NitroPow

http://www.cyprusracingcars.com (The blue one)

We will. And we are planning making a record. No joke. This car did 12.115sec in 1.4 mile drag competition with just Blitz Intake and 80shot of NOS on stock ECU 11 or 12 PSI if i remember correctly. There is a threat somewhere in the forum about this event. This time if everything runs smoothly we will crash lots of bones.

Thanks guys. We raced 2 bikes so far and we smoke them both. Without Nitrous. A GSXR1100 and a new Kawasaki Ninja ZX-9R 2003 . I know some they will ask for a video for a proof but unfortunately we didnt have a camera. :) But i am buying a SONY DVD camera soon and i will definetely make some serious race videos.

In that i agree. There is a limit on every turbo and if you exceed that limit the turbo starts producing very hot air which is bad for the engine. But the limit of every turbo differs from car to car due to the fact that we dont use the same mods. When a company rates its turbos -say 350hp- this doesnt mean that when you put that turbo on the car, the car cannot make more than 350hp. Thats not the case. Turbo ratings its just for turbos. Now if you have supporting mods (larger intercoolers, radiators, intakes exhaust etc etc) together with the turbo you can get more hp. Our engines are more strong that most people can ever imagine. At i least i proved that to myself. With the right mods and tuning you can get big horsepower.

I am asking you again. Where did you read that the TD-05 16G's are rated 300hp each and i want to know how did they rated it? Which engine, under what boost....Where is it written?

The figures that you see is Rear Wheel Horse Power. 688rwhp that makes us around 825hp at the flywheel. But again that power is with NOS. Without the NOS and 98 octane fuel at 1.49 it did 608rwhp which makes us 730hp and not 900 like somebody else mentioned. As for statement that the TD-05 turbo beeing able to produce that kind of power let me ask you this. How a turbo's power is rated? At what boost levels it should produce its power? On how many cylinders? Under what conditions? HKS rates its turbos but they mention nowhere if its average,max or min. They mention nowhere at what Boost levels and they mention nowhere on how many cylinders and on what engine. Do put it otherwise. If you take a T-72 and you put it on a 4-cylinder engine and you put a T-72 on a 6- or 8-cylinder engine will it produce the same power?

I know. Ours is the same. That gives us around 825hp at the engine. But the dyno will give only what you did at the wheels. You have to multiply by 1.2 to get the engine hp. Thats on a stock gearbox with OS Gicken Twin clutch kit. Also you have to bear in mind that the dyno is not the only think you have to take into account. The dyno shop is no more than 1km from the sea. It was also 15-16 Celcious with low barometric pressure. Every little helps.

You know what! I dont think that you are unfair. Thats what i was thinking long time back when i was at tt.net and somebody said that he did 744 on stock internals with NOS. I remember that time i call it BS. Then i went to SGP racing store web site that rates the TD-05 16G at 650rwhp. I call that BS also. I have seen several people since then at tt.net getting high horsepower cars without too much effort at TD-05's and stock internals. We tried it and it worked. Hell...what you need to get those numbers? Pistons? Rods? Cams? You need to modify your engine internals for what reason? To give you extra horsepower? No...You need those to take the abuse in case something goes wrong. If the car detonates at that hp range with stock pistons then it goes boom...But what if doesnt..What if no detonation occurs. As for MAC's comment about having TD-05 18G and getting only 504hp. I want to ask you only this. Are you happy with your numbers? Do a research and see what other people are getting at 1.4 bar on those turbos. I am sure that you expected much more than that because you know that they are capable for much more.

Can you justify your argument? Why is impossible?

Man i dont know what to tell you. I have no reason to lie. I know that anyone can make up numbers and come here and show off but trying to conviece people about this dyno is not something i will put effort on. We are running JWT ecu and if you can see our Air/Fuel is not the best you can get cause we did no tuning. We had only six runs and thats the numbers that the last run showed us. Even without NOS we got 608. We are close to sea level and there was a low pressure which was ideal for dynoing the car.

Show me your dyno results.

