NitroPow

If the gearbox can move then I believe you remove all the bolts. Now to remove it completely (come out from the flywheel) you have to lift it up a little and then pull it out. But dont it alone. Use a car lifter or something so you dont drop the gearbox

did u remove the shifter?

As far as I know the Auto ECU will owrk on Manual car but the Manual ECU will not work on an Auto. My car was Auto and I convert it to Manual. I am still using the Auto Ecu no problems

Has anybody figure out how to set up the LOW-FIT HIGH-FIT values? I dont know how to set it up correctly.

Mine is a bitch. She cant see anything going faster or look better. She just wants to kick his ass.:dance: :slap:

This is not something I would ever do on my car but it looks quite cool. Especially if somebody revs at you on your rear bumber. Then burn him. :) http://www.hotrodsetc.net/74bird.mpg

Correct me if I am wrong but arent you supposed to disconnect the boost selenoids in order to be able to bybass the det sensor? In this way the car will not go into safety boost if det sensor detects detonation. You can be in safety mode only if you boost controller is switched off. As for boost leaks: I assume that if you are having boost leaks you might still get 18/19 psi but not as quick as if you have no boost leaks. And maybe boost leaks might be your problem. Try a vaccum test and see if everything is ok. Also double check your boost selenoids.

Not he Nismo one This one. http://www.lextreme.com/FMU.htm I actually borrored it for next week. I am going to the drags if i prepare my car and hoping for 11's easy. Stock Turbos, injectors, intercollers. But 60/110 Shot of Nitous Wet kit. Fingers crossed

Hi guys. Do I have to remove the stock one in order to install an aftermarket FPR? Thanks

Manual Gearbox Driveshaft Flywheel (all the bolts) Pressure Plate Clutch Disk Pedals (CLutch and Break) Clutch Master Cylinder Clutch Slave Cylinder Clutch Booster Clutch Vacuum Hoses Check Valve Vacuum Tanks (2 of them) Clutch Release bearing Shifter + Shifter Bushing Holder Bracket Lower Dust Boot Upper Dust Boot Manaul Shift Boot Shift Knob :) Here you go Re I am waitting you to come here in Limassol tonight. Fitos

Double check the instructions http://www.z32.org/html/sbcid.shtml Also. DO NOT RAISE THE BOOST(gain) TO 100. If it works properly you will blow your motor.

Your head lights are sprayed or electroplating?

UR pulley, flywheel, racing clutch and downpipes. I will tell my comments next week when I put them on But i've heard that it makes a big difference

Does it need core change? Who sells it? My borther wants to raise the boost and I've heard that SE chips are equally good as JWT ones.

300Z.. Do you have the picture (the Z with flames) that shows in your post in large? Can u mail it to me if you do?

After my post about my car behaing badly at idle and sometimes when cold shutting down I decided last Sunday to try few of what u guys told me and so far everything seems to be ok. The only think I did is to remove the Air Idle Regulator (Dont know if this is how its called) that closes after five minutes. I opened it and cleaned using WD-40. I also use WD-40 for all the connectors. Then I also discovered that one of the engine vacuums was disconnected (this causes erratic idle i know for sure). After putting it back I start the car and so far is working fine. Tip: I aslo cleaned my engine with WD-40. You wont believe how clean it gets. I used it every where and then I wiped it off with a cloth. It looks like new..Honestly, you wont believe in your eyes.

I definetely need information because I have no idea how to do it. Thanks

Ahh and also Sometimes the Rev band is not smooth. At Idle (when hot) it goes up(up to 1200Rpms) and down (500 Rpms). But not always.

Problem started few weeks ago. When car is cold and turn it on. Revs go up to 1500 then drop down down down and finally car shuts down. Before the only think I had to do is press the gas a little for 1 sec and then car was operating normally. Now it got worst and I have to press the gas for some time to prevent the car from shutting down and even sometimes this is not enought. Might still shut down. Idle sensor? Maybe? Any similar experience?

Question is how much r u willing to pay. Sports 500 T25/T28 HKS 2530 Greddy TD05 16G PE1420 But you need $$$$

I notice last night that when I hit the gas, head light power drops nearly 30-40%. Battery is replaced 2 months ago. I used more amps than before. Everything was fine until last night i guess thats why i noticed it. What kind of problem might cause this?

a) HKS 2835/ Greddy TD06 20G b) Greddy Racing Westgates c) Pentroof manifolds d) Jun Internals (The entire packet) e) Racing pulley. f) Racing cams. You have exclusive rights to make additions to the list above.

Against the EVO VII from 0-60 its kind of impossible to be ahead. 430bhp 2-wheel drive (traction??) against a 4-wheel drive. Unless you race him with MT drags then it would be a fair match. (0-60 only) However after 60 is a different story. Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz and bye bye. Against an M3/M5. With good tyres and good driver you can have him.

Yeah :) I usually do that when someone stick one my rear bumber. You have to include the image withinh the img]tags. Click the [help] link next to vB Code and it explains you how. However if you want to create a profile with pics you have to be a subscribed member (i guess). As for the coil plugs you can also use tieracks (the plastic that tides the wires)

Ohh man. You should have let me know before and I would have taken you for a ride. Mine is silver. With WingWest Bodykit and UK licence plates. In Limassol there are 3 silver Z's (Mine, my borthers -which is broken : needs new radiator - and another one which I only see 2 times and the owner is an old man and never speeds). So it must have been me. :)