Yowser

What is the Make & model of the Clutch ? Where is the biting point ? Have you checked for any oil leaks around the gearbox bellhousing ?

I believe the other 4 nuts, are for swapping with the already fitted adjustment locking nuts. They should be narrower than those already on there....making the arm shorter when fully wound in to achieve more toe out than otherwise provided by the existing nuts.

Mechanical - You need to feed pressurised hot oil and water pipes into your interior. Electrical - Sender units reside in the Engine bay and you just feed a electrical wire into the Interior. Mechanical is fine for Boost, and is the only type really fitted as mechanical these days, but stick to Electrical for the others.

Sorry , I meant to say 2500rpm, not 3500rpm for a 4.10 diff. Was a typo. You may well be correct about the turbos , i hope you are. If it's spinning in 3rd with good tyres it would suggest so, but I think your reading a little too much into the cars other upgrades though. Upgrading discs and pads is very typical , it's a basic modification with most owners complaining about stock brakes. Many owners even fit full big brake kit conversions on z's with standard turbos. Things like brakes and suspension are very common upgrades , turbo upgrades are quite rare. If you get the issues sorted you could have a real animal on your hands :)

yep, thats propshaft related. Sounds like either the two halves of the propshaft were not realigned the same way, so its now out of balance. When seperated they need to be marked (tipex for example) and joined up the same way again. You can fix/check by reseperating the propshaft , turning one end 180degree's and refitting. or it was fitted with the bearing carrier bolt spacers missing or in the wrong place, so its out of align.

....double post..

Tyre brand (or model really) definatly plays a part. Their is a big difference in traction between something like a Nankang and a Goodyear F1. A balance bar not seated properly would cause boost and vacumn leaks. Affecting boost pressure and fueling, and subsequently increasing lag/spool up. 3000rpm in 3rd gear is 48mph. The highest ratio diff available on the market for the Z would still only be at 3500rpm at 35mph in 3rd. The Z uses smaller turbos than the Skyline, 200sx...etc They are Hybrid Garrett TB22's, which are similar to T25's but smaller. Got a pic of the rear brakes ? Im curious as to what they have fitted. The number of bolts on the exhaust housing to downpipe gives an indication of size. Bascially if its 4bolt then its either stock or stock with machined internals at best. Anything larger turbo will have a 5bolt setup really. If you do have larger turbos, then the Mines ECU you have fitted would also have incorrect mapping for the turbos. You can test for error codes from Safety mode like this or this.

The stock Z turbos suffers from less lag than most turbocharged cars. Small turbos, big engine = minimal lag. It does'nt really have a strong kick-in, its more of a smooth progressive power delivery. If you were on standard turbos and getting 0.4-0.5 bar (6-7psi) then you would either have a boost leak or the car is in safety mode. Either of these would cause Increased lag. That would'nt explain, what sounds like good performance your experiencing though. Although either you were on a patch of oil or your mistaken about the gear or speed, because 3rd gear at 35mph is only about 2300rpm. The Z standard turbos dont have ceramic wheels and are fine at over 1bar (14.5psi) , and produce power up to around 1.25bar (18psi), before they produce too much heat to be efficient. Stock boost is 9.5psi(0.65 bar) Check to see if the turbos have a 4 or 5 bolt connection from turbo to downpipe.

It does look like AIV vacumn pipes but I cant be sure from those pics, this may help :

1. ABS and Diff temp sendors ? Cant remember the specifics of them but no special tools needed. Are'nt they the Dark red connectors with the tab you need to push in on the side ? Screwdriver to push it in helps, they get very tight. 2. Handbrake, either via the actual Handbrake handle - but does mean having to undo it and putting back on a few times to rech all bolts. or. By pulling on the actual handbrake cable itself near the diff, where it splits to each side as you undo them. Having somebody to provide an extra pair of hands helps.

