WillyEd

Fuel leaked onto the manifold I reckon. Poor buggers!

o yeah - oops :) Emphasised the point though :D

Just found the rest of the pics: http://www.z32.com/euro/euro3.jpg http://www.z32.com/euro/euro3a.jpg http://www.z32.com/euro/euro3b.jpg http://www.z32.com/euro/euro3c.jpg Must have taken ages to do all the body mods I reckon!

This rather muddled car was in Max Power several years ago I think. If its the same one - then it has Supra rear lights too - *yuk*!

I got married in August and it puts a smile on my face everytime I see 'Mrs Williams' written on the mornings post - sounds a little corny I know but I'm happy - you will be too! All the best.

Hi Scoops, There's an advert in September 2005's kitcar mag for this company: http://www.ultimatecarsecurity.co.uk/ They have a system, where you put a pay-as-you-go sim in the tracker, and it'll: - SMS you if the car is tampered with - SMS you every 60 seconds with its GPS location if it tampered with and moving - Allow you to text your car from your own phone and get its GPS location back etc - it records you fastest 0-60 times too! Their web-site is pants though, and clicking on the 'UCS Standard' and 'UCS Elite' don't work!! Ho hum - at least they have a 'request a brouchure' button which does work!

Hi Paul, I thought that when the TT manual is in fourth, one revolution of the crank equalled on revolution on the rear wheels. If this is so, then changing the rear diff ratio will mean loosing a gear with a 1:1 ratio. Regards Simon.

If you swap a TT diff over to an N/A ratio (either through changing the diff itself, or through new ring and pinion), won't you loose a 1-to-1 gear (normally 4th)? So if you ever get down the dyno you'll end up with unfavorable figures? Simon.

Had to change mine for the MOT last week. Car feels _so_ much better now!! (I had 2 to 3mm of play on each side!) Took a couple of hours for me to do once I'd made a puller to remove the ball-joint coupling.

agreed - credit to Eubank for doing something about it. The BBC story doesn't say whether the lorry was parked on double-yellows or anything but he probably was! I'm sure all delivery drivers think that they don't apply to them!

A year ago already - :eek: blimey! Too right!

6.2 inches huh - I suppose that is about the size of the average 'member' :D:D

Just answered my own first question: The shocks have come in their most damping position i.e fully unwound. And yes there is an end stop when turning the shafts. Simon.

Couple of questions for those with either a set of Koni shocks and/or Blitz lowering springs: 1. On the rear shocks - which are adjusted my depressing the rod into the cylinder and turning. It shows in the instructions that the rod can be turned up to two complete revolutions for maximum stiffness. Is there a kind of end stop inside which stops you from turning too far? Likewise, can it be unscrewed too far? Just wanted to determine what setting they're currectly at already. 2. I figured out quite quickly which of the Blitz spring were for the front and which were for the back - but there are two things I'm not entirely happy about: i. The rear spring is of a slightly different design to the original, where the top-last turn of the spring tapers to a much thinner bar thickness (but still fits the upper no problem) ii. the bottom rear spring diameter (across the whole coil) is slightly larger than the original - and sits right on the edge of the spring seat (the new Koni seat is the same size as the original btw) I bought these from Jonny @ GPS about two years ago, and have only just got around to fitting them, so I really hope they're the right springs!:-| Having done a quick search on the forum before starting this thread, I notice a few of have this setup so did anyone else query the rear spring? Cheers all!

Hi Mark, From what I remember: On a UK manual TT Z there is one oil pump and cooler located above the O/S rear driveshaft which cools both diff and gearbox oil. It only comes on under certain conditions - (see manual), but if you want to activate it - there are two thermostats on the rear of the diff, if you ground the wire for the smaller of the two thermostats you should hear the pump come on. Hope this helps Simon.

Just re-igniting this thread as I too have an issue with rust in the place Justin has identified. Quick story to explain where mine has come from: I had no problems with rust anywhere on the car for the first three years of ownership (1991 UK model). Last June, I had a body kit fitted, which, as most body kits do, includes a replacement rear bumper. Now, for those who are aware of how a standard bumper is attached, there are about 10 bolts which hold the long-end of the bumper into the body. These bolts go though holes in the chassis under the lights, and have rubber washers on them to seal the joint. My rust has appeared as a result of my after-market bumper being attached as follows: - 5 self tappers through from the inside into the fibre-glass. - No attempt to cover or fill the remaining unused holes - No re-use of the rubber washers either. ....consequently, everytime it rains, even lightly, water comes in the boot and fills up the boot tray on either side, it then overfills into the rear arches, whereupon the water has nowhere to drain, and rots through!! So having spent a considerable amount of money on the kit fitmenting and a respray, you can imagine how pi55ed off I was to discover that the bodyshops incompetance has caused another few hundred pounds worth of damage! Anyway, my advise is to those you are having new rear bumpers fitted, makes sure all the fixing holes are either covered, filled, or sealed in some form to stop the water getting in, or else you'll be discovering how good (or bad in my case) the customer service is of the company you've used!! Simon.

Plenty more fish in the sea mate! And some good lookin fish there are too! Good luck.

I'm afriad we're all the same, subscribed or not, why disrespect somebody just because they haven't subscribed?? Nobody should have to subscribe just to offer the remains of their pride and joy. If Dave does buy another Z, I'm sure he will subscribe, but in the meantime I'd suggest a little more courtesy wouldn't go amiss.

Hi Jeff, Cheers for the input. I've actually got a pair of new HICAS arms which I shall be fitting at the same time. (If fact, I've had them since the last MOT but never got around to fitting them - being a dad now if rather a full time job in itself!)

The rear shocks on the Z have been on the verge of MOT failure for the last year - the rear end feels like its skipping out every time i go over a bump, one wheel is an inch lower than the other etc etc.... So just got a set of Koni Sport shocks, which should be here in a day or two hopefully. Anyway, while the car is in the air with its suspenders down, should I be thinking about a new all-round bushing kit? I see Energy suspension do a kit: http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/nis1.html - anyone had experience of this? Any help and/or experience with overhauling the suspension would be great. Cheers Simon. (p.s. Got a set of Blitz springs to go on the car too - if that helps)

Nice IC's :cool: Shame they don't look like that now - Too many flattened fins from stones, fly etc. Although they are HKS IC's they don't actually say HKS on them. Si.

*stunned* Deepest sympathies Simon.

It would be rude not too :) (Will be down the gym @ 21:00 Shame! Few nice piccies in Zoo magazine though and only 60p :hyper: )

Hi jaffa, It was $1300 - which I think worked out about £1100 with the import duty, postage cost etc Very professional outfit as far I'm I'm concerned: The prop was made to order, and was with me within a month. Just let them know what model Z you have and they have all the necessary measurements. Simon.

Nice work! Alternatively, I think you could use the PS pump form an NA Z, which only has the pipe work for the steering, not the HICAS. Simon.