on or off, is this true? I've heard that they don't last long either! Also there's a street clutch which is OK but costs $490 +$60 +20% rip off tax cos we live in the UK. Anyone know where I could get a clutch at a reasonable price or am I dreaming!!:confused:

My brakes are crap & always have been. I have to jump on the brake pedal to get the wheels to stop or get the ABS to kick in. My brothers is the same, in fact his brakes are worse! Could this be sticking pistons also or are the brakes just crap?:rolleyes:

Leaving a charger on a battery shouldn't flatten it if it's not switched on because it uses 4 diodes to rectify the AC from the transformer in the charger. The amount of current that can flow the wrong way through a diode is negligible. I've heard that connecting a charger to your battery whilst still connected to the car can knacker your alternator plus possibly other stuff. Don't know if this is true or not. Don't really want to find out either!!

I can't see how they could justify putting the price of Gas up to the same as Petrol as the emissions are ziltch. After all, the reason why we pay so much for petrol is to get cars off the road so as to reduce the damage to the environment, Yeah right!!!:rolleyes: :mad:

Yes, but at least you wouldn't have to drive two cars, lol:D

Naa, They've probably only ever done conversions on Tractors:D I might give them a ring just out of curiosity.

Here's a thought, would it be possible to convert a Zed to LPG? or would it be virtually impossible! What kind of costs would I be looking at? Probably more than the value of the Zed right?:p

>2. Tow a spare Z behind you.:D :D :D That was funny!

What kind of power could you get from a stock engine with say a HKS airfilter, exhaust & bleed valves with this ECU then?