ashleydc

I didn't think to compare them once I'd removed the old ones. It's running perfectly now, it was a bit rough on part throttle with the old ones. They come with the correct plug, too. ?

Finally got round to replacing my knackered oxygen sensors. The pair were only £85 delivered, including import duty. I thought I'd post it, as it seemed like a good deal. They arrived in 6 days. https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bosch-13091-Oxygen-Sensor-/152779941235#vi__app-cvip-panel

Thanks to everyone for their help, especially Jeff and Nick. I finally got the time to look at it. I removed the plugs, left it overnight and put a new set in the next day, it started immediately. The plugs were quite black, which I've put down to my disconnected o2 sensors and using the wrong plugs. I was running bcr8es which are probably too cold for my OAP driving style. I've replaced them like for like, but I'm going to get some platinums ordered.

Thanks for the comprehensive reply Jeff. I'll recheck the temperature sensor connector and I've ordered some new plugs. Once they arrive, I'll be able to leave them out overnight and make sure it's not flooded.

I'm afraid I haven't got the genuine part numbers, I replaced the calipers once I noticed the seals were knackered.

I rebuilt my calipers with a kit from bigg red, but they started sticking about 3 years later. When I inspected them, the dust seals had perished. When I did my Volvo recently, I used a genuine kit, I wouldn't use bigg red again.

I didn't have 12v at the coil pack connectors, so I bypassed the relay which solved that, but it still wouldn't start. I re-tried the relay and I'm now getting 12v. The relay could be faulty, but since I've got a spark and 12v at the coils, I don't think that's a problem at the moment. My only thought now is that maybe the faulty relay caused the initial problem, which fouled the plugs causing it to still not start. I'm probably clutching at straws, but other than that I'm stumped.

Thanks, I've been following that as best as I can without anyone to turn the key while I'm messing.

Thanks for the kind offer, but I'm a bit pushed for time at the moment, so I'll order some and get them delivered.

Thanks for the advice, I did remove a plug to test the spark. They were quite wet with fuel, which I was expected because it was cranking without actually firing, they didn't seem too bad though. I think it's probably worth trying some new plugs to eliminate them.

That was the first thing I did when it wouldn't start, I know how bad the connections can end up after a few years.

I haven't used my zed much lately and the last couple of times I've started it, it's run rough for the first mile then it's been fine. I just put this down to damp through lack of use and didn't think much of it. I tried to start it today and it turns over, but won't start. I can hear the fuel pump priming when I turn the ignition on and I've got a spark. I removed the cas and turned it by hand and I can hear the injectors firing. Has anyone got any suggestions ?

I was after a seatbelt in good working order, for my JDM zed (Door mounted). It's a series 1, I'm not sure if that makes any difference?

Do you have to remove the Targa to get out?

It's because of a house I'm considering buying. It's got two garages, but no space to make either of them any bigger. It's a deal breaker if I can't fit the zed in!

I don't suppose anyone knows the minimum width of garage needed to fit the zed in and still be able to get out?

Just a quick post to say thanks to Lee Dent for sorting out my slight running issue, my car runs perfectly now.:thumbup1:

I went a few years ago on my motorbike, it's an amazing place! It's so difficult to learn and you find yourself needlessly braking for corners that could be taken flat if you know the circuit. My advice would be to learn it on a computer game first, to get the most out of it, I wish I had. The roads around the circuit are really good too and surfaced nicely.

Cheers Jeff, I know it's not the EGR because you disconnected it a few years ago. I'll have to start checking a few things. I just thought I'd check first in case it all pointed to something obvious.

My TT runs perfectly under most conditions, but it can be quite lumpy under very light throttle. It's basically when the throttle is barely touched, like while maintaining 20 mph, or accelerating really slowly in traffic. If you press it a couple of extra millimeters, it runs fine and it's perfect when driven hard. Has anyone got any suggestions?

I used the hydrate 80 today and I'm waiting for the por 15 to be delivered. It states that it breaks down when exposed to uv light. I wondered if I'd get away without using a top coat being as it's under the car? Has anyone got experience of this?

I don't suppose anyone knows how much POR15 I would need for a fairly large car? Ignore that, I've just found that 1 pint does approximately 50 square feet.

Thanks for the replies. I've already got some hydrate 80, I used it on my last volvo. I like the bilt hamber products, I've used the dynax s50 cavity wax on my zed before. I'll probably give the POR 15 a go.

I was after opinions on the best coating for the underneath of my old Volvo daily driver?

I sheared two of the six studs when I swapped my decats. It wasn't that difficult to drill them out and replace them with bolts. This worked a treat drilling them out, if you get stuck. Can't remember the exact size off the top of my head. http://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-10mm-extreme-2-hss-drill-bit/32213