Slick Pete.

Yep . Leaving bare metal panels for more than a day is a :nono: . especially in cold damp unheated garages etc. Remember too that primer is not watertight and leaving primed panels in damp/wet conditions may result in problems later. Dont use the metal prep stuff over primer tho... only on bare metal.

You posted the link in yer first post Vijay ;) I agree with Ossian about wire brush in angle grinder too as an alterative but you will need to take the wing off (again!!) to get access to it all

Well in that case you will just have to wait till you fit them and see who is right wont you :D

I too am sorry to hear about your problems Alex but I have to agree with znut. Given the fact that rebuilding a TT gbox costs several hundred pounds just in parts never mind the labour it does sound highly unlikely that anyone would sell a good second hand box for £200. IMO dont waste money on buying expensive MT90. The box you have is fubared and no amount of MT90 will mend it. Only new synchro cones and other new parts will fix it.

No. The overheat light doesnt normally come on once the heat sensors are removed.

Get it beadblasted . then treat it with the POr metal prep just before you put the etch primer on. Bare metal rusts within 24 hours of being cleaned if you dont treat it properly.

IMO you will need to retain a (small) expansion box up the front end of the system on an NA. Otherwise you may lose power at lower revs. The expansion chamber creates a low pressure area to assist more efficient gas extraction at low engine revs. Doesnt apply to turbo cars as the turbo forces gases down the pipe. The noise etc is manly determined by the silencer at the rear as expansion boxes dont normally contain any packing material.

Yep. I agree. at the end of the day I view my cars as "big boys toys" I only buy stuff if I can afford it... play (hard) with it and when it breaks or I get bored its time to discard it. If there is any money to come back then great. If its worth nowt ... then it doesnt matter(to me)

Version S Convertible superseded the original in 95 and ran till Oct98 :) But I bet there aint many around :cool:

I have bought a new one!! And its RED!!!!! :tongue:

I dont think so, but I dont really know as I have given up on the car and its being dis-assembled :cry:

The two bushes that mount the rear of the diff in to the subframe are prime suspects. I had this on my Black NA. Both bushes were completely shot.

I feel a warm glow in my wallet :rofl: :rofl:

Wot she said!!! At least the badge is the correct one , and its only small. Them mirrors are something else tho :smash:

Exactamente!!

Gerroff!!! :slap: ITS ALL MINE!! Soon as the weather warms up I will get "the other bumper" painted... :hyper: . and maybe fit the CF bonnet too...... :nana2: And them wheels....... Oh and then some of my own "bling" and then...... ;)

I think most of us will need to be very lucky to get any 99 spec cars here . I suspect that many of these late cars are already safely tucked away in enthusiasts garages in Japan and wont be offered on general sale. :cry: There are just as many enthusiasts out there as there are hear. however people like Lee will be well placed to find any out for sale with his connections to specialist garages over there. Not many will get to the big auctions I dont imagine :nono:

Yeah?? :confused: Is that right??? :confused: Deffo NOT IMO. ;) Find me a little Version S 2 Seater NA manual slicktop, would need to be in one of the unique 99 colours tho..... Lightning Yellow or Sonic Silver. optional BBs wheels and HIDs would be good too :D :D

The 99 spec 300ZX was indeed introduced in Oct 98. Nissan announced it on Oct 7th. Production figures were extremely low. Total production for 97 was only 1024 cars for the whole year. Dec 97 had only 40 cars registered. so expect 98 and 99 figures to me worse than that.... much worse. Anecdotal comments by Brian Long in his book mention monthly sales dropping in to single figures. :shock: :cry:

Paid on paypal. :hyper: Tough luck I will be here another year :p Money from Pmaczc.

Rear shoes are Nissan Only. Adjusters are probably broken on the headlights..Ie they turn but nothing adjusts!!! Replacements from Nissan for the small ones which break, but if the toothed wheel on the headlamp body itself is split too then you might need to use the "Airfix kit" solution.

Not really. The blade isnt long enough to do a 300ZX window. Just get some proper wire for the job. Most Autoglass and similar fitters have it by the reel. They can usually be persuded to part with some for a drink!!

Well I did warn you...quote..As always the most important rule is NEVER PRISE or PRY. You must cut thru ALL the bonding agent. The glass then (literally) falls out. Dont drop it!!!! quote :slap: You dont use the stanley blade much. Just to make a hole in one place to insert the "cheesecutter type wire" The whole cutting job is done with the wire. :D

Where did you appear from????? Bloody forum "police" are everywhere. ;) :rofl: :rofl:

Well Russ is on Zclub forum most of the time so I guess the car is OK. Just pop over and ask???? And dont forget to buy a "proper Zed" when you get to OZ. No more lardy 2+2s :x: