Clarkey

Alunox (search the forum for details) will build you a top quality custom exhaust to whatever your specification. IMO, for the best sound go for decat pipes and a single exit, but most are put off by the looks.

probably should open and close quickly. Also they should be closed firmly at idle , if not the spring is too weak. If they are slightly open at idle they will let in unmetered air, which will cause a bad idle and hesitation.

stands a chance, but that deffo aint stock.

And these ones will fit under 18" rims? :p Anyway, very nice :cool:

a GTS is slower and looks like a mundane car. The GTR goes really well and with the beefed up arches and various body parts it looks pretty macho.

Needs to be a GTR imo, anything else is a serious downgrade.

hmm well in a stock 300 the ATF will certainly be upwards of 82C, as said, the coolant is about 80c in the rad so thats the minimum temperature it will enter the box at, and it will only get hotter during its time inside the box.

get eibachs tbh, a well proven spring setup on the zed. If you don't want to then one piece of advice, don't get Koni springs, I have heard nothing but bad things about them.

actuator has nout to do with fuelling.

approx. 4l, check it on the dipstick. There was a thread on this the other day, book says 3.5l but this amount barely shows on the dipstick.

Deffinatly! Putting a battery in a zed will ruin your back if its allready dodgy!

nice! bet that cost you a tidy sum :p

Stick a thread in the wanted forum, there are always people on here ripping their a/c out.

Deffinatly, with no cooler at all it will fry in no time. Not driven mine since fitting an external one, but beforehand the box got hot enough that you could feel the heat through the tunnel!

You could argue that an EBC is more dangerous than jets. Afterall with an EBC you don't have safety boost any more.

You cleaned up your throttle bodies? If you haven't then do it, and while you're at it, pull the hose off the Idle air valve and spray some carb cleaner in there too. Other than that, a conzult or datascan is the way to go. Hook one up, set the TPS to 0.44v at idle, and make sure the 'closed throttle switch' is ON, if it isn't then unplug the connector on the front of the TPS for a short while and put it back on, it will reset. After that, use the base idle adjustment, and adjust the screw on the side of the IAV so that the rpm is about 650/700. After this, the idle should sit steady at 750 with the a/c off and 800/850 with the a/c on. If it doesn't, then a vacuum leak is likely.

Done 2 of them now :p, willing to take on abother one if you feel like bringing it to the midlands, be a bit of an honour doing a 99 spec tbh. And yeah, lets see it! What colour?

I imagine that is VPN software, most of the time it is impossible to change your own IP.

a lot of broadband services give you a static IP anyway so theres no changing it. Only reaosn you would want to is if you are up to no good anyway ;)

come on now, with the a/c off that pulley spins compeltely freely, extremely small amount of drag. And if you didn't want it, you would just throw the whole lot away and be done with.

no, it won't

Yep, if the gas pressure is too low the compressor won't engage to prevent damage.

Why would anyone remove the belt if the compressor wasn't knackered? Sounds like it needs re-gassing. Does your irle rpm change at all when you turn it on and off?

lol i'll go try and get a pic of it done..

wanna make sure your dad doesn't throw this one out ;) lol