You wont be able to use the PM facilities as a Registered user, but email address is znut@300zx.co.uk but..but....you are a Trader here.....confused :confused:

Go test drive one, see what you think. I've owned 2x TT Manuals, 1x NA Manual, 1x NA Auto , and driven and worked on far more Z's than i can remember over the years .....and IMO : Getting out of a TT and into an NA, yes the NA feels a lot slower. But its not like that if your getting out of a regular car and into the NA. It still a relatively quick car on the road and fun to drive. 0.60 is 6.5-7 secs, about 145mph topspeed The NA needs to be revved harder than the TT to go quickly, you dont get that effortless turbocharged torque pulling it along but the difference in how they feel is greater than the actual on the road difference. Stock for Stock anyway. You can thrash them through the bends and out of roundabouts with less concern about it biting you back and they are lighter and more responsive than the TT. The 3 downsides are : 1. Its very difficult and expensive to make it any quicker than it already is. 2. The TT will see off just about any car your likely to come across on the road, but the NA will have to fight with Hothatches and fast saloons. 3. Your friends will always have a look of dissapointment in there eyes after they ask you if its a Turbo Its a bit more economical and 'potentially' more reliable, although the TT can be more economical on long motorway journeys than the NA and most Z reliablity faults are not directly turbo related. Personally i would take an NA Manual over a TT Auto anyday though. I would'nt go for an NA auto....while the TT manual vs Auto performance is quite close , the NA manual vs Auto difference is more noticable.

That whats the Boot blind is for ;) I personally prefer the SWB Interior, the design flows around the rear seats and wrapping around them in-keeping with the centre console and door design. Which you dont get with the LWB as they had to alter the design to fit the extra seats in. The wheelbase difference is about 5 inches (120mm), and the difference in the way they drive is very noticable.

Always MJP for oem parts.

Both versions are great. I've owned 3 LWB's and used to take weekend trips down to cornwall with the wife, 2 kids, golden retriever and luggage ! Suprisingly praticle for the type of car it is. But when I decided to make the Z a weekend & track toy intead of the family daily driver, I opted for a Slicktop SWB. Not needing the rear seat room for kids meant I could benefit from the shorter more nimble chassis. It offers a sportier drive, and its lighter more rigid body makes it better suited as a base for further track prep. As much as Im fond of the LWB I could never replace the slicktop with one. They are great GT cars but compared to the slicktop they feel lazy and "wobbly" - I you can feel the body flex and shake down the road. In terms of looks, its all about what your used to. For SWB owners they will often say the LWB looks stretched. Whereas LWB owners will say that the SWB looks stumpy. Personally I feel the slicktop is the best looking version - I love the shorter wider looking stance of the SWB and the roofline of the slicktop without targa's breaking it up. But the difference in looks is minimal really. Most people cant tell the difference anyway. Something like 80-90% of Z's in the UK are LWB, which makes it easier to find the right one for you. The SWB being a lot rarer, means it can be difficult finding one to the spec you want, and they tend to be priced a little higher. The Slicktop and Convertibles are by far the rarest. Golf clubs fit in the boot of both versions, or at least they should. Neve tried it myself but one of the original design briefs of the car was that a set of Golf clubs must fit in the boot. The SWB boot is quite a lot deeper than the LWB boot, meaning you can fit stuff in that you could never fit in the LWB. It lacks the space offered by rear seats ofcourse, but the difference in luggage praticalty is less than you would think.

Follow the circuit tracks for "speed in" - that will lead you to the correct plug and wire to cut. Then just follow your instructions that came with the delimiter. I believe the Violet wire is refering to the wires on a different brand speed conveter to what you have. You have a green wire instead.

I think those PDF instructions are tellng you to cut the circuit board track for the 'Speed in' signal and wire the yellow speed converter wire to one side, and your green wire to the other side. Not sure I like that, instead I would just use the diagram to find the correct wire instead. I believe its yellow, and you should be able to follow the circuit track as indicated in those diagrams for the "speedo in" and follow it to the correct plug and wire.

