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I will locate in the morning. Spare plug Lee? So that's for the senders electrics? I need a sender from a breaker then?

Not keen on the spoiler but underneath and your engine bay is so lush :drool: :drool: :drool:.

Seeing as a Series 4 Turbo does not have a boost gauge in the clocks and things have developed for me now to fit one as I have acquired 3 clocks in total over the years so I have lots of spares. I have had to fit the stock oil pressure gauge as the EL dial I had in this location was damaged and no longer lit up and also the needle as never been possible for it to sit correctly on zero :thumbdown:. This now looked odd mainly colour wise and out of balance so I carefully cut away the speedo EL sheet and fit a stock boost gauge to show through this now created space. It looks grand now, both may be stock black against the other EL ones but I am happy but the boost gauge does not work and I need to know why not please? It is bolted in to the clock carcass/circuit board with it's 4 screw bolts so therefore is connected with the car loom - is it possible to make it work? I have an aftermarket boost gauge and a profec II so I don't really need it and I go well over 14psi but I would like it to move about !!

As per title and what does it do? I am talking about the white thing in the foreground, it adjusts and is set in the middle of it's travel. FYI my clocks are series 4.

I agree use this for your signature pic, upload it into photobucket, crop it in slightly and it should work very well. Welcome along - I do like Rotas with a nice stance on a Zed :cool3:.

It's nice Rolandas - he lives down the road from me, very tidy everywhere, much nicer example than yours :tt2:.

It will not run in conjunction with the stock gauge, take it you have the two wires on your water pipe sender, just have the aftermarket wire connected here and you'll find it sits on zero/waiting for your engine to warm up :yes:.

My battery wasn't dead though as it was cranking and cranking like a good un - my immobilizer must of thought that someone was tampering with all my fiddling, on, off, etc. Just done a few jobs on the clocks and over the years of connecting somewhat crudely at times to the sidelight circuit some of my connections on the light pod needed a good tidying so I was doing that today :thumbup1:.

Weird Gary for the first time I have had trouble with mine :crying:. I have been messing this aft as I have the clocks out and been starting, having just ignition on, etc, so lots of key fiddling as I try things. Usually my immobilizer led indication which is separate from my alarm flashes when armed, then when it sensors the key fob goes out and all the clock lights come on and I can start but it wouldn't let me and as I was cranking the led was flashing and this doesn't normally happen, the car just would not start. . I took battery off for a full hour and then re fit........started no problem and all behaved as it should :cool3:.

Congratulations, it's a bit strange not hearing about you bouncing from one Zed problem to another :thumbup1:.

Uncanny I have been working in this area today making everything fine and dandy. Needles just lift off Rich for fitment but be careful. I have EL dials you talk about and have added another tiny sheet to them and this illuminates a central GReddy cutout that is in a aluminium surround from TwinTurboRich, all on a separate dimmer as well that comes with many EL dial kits :thumbup1:. Also, my mentor Groover as done this and I got round to it today, giving out loads of red light to an area that is very stock dimly lit, looks even better once all is snapped together, wired in so it will dim on the pod if necessary with all the needle illumination :cool3:.

I have a HILKA mains charger, it as 2a and 6a charge modes, I always use the 2a and off the car, in the morning the trickle fully charged light is illuminated. Expect I could use it in this mode 24/7 on the car with the same results and without a problem :cool3:.

It's your own silly fault for declaring the DRL's and I use that in the broadest sense :tt2: as replacement like for like headlights will run into thousands, best not to mention bud :crying:.

Instead of having separate sidelights and amber signal in the front crystal indicator lens chambers, I now have just the one 57 SMD switchback chip bulb, normal amber indication when sidelights are off during daylight but with the sidelights switched on and you indicate they alternate between very bright white and amber, turn the indicator off and the sidelights are just that and stay lit of course on that one notch on the pod dial. This gave me the smaller lens chamber free so I have re-introduced this as the JDM 'curb/kerb light', only really because I could basically as it's not bright enough to actually do the job !! These are activated one side at a time when the dipped headlights are on and you indicate that corner :cool3:. I could if I'd of wanted to had these stay on all time as further sidelights but were's the fun in that !! On viewing the vid below keep your eye on the dipped as these are the trigger for the T10 kerb lights to work, the kerb lights do not work when hazard indicators are on which is the situation in the final shots. Hope you like :thumbup1:. [video=youtube_share;ZqN7Udy4rFQ]

I thought one of my Headlights was flickering the other day but put it down to the battery perhaps dying, it worked the next day briefly but then went completely dead. On testing and swapping fuses, bulbs, ballasts about I concluded 100% that it was the ballast to blame :thumbdown:. My kit is nearly 3 years old, ballasts are the old chunky ones, 6000k and the 55w type, been admirable for this period for a cheap far east kit. I replaced just the ballast for a brand new slim one, again from a £20.00 kit, like for like at 55w and the bulbs have not been changed and are both from the same kit bought 3 years ago. You will notice and in real life it was clearly visible straight away that the 'new' one on the right looking at the pic was as advertised a lovely crisp white 6000k colour but the old one was somewhere about a 3000k colour with that tinge of yellow about it, concluding therefore that it is the ballasts that over this 3 year period with me as actually become weary and do need changing periodically for that optimum colour.

These were mine weren't they Graham, expect so and he expertly changed the colour from white to blue :cool3:. And Rich you're basically making up something like this ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Daytime-Runing-Lights-Lamp-DRL-Module-Relais-12V-LED-R87-Car-Auto-/320980050640?pt=UK_Other_Clothing_Protection&var=&hash=item4abbe6e2d0

I got 8mm for mine to replace bits that were missing, tatty, faded, etc. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8mm-Matt-Black-Vinyl-Stripe-2-for-1-offer-car-or-boat-/180808010897?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a18ff4c91

Having just been fiddling in this area I took a pic of my 1994 Jap and here is the wire, this becomes live when headlights/dipped are on and you indicate that side, of course it needs to be connected to a bulb - which is what I have been doing but more on that tomorrow !! As you can see it comes down sheathed with the two indicator wires, it as never been connected up in my ownership so I don't really know what it looked like in this area when it left the factory.

Have you got your 'Bah Humbug' sweater on :tt2:. What's the point of those side decals :biggrin:.

They are $73 but the shipping on just the one item is $99, that makes them £106.00, then no doubt I would of had some duty on top of this, my guess is somewhere around £125.00. So I had to combine shipping with others and then we all had to pay our share of duty, I paid £77.00 all in. I got them as a Xmas gift, so only cost me in fact £7.00 :tt2:.

Been after some of these for a while now and got some when I tagged along to Yewcheck's Z1 Xmas order from the USA a few weeks ago. You can get two versions, these are the most powerful the UHP and are specific to my SWB, they work an absolute treat. Only take 10 mins tops to fit and can easily be done on your own, one strut holds it up no problem. I have still got the weight in the tailgate, spoiler and wiper all fitted and it flies up, bit of an effort to close but feels very sturdy :thumbup:. [video=youtube_share;Se-kFo83OWg]

Just a pic I found on the USA site, looks like someone as beat me to it with this style of halo light and I thought I was special :cursing:. Mine though do look brighter with more smd's, looks nice though on the car :biggrin:.

Watched all his programs as a youngster, especially Thunderbirds. Thunderbirds 2 was my fav and of course I had the die cast of it :cool3:.

Happy birthday bud :happybday:.

You've got Altia light up sills - lucky boy !!!!!!!!! Always feel a LWB needs a rear spoiler though but yes very nice, interior looks to of been well done but glove box as not been done :thumbup1:.