NitroPow

We will past over 650rwhp. We also need to upgrade the injectors because now they are at 90% duty cycle. Just my reccomendation: If any of you is thinking upgrading your turbos to the Greddy ones, dont get 555cc injectors. You will max them out with not too much boost. Invest some more money and get the Border 850cc kit. Unless you are happy up to 550rwhp then 555cc should be fine.

This is my brothers car. All the parts were imported by me http://www.cyprusracingcars.com [he payed of course :)] He spend somewhere around 12K + car price to make it the way it is now. This includes colour change(used to be silver), 18" wheels, tyres, loud sound system, bodykit, engine mods and lots of chrome. But he saved a lot of money because he strip the whole car to paint it and he put it back together. Also all the engine mods made by him. He put everything (turbo kits, injectors, head gaskets etc.)

This run is at 1.3 Bar with the manual boost controller (thats why spool is a bit slow) on stock Engine with the following mods. NO Tuning, NO timing adjustments (17 degrees timing), NO Nitrous, NO chilling the intercooler. Just Boost. We wanted to use Nitrous but since the wastegates didnt want to hold more than 1.3Bar of Boost we apandoned the idea. [1.] Greddy TD-05 -16G kit [2.] Nismo 555cc injectors [3.] Greddy 2 ROW FMIC [4.] UR Crank Pulley [5.] Custom Radiator [6.] JWT ECU tuned for 555's and twin intake [7.] Custom Twin Intake [8] Tomei 1.2mm head gaskets Couple of pics of the car.

We dyno my brothers car yesterday and we manage at 1.3bar to get 526rwhp and 464tq. Also at 0.69Bar we did 346rwhp and 340tq. We couldnt raise the boost more than 1.3Bar because it didnt want to hold the pressure. I think that the wastegates springs needs to be replaced. I think that at 1.5bar we could get an additional 50rwhp. Let me tell you that we did NO tuning, NO timing adjustments, NO Nitrous. Basically we took the car to the dyno, switch the boost controller on and we got that numbers. Very impressive. The mods on the car are: 1. Greddy TD-05 kit 16G 2. Greddy FMIC 2 ROW 3. Nismo 555cc 4. JWT ECU tuned for twin intake and 555 5. Twin Blitz intake. 6. 1.2mm tomei head gaskets. We have done absolutely no mods on the engine apart from the head gaskets. So basically its completely stock. I will post the dyno tomorrow.

Images are scanned and not from a digital camera so the quality might not be as good. You can find plenty of images at http://www.cyprusracingcars.com Blue is the winner of the show (my bothers), white one is from a guy who used to leave in UK and its been featured in many magazines in UK so you probably know it. The silver Z is mine. As you can see is very different from the 300zx original silver. I have spend 2.5 months to paint it myself. I had no experience in painting and I decided to learn how to paint by finding sources from the Internet. I builded a wooden house on the balcony and I paint it piece by piece. I think I did a very good job. What u think?

Also just for you to know that the car is sick. I race him yesterday with 13PSI of boost and he only 6PSI (safety boost) on third gear and he kicked my ass. I coudnt believe it but to tell you the truth I am very happy for my loss because now I know what the VG30 can do with a Greddy TD-05 kit. Also the sound of the 2 external wastegates is even louder than a Suzuki GSXR 1100. Its a frigthening experience to have him coming from behind. Got damn it. I need money quickly. :)

Tattooman i just send you one taken from my mobile. Quality its crap and it doesnt reflect the cars beauty. In that picture you will see a model from a UK magazine sitting in the car taking pictures for the magazine. Wait until evening to develop the film and by tomorrow i will put more.

Thats was a 2 day event last weekend where the best cars all over Cyprus showed up. Skylines, Supras, RX-7, Imrpezas, EVO, BMW M3 everything you can imagine. But the Z won the first place and will be featured in the next months issue of BURN OUT magazine. Let me tell you a little bit about my borthers 300ZX. Its an awesome machine. Thousands of people attend the event and most of them said that they never seen such a beatifull car. 18" wheels, Veilside CII bodykit, 2 12" subwoofers and another 2 15" subwoofers at the back, together with a 20lb bottle of NOS in the middle. The color of the car is Blue (from the new version of Impreza). If you see his engine bay you will get blind. Everything chrome in combination with gold colour. I was one of the people strongly supporting that Veilside CII bodykit its a bit too much for the Z until I saw it in person. My Wingwest bodykit its no comparison to that. I know I said too much without any photos. I will try and scan some tomorrow and post them. One more time a 14 year old car kick the ass of all its compretitors.

