Silverline

Next it will be Brussels deciding on how much we will be getting paid seen as they dictate everything else! lol quality :)

The Dragger is 3.5" at the back half so its perfect its the middle silencer you need to eliminate where it goes 2 into 1 which is quite tricky to fabricate silencer wise so a y pipe would be the solution in that section the front pipes will be 2.5" if you have the full turbo back system. its very well made and designed if only they had built it in stainless lol

Well i havent seen any non divorced ones i like that are on the shelf leaving divorced as the only options if i was making a set my self i would use a stainless flange with an atp t25 to 3" transition and a 3" elbow and v band for the best flow that way its 3" start to finish but again thats just me and what i will be doing :) with tubular manifolds its actually the other way round the idea of equal length is that you get a constant pulse fire to spool the turbo faster so a constant flow of gas from each bank just as example 123 123 123 where as a cast log isnt so you could in theory get 12and 3 arrive at once then a gap of no gas followed by 12 and 3 again hence equal length being far more responsive :)

agreed on that statement but when i refered to stainless i meant a set of longer tubular manifold of equal length i should have been clearer with my answer as the longer ones of course dont have the same problem when braced correctly as an un braced short version as you have shown with your link there are lots of variables to a succesful manifiold and i was generalising prehaps a little more than i should have done with my previous reply

relibilty of cast manifolds is good compared to cheap stainless ones but not any better than a properly built 316 or 321 grade manifold thats built properly and not for the ebay market the last thing you want is a manifold that disapates heat back into the engine as you want it to retain all the heat in the runners of the manifold this will keep the engine cooler as less transfers back in to it and increase spool of the turbos as the hotter the gas exiting the more can be gotten out as its smaller and the quicker it will spool yout turbos stainless actually retains the heat naturally in the manifold better than cast or mild steel making it the best option if its built properly and i of course refer to the 200 pound chinese things a pair of good tubular manifolds will cost 5 times that so on a sensible budget the cast ones are a good compromise for flow. and reliability

lol yes it does the divorced ones put the wastegate gases. back in at the widest point ie the 3 inch part to reduce the backpressure rathe than earler on as it expands plus in some cases it easier and better flowing to that than oval it all from the turbo not in all but some turbo type dependant. if that makes sense without getting to technical on my phone lol

yeah dont what the stainless cracking as it does do we :-)

id go mike smith, ams or custom manifolds. and down pipes alloy toys 3 inch for internaly gated turbos custom if external but thats just me :-)

id suggest using high grade mild steel galvanized or coated over stainless to be honest

let me know what sizes you want i can get you pretty much anything on the planet nut and bolt wise :)

Ok with exhausts and sizes there is a general rule of thumb to go by providing you have the turbo elbow correct in size as well single and twin turbo cars single exhaust 2.5" is ok to around 200-250 hp after that it proves to have back pressure issues you cant get around and even at this horse power level 3" is preferable but not essential 250-450hp 3" is a must to free up spool and horsepower over 450 hp 3.5" becomes a necessity although a lot of people don't seem to realize when you get to 650-700 + it needs to be 4" even though a lot of the turbos at this level have a 3" discharge on the exhaust housing it necessary to expand it as close to the turbo as possible before bottom of bulkhead to the larger diameter to accommodate the exhaust gas expansion as it cools down as it gets further away from the turbo so as not to create back pressure Twin turbo cars twin exhausts have same issues but you if you look at it logically twin 2.5" is ok to around 400hp twin 3" 5-800hp twin 3.5 900hp and so on just a basic rule of thumb to go by without getting to technical

im on my phone today but will explain everything about exhausts flow and sizes to power ratios when i get in the workshop in the morning and have a keyboard to use instead of a galaxy lol for the record i run a twin 3" system but more on that tomorrow if any one has any technical questions on exhaust or engine design and setup etc please feel free to ask me on this thread

Noz is correct in what he says in one sentence bad mapping kills engines not 21psi of boost

ooooooooo some ones had a pap pap :) (runs and hides behind monitor lol )

its a 3 day job take a day for assembly if done properly

the z is fairly close to 50/50 on weight distribution 53/47 from memory

I think its Poss me and zed world use same person looking at that pic and if we do they are the best i know of :) and certainly looks that way

Yep 255-295 is ok on 10j as a guide

I have all my shafts custom made and balanced never had one with vibration yet

I would say it was very good price wise and a good buy

been looking into this myself

Sign of things to come all round in my opinion looking at last 10 years

New toyo r1r is incredible in dry and very good in the wet ive just fitted set to mine

no it dosent but it was only minor and with heat build up but cured the problem so as to speak

Interesting that I have a slight warp on my stock discs at higher speeds after couple of braking sessions and after fitting the spl tension rods with there optional brake deflector air vents 90% of the warp has disappeared so air flow is an issue to the discs