Stephen

Get your hands on the enthusiasts companion book, they went through various designs including a mid engine one, a v8 and the 4wd. I think the skylines 4wd system came from one of the z32s shelved designs. It's worth looking at the Nissan Mid4 which is like a hybrid between what the z32 and r32 ended up with and arguably where the NSX came from.

You do pay a prememium for a direct import, but they are generally in better knick than cars that are over here. I take your point about your slickie but that was getting on for two years ago? And obviously the last car (99 or not) was an NA. If you had £3800 in your pocket right now, what could you get?

Now there's a weird one! Yeah my elbows were 90'. When I got my decat/testpipes I was sat there looking at it and I would if needed an adapter of 45' (there's also a side angle too) they simply wouldn't fit. Maybe there's some variation between between markets, is yours a Euro spec spiff? I think he has the lower picture Richie provided mated to the stock elbows. The upper picture is what I have as a complete assembly, you can't intermix those because of the 45' flange. This is why we need some pictures to establish exactly what's fitted.

Appologies for the crap quality, just scrawled it out while the dog was out for his last wee :lol: hopefully you can see how some configurations are coatings and some not.

Yeah basically. Give me a sec and il scribble it down.

That would replace from turbo to cat back. So yes it would suit however you'd be discarding your current down pipe/centre section. It's hard to explain the difference other than to say one has a 90' flange the other 45'. Il do you a little sketch if your still struggling. It caught me out when I brought mine some years back.

I thought you said it wasn't the loom and you'd checked it and Lee had fitted new plugs? :confused:

Those are questions only you can answer mate.

I think that's pretty fair and a comparable comparison. Esp when you can prove a lot more what's occurred with Cat c or d. My gut suspicion is this car is a stolen recovered. The original owner then probably had to reregister his own car. Do you know the why's exactly Chris? The why and how you can prove it vastly effect the price tag IMO but it will never be worth full money just as a cat D isn't.

If I'm being totally honest, if I went to see a car that the chassis number had been sanded off and the vin plate removed alarm bells would be ringing. In fact even when you stood there and told me, "oh it's all legit, the DVLA sorted it" etc I'd need very compelling proof of this otherwise I'd be making my excuses and saying thanks but it's not the one for me. Whilst I can see what's occurred and don't doubt your telling the truth as an impartial buyer is be suspicious of the car and the story you were telling me. Put it this way, imagine you were a young lad wanting to buy it and you'd taken your dad along. What would your dad be saying to you? You asked for honesty, sorry.

I wouldn't worry too much, they are both the same diameter, just a subtle couple of differences. Some people choose to fit the ones you may have to retain a bit more back pressure on the turbos and add extra quietness to the system. The best thing to do is take a few pictures and post them up and then we can can see exactly what you have. If you've got decats already and jap spec elbows (ie with no precats) then I doubt switching will make a huge difference. Could be wrong though. What makes a good gain is going from stock to full elbows etc. Even that's more about power delivery than power out right.

If you just want the turbo elbows off then yeah, completely do able. In fact I do that before any kinda major work in that area to free up space. The problem is getting them off when they haven't moved for 20+ years, rust, heat cycling etc etc, not fun. If you've got stock elbows and japspeed front pipes I'm guessing you have the NA version with the silencers in them? The Turbo version won't match up. If you google it you will see they are completely different. Virtually all the aftermarket stuff the flange is 45' where as stock it's 90'. Hard to explain.

Hook up a vac gauge to your oil dip stick tube and see how much back pressure there is or isn't. If the rear seal had failed you wouldn't get any oil in the system, just grey smoke from oil evaporating. If it's blue it's being combusted.

Yeah loads of people, that's what z1 call the gt525 kit. The T28 is a better core and rebuild costs are the same as they use the same kit. Don't forget the cost to machine the housings would be additional.