On 2nd look they are not Dare Hiro but they do look familiar. If somebody else can identify them then then you may be able to source one. Unfortuantly many makes change designs every couple of years and stop producing older versions.

From cold idle should be about 1100-1200 Once warn idle shouldbe about 700-800 Turning on the fan on climate control, turns on the Air conditioning, and revs should rise by 100-200. Several causes of unusually high idle, usually simple - such as split vacumn hose or the need to adjust Throttle position sensor, or Idle control valve. Hellraiser has covered the Oil gauge. As said, not very accuate and the boost gauge is no better. The buyer guide linked above shows pictures to indicate what boost gauge should go it. A lot of these cars are running around in safety mode, without owners realising. Usually from failed electrical sensors. This restricts boost, retards timing and uses richer fuel maps......significantly affecting peformance. But if you have never driven a Z before they can still feel very fast. There are a couple of ways to test for safety mode error codes such as here and here Be sure to check for corrosion around the sills, especially just in front of the rear wheels (underneath). The Front bumper is a Strosek replica. Strosek are a german company which originally designed the bumper in partnership with Nissan, with the aim of it being an additional cost option. However the deal fell through and Strosek marketed them itself. Since then there have been several copies of it, this being one of them. Most strosek copies in the UK come from Zcentre.co.uk, i think they call it the venom or something like that. The rest of the kit is replica of veilside and/or bomex and looks like its all come from zcentre too. Its hard to make out in the pics but I think the wheels are Dare Hiro, but again its a nother popular design to replicate.

Spec is to vague to say. Its potentially 400+ , but it really does depend on what spec turbo's its running and how much boost - and how much boost will be largely limited by what injectors and intercoolers its running. Referring to the turbos as Hybrids does'nt tell us anything (even the stock turbo's are hybrids), but Turbo dynamics provide rebuilds from stock to T28r 5bolt size - which gives you a potential power range from approx 350hp-500hp (flywheel), respectively.

All pre-95 Z's are tested as non-cat equipped, and should easily pass this. The tester clearly did'nt know what he was doing, could not find your car on the Database so selected the nearest (incorrect) model. Do you have results for a standard idle test ? If its the rubber brake hose thats failed, then that is a relatively simple replacment. If its the Metal lines, then unfortuantly they are a big job to replace. You need to drop the rear subframe to replace them. For the rear arms the cheapest and simplest option is to get some good condition 2nd hand arms. Alternatively you can get new bushes and have them machine pressed in. Or you can get adjustable arms with spherical bearings fitted.

In terms of single stopping distances, they are actually pretty good. The 300zx has a shorter stopping distance than most modern cars. They lack the initial bite that modern cars have, which can give the incorrect impression that they dont brake as well though. This is for a properly working brake setup ofcourse, which is not actually that typical. Most are running around with sticking caliper pistons, worn discs and pads and old brake fluid. Brake fade is an issue though, and Better discs, Pads and Brake fluid can help. High performance pads have a higher coefficient of friction and tend to have higher operating temperature limits. Some disc designs are more efficient at dissapating heat than others, and modern Dot brake fluids or specific Race Brake fluids have higher operating temperature limits. But if its an issue your often experiencing the best solution is to go bigger. The main purpose of any big brake kit is to improve heat disapation, for reduced brake fade from continued hard use.

and apparantly the S13 200sx, is called a 200x Z13 :rofl: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/200x-Z13-Part-/270740208269?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f095fba8d

He's trying to advertise the car as breaking for parts, the idea being you use the "ask a question" feature to enquire for parts you need. Ebay insist that you cant just advertise as breaking a car and ask people to contact you, you have to actually list an item for the advert..... ....But he's done it in a very poor way, Its a pretty pathetic attempt and he'll be lucky to get any genuine interest with such a shitty advert like that.

FFS...this net connection is a new form of torture. Did it work, I can no longer see any images :headvswal