I have taken my headlights apart and I want to make them look chrome clear on the inside (the black plastic). One way is to paint them with chrome paint but i dont think it will look that good. I was wondering if anyone knows any place in UK where they can chrome plastic Thanks

I cannot comment about the mirror but I can comment about the war. Why US went there in the first place? Bush told that Sadam owns mass distruction chemicals and whatever other crap. So far they didnt find any. But they are still there. Also UK went there for the same reason. Right? Well, my opinion is that whatever US decides to do, UK follows also. If US decides now to pull out UK will do that also. It seems that UK goverment or Blair is acting like a trained dog that is doing whatever is boss is telling it to do. They went there and they destroy the entire country and they arrest Sadam. So whats next. Find the terrorist? I wonder who they are now...I am watching the news every day and so far I dont understand whats the point of this war.

I am developing lots of them today and I will find a scanner and post them in the next couple of days.

Did you get your conversion done?

I thought about that as well. Actually the kit comes with its own twin intake setup that goes on stock location and sits on top of the intercooler (not behind) just right under the center panel. Thats why I am thinking of getting a vented nose panel to allow the air to go directly to the intakes. But relocating them its not a bad idea either. I am about to do some custom job on the car and probably if I find the space I will relocate them to the left and right. Hows your build up going?

Well I had the time during my holidays to install the Greddy 3 Row FMIC on my Z. The final result looks awsome but with some costs of course. Car gets warmer now due to the fact that no air can enter the engine bay to cool down the radiator. Also I left the oil cooler temporarily at its stock location until i get the Greddy one which i am about to relocate on the left side of the car. I am not having any overheading issues but water tempretures are higher now than before. (5-9ceclious). Maybe its also because summer its getting closer and temps are higher than before. The tempreture conclusions are based on my digital SBC-ID meter reading which i am getting directly from the ECU. Doing such a mod (in my opinion) you have to get an aftermarket radiator, larger oil cooler and a vended ducted nose panel. I am getting all three of them soon and I will see how everythings going. In terms of performance: I can feel the turbos now kicking hard at 4K where before they were somewhere 3.5K (But thats on stock turbos and I also believe one of them its going bad also). But the power that the car makes now its much more than before. I can tell that my 3rd gear pull is as close as to 2nd gear at 14.5 PSI. But thats based on my opinion without any dyno proof, so dont take my word seriously :) Overall i am happy with it. Bit by bit the beast will get alive

Pass me any link if u know

Ola amigos :) I still need to tune it. I am waitting for the RPS staff to arrive soon (NProbe also) and then I'll take it to the mechanic for some engine work. Need to advance my timing also. But i can drive it and we can meet sometime these days.

Its been a year now since I am having cold startup problems. When car is cold and start it up, RPMS drop and engine shut down. I had to keep the RPMS high until car gets warm and then it was fine. I am not using the car frequently so I didnt pay too much attention. Lately i decided to do a bit of research and found that the Idle Air Regulator might be the problem. Today i swap it with one that I knew it was working and problem is solved. Thanks to the forums always.

You can use the vaccum of the recirc valves but you have to block the recirc valves when you remove the vaccum. If not you will have a leak. But my suggestion is to remove the stock ones completely and put the hks to the stock location. Then no worries.

I have replaced the entire EFI harness and I also put a new Coolant tempreture sensor. Still I have same problem. My problem is not erratic idle. It starts but it doesnt keep the RPS's high enough to get the car warm up. It goes immidiately down and sometimes it dies. I suspect Air Regulator valve, or TPS, or MAS. But if anybody knows anything more I would like to hear.

When the car is cold and you start it up the RPMs should go somewhere around 1800 and then drop slowly as the car heats up until RPMS goes up to normal. Around 700-800 Thats how my car used to be. Now it goes up to 1800 and then drops down immidiately. Sometimes it stays up to 600 and sometimes it shuts down. When it gets hot its fine. What might be the problem?

I bought a brand new OEM EFI harness for my TT ZX. Today I try to install it but I am stuck. Has anybody attempted to replace the harness without removing the engine? Actually the engine is not my obstacle. I manage to remove the rubber cover thats sits between the firewall (outside the car), i remove the bolt that is next to it, I remove my ECU, I remove the tierack thats a bit further up the ECU but now its stack. I try to pull the harness out but i only manage to move it 12cm. Now its stack. DO i need to remove the dashboard? If anybody has any clue please let me know

I just put a new Coolant Temp Sensor and I want to measure the voltage? Do you know in what range is should be?

Well actually it doesnt run properly at all. I bought a new Temp Sensor and new OEM EFI harness waitting to be installed. Now I am just trying to take some readings from the ECU to my Blitz SBC-ID device and I am trying to find out which pins to use from my ECU. But if this what you are saying is right then it makes sense. I shouldnt get any readings from the ECU pin (Coolant Temp Sensor) because mine is ruined. I manage to get A/F readings to the SBC and it looks quite cool. Especially with the graph. :)

Currently the temp engine readings comes from the coolant temp sensor? Mine is disconnected and I still get readings on my stock gauge

When car is warmed up temp gauge goes little bit less than half. I want to install a temp gauge and read the temp in celcious and i want to know where to connect it. Do u know the ECU pin number for that?