Yowser

Its incorrectly used as a broad term. Ofcourse its far better to call a Machinest an Engineer than it is to call the guy that fitted my Sky TV dish an Engineer though. But an Engineer is an academic term, for a professional that uses Mathematic and scientific knowledge to design a system. A simplified model of a system, such as a car engine , would be - A Engineer designs it. A Technician builds it. A Mechanic maintains it.

You make a fair point Gaz, and one thats found in any professional role really. Experience is so important. A good share of theoritical and pratical skills is key. I see a real mix of fellow students, some very hands-on mechanically but may struggle with some of the hardcore maths displinces, and others who enoy nothing more than calculating thermodynamic efficiences but have never really turned a spanner. But this is irrelevent really to the point I was making, about the protection of job titles. Your reply seems very hostile, as if you took offence to my post? Your job is highly skilled, no doubt about that at all, but the use of the title is not about the skill of ones job. A Lawyer wouldn't call himself an Architect. And its not employee's fault, the job title your given is what your given.

Wasn't doubting your Plumbing skills Alan. What I meant was an Engineer is somebody who has done the 4+ years of Studying an Engineering degree, just as a Medical Doctor or Lawyer has to do. Engineering is basically applied Mathematics, or as a collegue put it the other day "Its Maths...but Louder" In other countries you can only be called an Engineer if you have the apppriate degree qualifications, and often only if you have gained full chartered status. Its one of the hardest degree qualifications you can earn and also one of the highest paid and highly sought after professions, but its value is somewhat demeaned in the UK by every other job out there having the term engineer incorrectly tagged onto it. I've incorrectly had an engineer job title myself a couple of times in the past, and its mistakingly used everywhere, usually in technician(skilled labour) type roles, but you can get served by a "produce engineer" at your local Tesco's. :sad: /end of thread Hijack, sorry lol.

lol Some of the ways the ole insurance computers calculate premiums. ...but dont get me started on the whole "engineer" job title thing, boils my blood the way its used in this country. In other countries the title is legally protected like "Dr." is, and is as highly regarded.

Murdock, your thread title is confusing as to which lights your after... "JDM 90-96 300ZX Z32 Tail Lights" All 89-98 Tail lights are the same for all markets. (Orange and red). Im presuming what your actually after is JDM 99-00 Tail lights ? (red and clear). We commonly refer to them as "99spec Rear lights" in the UK. The U.S sites often incorrectly use the term JDM when they actually are talking about 99spec parts, and they list 90-96 as the years as thats the only years the Z32 was available for in the U.S Dont want you to mistakingly order the wrong lights.

Speak to MJP first. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=38 An Independent Nissan parts dealer and fully authorised Club trader. Cheaper than Main dealers which are already cheaper than places like Zcentre. On some parts prices wont be that different, as there is minimal profit to be had, but on many parts prices can litterally be twice as much.

In that case old civic 0-100 - 16 secs 300zx NA 0-100 - 16 secs 300zx TT 0-100 - 13.5 secs (11.5 secs with basic mods - 1bar) Comparable to a NA Z in stock form.

If were talking about the old, old Ek9 Type-r then the 0-100mph test is even more telling of a cars true performance old civic 0-100 - 17.5 secs 300zx NA 0-100 - 16 secs 300zx TT 0-100 - 13.5 secs

MJP in traders section for all oem parts , or even your local Nissan dealer.

Sure, any car can be tuned to be quick, with the right money and the right know how. Its the the Pub style honda fan boy attitude your pushing thats raising eyebrows. As for drag racing, we dont have a lot of Z owners who are into drag racing in the UK, hence the relatively limited recorded times on the Z leader board. Stock tested time is 13.8 secs for the Manual TT, but there are plenty of Z's in the states in the 12's and 11's and all the way down to the 8's for street legal cars. A stock TT will do 0-100mph in high 13 secs. However with basic mods that time drops to mid 11 secs and a top speed of 180'ish. To put that in comparison the stock Type-R does it in 16 secs and tops out at about 145mph As for how quick it hits high speeds....I've lost count the amount of times I've acclerated a little to overtake another car on the motorway and accidently found myself at over twice the legal UK speed limit without meaning too. There are less powerfull but lighter cars that can give the Z a run for its money at lower speeds, but they dont compare at high speed. Its one of the better cars out there for High speed and never fails to impress. It has even held the high speed world record for its class for the past 20 years.

I thougth you were being sarcastic in your 1st post, but your actually serious. Light and revvy it may be, but Vtec power deliver is waaay laggier than a TT Z. Its like a fitting a big turbocharger to a small engine. Plus its got bugger all torque. A stock type-r is more comparable to a NA Z, one of the downsides to the NA - being a match for boyracer hatchbacks. As for a 240hp one...if it can get traction then it would be close to a Stock TT at low speeds, but weight becomes less important as speed increases, and torque becomes more important. As for a TT with typical mods, no contest.

Im shocked at the quotes your getting. Im a little older, at 30, but I just got quoted £390 on my Import TT, without any ncb. That was just using the regular comparison sites like comparethemarket.com and confused.com If it its down to your address....got any relatives that live elsewhere... ;)

Definatly a SWB with what looks like a stealth style subwoofer install over the fuel tank cover. Its probably incorrect details with DVLA. Ebay propogates the title field automatically when you give it your reg.

Jap Spec - nothing, except perhaps for the tyres Uk Spec rears - 100-150 ish a pair, depending on tyres

I cant find any on zcentre. The eBay one is fine if your just after it for looks. If you want a functional brace then avoid any with hinges or adjustment Check splparts.com and powertrix.com for Carbing or similar

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11

Sounds like you havent activated/registered the software yet?

The usb adaptors are nothing but trouble. I seem to recall there being info on the blazt website about adaptors and alternative drivers.

Great cars. I ran a Black e34 535i Sport (3.5 litre straight six) for 5 years before I got into Z's. Admittadly they are getting pretty dated these days, but they have a feel of quality and solid engineering above most modern stuff and they still turn my head on the rare occasions I see a nice example on the road.

Its a definatly a car that appeals more to men than women, but we have quite a few female owners on here. My wife was not a fan when I got my 1st zed, but after a while she made me get her one of her own, which she ran for 2 years before we came to our senses over running 2 Z's as daily drivers.

Its easy..............take the Z instead :p

Intake and exhast valves out of correct sync, as you crank it over to perform a compression test more air is entering than exiting.....more pressure.

1st 3.214 2nd 1.925 3rd 1.302 4th 1 5th 0.752 FD 3.692

The NA has a higher compression ratio than the TT. But even so, Its max limit should be 186. Being over this is not an indication of a healthy engine unfortunatly. If high in only 'some' cylinders it typically indicates high carbon build up. But since all your results were high, its most likely that either the tester was at fault or that your timing is out by a tooth or more. I would suggest having your timing checked.

Providing the test is performed correctly - (Engine warm, all plugs removed, throttle open, healthy battery, dry test), then in my opinion and experience : 140-160 psi is a realistic figure for a healthy, but used TT engine. 174 psi max. 150-170 psi is a realistic figure for a healthy, but used NA engine. 186 psi max. Anything less than 130 for the TT or 140 for the NA would interest me to investigate further. Also, Nissan reccomend a maximum difference of no more than 14psi (1bar) between cylinders.