vodkashots

i used heavy duty carpet glue in a spray can, failing that corn flakes, milk and sugar. (ever rushed out the door in the morning, then had to try cleaning the damn bowl when you get home with dried on cornflakes, you need a pneumatic drill for that stuff)

I had the same when changing my engine from a Manual engine to a Auto, had to get the auto pilot out. in the end JamieTT came down, used a big heavy chisel and a mallet, one hit and the damn thing popped out. So the trick is, heavy chisel and a heavy hammer, and give it a good wallop

yeah he did, everyone was leaving and we still had Zeds arriving

Was great Kim, no problem with helping out, thoroughly enjoyed it. thanks for doing the food, and everything else. Was great to of finally met you :D

Was a pleasure to see you again paul, had a right laugh mate, and so glad the weather held out for saturday and sunday.

BR green, LWB at the embankment in wellingborough today. so was it you?

IIRC, the wiring loom that feeds the start motor, then down to the gear box for all the switches / sensors and the like. plugs into these connections.

ok ill try that, going to need new elbows anyway or drill and re thread the ones on it, as the bolts are that old the dirt and bolt is now part of the thread and no amount of wire brushing was shifting it. those cats had definitely been on the car for 20 years no joke lol

drivers, thats the one with the smoking problem

hows the new zorst sound matey?

Well, got almost there, then went to remove one of the bolts holding the turbo to manifold, and it snapped the thread :( looks like its going to be a engine out job to replace the manifold now. as i really don't need manifold bolts snapping either.

last week, on the way to see Art, i pulled up behind a new fiat 500 that had a side exit exhaust, very strange rear end look i have to say.

ok found out what they where on about when the MOT said Offside / nearside seatbelt anchorage point (inner sill) excessively corroded. Its the crushed sill area near the front wheel arch. was under the car today to wd40 the bolts, and if you look from exhaust out, you can see it, not very big, but obvious enough to fail the MOT.

im going to be getting loads of pictures and do a step by step guide if i can lol. But its definatly my turbo oil seal, and id say its completely shot now. There is oil dripping from the join between turbo and elbow.

That was very conservative of you there Si. But i have to agree, what on earth made you come up with that idea for the engine bay? i know its different, and everyone is entitled to how they like there cars, and I'm usually the one to stick up for being your self with your motor and everything. but god damn man? lol

cars too expensive to joyride in, bet he got about 18miles and that £30 ran out lol Glad you got it back though, with minimal damage.

going to be changing the turbos this week with the engine in? any hints and tips? on the best way of going about it. read the service manual, and it does indeed say about doing it with the engine in, but would rather hear from people who have done this before. also whats this mention of modified spanners? anyone got any pictures of spanners they have modified to do the job? or would these swivel head ratchet spanners i got do with out modification?

D'oh! Had the panel out from under the steering column to retrim it. Must of knocked the box for my immobi transever box thingy, so it was out of range lol from where my key fob usually needs to dangle to get it started. Check the simple things eh? lol

Welcome matey, and as already said, get some photos up :D

The ground has been photo shopped, probably to make it look a lot smoother / cleaner.

you will need to bleed the brakes properly, this is how i did it. Get some clear plastic tubing about 5 feet long, this helps allot, (fish tank bubble tubing works great for this) jack up the front end and remove the wheels, next open the boot, remove the plastic covering over the rear wheel arch (not the bit with the speakers in, but the bit lower down) this covers the ABS unit. now pray you have the one with the 2 nipples on it. if it does, pop a tube onto the one that says front. and open it with a 8 or 10mm spanner (cant remember what one now) and get someone to pump the brakes until no bubbles are visible, you will need someone with you to help poor in brake fluid into the res, if it gets to low you will just introduce bubbles into the system again. Once you get no visible bubbles coming out, tighten the nipple and remove the tubing, now place the tubing on the one that says rear, and repeat the process. only remove the tubing once the nipple is closed, as this stops it sucking air back in. Now undo the front caliper nipples and do the same on both sides. Now put the wheels back on the front. lower it down, raise the back end, and remove both wheels, now bleed both rear calipers the same way you did the fronts. once you are certain no air is in the system, do the nipples back up, wheels back on, and just for good measure, do the ABS unit again. this should purge all air out of your braking system, even small bubbles have a dramatic effect on the feeling of your brakes. Please note, make sure you have something to feed the fluid back into, don't use the same stuff again as it will bubble when going into the holding container. and make sure someone is filling as you are pumping the brakes. you wont have to pump to much to get the air out. Once all done, you should have rock solid brakes after a few presses with the brake pedal with everything done back up properly, that will relieve the pressure when left for a few seconds. This is how i did mine when i had snapped a brake line; changing brake pads. These cars are a nightmare to get right, took me 4 bottles of brake fluid before i figured out how to bloody do it, even when bleeding everything above. PS, the brake pumping is also good for inducing labor lol (tried and tested method)

Thought my car battery was dead, brought it up to the yard to charge it, but the charger is saying fully charged, put a volt meter on it, and its showing charged also, apart from my immobiliser, what else would cause no power to anything, no lights on dash, no nothing, not even the map reading lights that the immobi doesnt stop working? checked to make sure the battery connectors are properly on. typical the day i try and move the car after dragging my self down to it, i have no power.

how does the NSX hold its value, but the 300zx doesnt? and don't say about engine placement lol

id go one further and get reclining la-z boy chairs with the built in can coolers lol http://www.ciao.co.uk/La_Z_Boy_Cool_Chair_Massage_Recliner__7007227

lol i was looking at your zed the other day on the bay, thinking to get it for the turbos and then break it.