I think its 95%. So lets see if my maths are correct i must have a loss of 653.6rwhp. So if we subtract that from 688 that gives 34.4rwhp. This exactly the horsepower i need to smoke your ass. :mac1:

And here it is also without racing gas and NOS at 1.46bar

To add on that: Racing gas is used in most cases if you are planning to run more boost and if you are planning to do more aggressive tuning. We just throw the racing gas into the gas tank and hit the NOS button :) . We didnt adjust the timing or the fuel maps. We used racing gas just for safety reasons, to avoid detonation. And to tell you the truth when we hit the NOS button the mixture became lean between 5000-6200 RPMS. Somewhere around 13.4 or something and that was due to the fact that we need larger fuel injectors for the NOS kit. Without NOS we used 98 octane unleaded gas from the petrol station and we were getting good 12.something AIR/FUEL ratio.

You can see a dyno chart from the second time at the dyno (same dyno) at http://www.cyprusracingcars.com - featured cars - blue 300ZX. Also when we used NOS we also used 110 Racing Fuel for safety reasons. Basically we wanted to see how far this stock engine can go. We wanted to run more boost but the AIR/FUEL ratio was a bit lean so we didnt want to risk it any more.

I do and i will post it in the evening cause now i am at work. This is the best turbo you can get for the Z. At 5500rpms you've got full power and the feeling of having that power at that RPM range is great. The car is Twin Turbo manual with a Twin Turbo AUTO engine and as far as i know the cams for AUTO are different than the MANUAL ones and therefore we get the power even faster.

What amazes me the most is that this is the 3rd time we took the car to the dyno. Plenty of runs on its back. Also its been driven frequently and its been pushed a lot to its limits several times. Still runs great. Nock wood...:)

That was with 60shot of Nitrous Wet kit and at 1.55bar (18degrees timing) Without the NOS we did 608rwhp at 1.46bar (18 degrees timing). But the most amazing thing is that we are still on a stock engine. ****ing hell, how much abuse this engine can take. We just took the car to the dyno and we start making runs, no tuning, no timing adjustments. Here is the mods list: JWT ECU tuned for dual intake 850c PE 850cc injector kit Greddy TD-05 16G 1.2 Tomei Head Gaskets UR pulley Custom Twin Intake Greddy 2-row FMIC Greddy oil cooler Nismo adjustable FPR Nismo Fuel Pump. Custom Radiator Custom exhaust OS Gicken Twin Clutch Everything else is stock. (pistons, rods, bearings, crankshaft, springs, spockets etc.) Honestly i still cant believe that. I will post the dyno soon later in the evening

Also more pics of the car http://www.cyprusracingcars.com Go to Featured Cars Section and you will find it there.

My brother has it on his 630hp 300ZX.. (He's got TEIN NA) I think if I upgrade mine i will go with TEIN also. My opinion. Go for it

So 800 pounds its a good deal i guess. The one which its 800 UK pounds I will buy direct from Japan. That include door to door shipping as well. I also believe that it wont take too long to arrive since I will pay for fast delivery. If anyone wants to have the kit just drop me an email. (info@cyprusracingcars.com) I dont think shipping to UK will cost much and also you dont need to pay taxes either since i will send it from Cyprus (EU country).

I am about to order one and the cheapest i found so far is 800 pounds and in USA $1500 including shipping. Anyone has a better price?

Most people with SBC-ID make the mistake to punch it at 1st gear or 2nd and expect to get their hp. Thats wrong because you get whilspeen and that causes incorrect readings. If you want to do it correctly, first calibrate it (enter cars weight, and factor) and then go to the highway at 4th gear and punch it until 7000RPMS then you will get somehow a good reading.

You can run big power with 555cc but they will be working 100%. Now how do u tell if thats the case. We used NProbe to datalog each run and at 1.3bar we had 90% duty cycle. Of course we can run more boost but they will get stuck open and thats not good for injectors. Even my stock injectors are maxed out at 14.8 PSI. I am running 14.8 since the day i upgrade my chip to JWT, thats two years ago. I datalog my duty cycle last week for first time and i found that is 100% between 4200RPMS all the way to the REV limiter. This is something i didnt know of course and now i will run lower boost until i upgrade my injectors also. I believe thats the case also with everyone who runs more than 14PSI on stock injectors. They must be working 100%.

Hows everything going with your project? Haven't follow much the forum lately so dont know at what stage you are. I am also thinking of upgrading my turbos to TD-05 18G kit. How much the TD-05 18G kit costs u?