Certainly seems that way doesn't it. Built in insolence they call it, the alarmist would say if it's got a chip in it, it's got a date when when its programmed to fail. How many mobile phones last more than 2-3 years, enough to be out of contract...

No, I wouldn't dream of pulling the plenum yet. Just perform an Ohm test, this involves putting a meter across the injector and seeing what resistance it has. It may have failed and not open. Also as I've already had loom issues the cable may be broken further back so you must test for a complete circuit. As Pete suggests a noid light is the easiest way to do this.

Thing is though and what seems to be being missed and is so very vital in that case. What turbos are we using that aren't OEM specs? Most, say 80% of the turbo kits for sale by the likes of Z1 are simply stock turbos from different models reapplied. The only ones that are used often is the gt525, which is a t28 core in t25 housing. Gt535 kit uses a gt2554 and gt600 thats a pair of gt2860. You can and I assume they do buy these straight off the shelf from Garret (owned by Honeywell btw). Stock turbos on a z32 btw are actually hybrids. If turbos fitted to the Z aren't lasting as long as the factory originals, then there's only two options. Either Garret have dropped the ball and aren't making turbos as well or they are being fitted incorrectly. There is no reason if it fitted correctly your gt600 kit shouldn't last as long as the turbo the an S15 left the factory with. I spose abuse is also a factor but that's also a factor with stock, arguably more as people push them further than what they were designed for to eeek out extra ponies. Rather than running a bigger turbo softer.

Good, that's a fair but covered. Ohm test the injector next. When you say you checked the connector what did this comprise of?

Have you done any diagnostics yet? Such as Ohm testing the injectors and ensuring the circuit it there from the ECU? How did you conclude its the injector not providing fuel as aposed to a no spark fault?

I'm not quite sure how these companies are measuring light colour to reach these K numbers. They always appear lower than reality. 5-6500K is daylight white, yes white. The 6500k shown often is way more blue, more like 8k. Even 10k should be bright but not blue blue. Proper like navy blue is 20k. It's worth pointing out that brightness itself isn't everything and colour has a bearing on the penetration of light, particularly in fog or rain. As an extreme example look at how colour is lost in seawater. You will notice how much further blue light travels. Anyone who's seen emergency services in the fog will know this. That blue just travels and travels. There is another factor here though about colour tempreture and power efficiency, you need more power generally to create high K colour to the same brightness. In short a good quality white to slightly blue light will provide good penetration and brightness per watt. Sorry information overload but might be interesting to some I spose.

You don't know the half of it. :lol:

Agreed, let's watch and wait. It's worth what someone (not necessarily you or I) are willing to part with for it. £20k is pocket money for many people in this country, some (stupid, potentious and extremely wealthy) people spend more on dinner out. Let's try not to talk it down. It sells for what it sells, if it sells.

Your his best man!? :lol: oh that was a stupid mistake. I hope the stag do is still to come, I see lampposts and cling film in his near future. :thumbup:

More than likely it's ingested into the engine from the breather system. The stock design is ok, but it's major flaw is the cam cover vent location as these are too low and only on one head. Oil can poolin the head and be sucked up by the breather. In the turbos front seal is failing you will see oil residue heavily in the intercooler loop, and in worse cases when you boot it the pool that builds up in the intercooler language will be sucked up and burnt resulting in blue smoke on acceleration. The most common failure in stock turbos is oil out the rear seal, presenting itself as grey smoke that is noticeable particularly on a warm engine at idle, due to the reduced rotation of the shaft and on deceleration. The rear seal on stock tubs isn't the best, the larger and later t28 is although the same core better in this respect. From what I've read the failure of stock turbos or smoking is often down to poor oil changes and bad driving habits of both the turbo/engine and the breather system. Whilst the oil drain is quite big the galleries to it are quite small and coke up easy. The turbo core, esp being a journel bearing overfills with oil quite easily and presto smoke.

Good to know. Il be using t28s for various reasons including cost and serviceability.