vodkashots

got my gearbox off, replaced the clutch and clutch housing, then swore at the bloody thing because of snapped studs on the elbows.

Personally for a part that doesn't actually wear that fast compared to other parts, i think that's a reasonable price for both sides.

If push comes to shove mate, my breaker will have some. hand break works fine.

what an ass mate, hope its not too badly damaged. seems to be a thing with zeds getting hit up the ass.

Proper man moment mate :lol:

well good thing is, the one hardest to get too, the stud undid with the nut on it, ill grab one of them disks and go to work on it lol

I used a 800w corded drill, i started off slow and steady with the small drill bit, that ate through it and left me a nice guide hole, i then upped it to the next size, i started on that, on slow, but wasnt doing anything, so upped the speed to half, then full, by that point the bit had gone blunt and was glowing red hot, so got fecked off and lit me fag with it and took a break lol

ive got a crash helmet with visor lol (works :lol:)

And at least i know i most certainly have GT525 turbos.

replied

I had wondered why my last lot of elbows had that V cut into them, thought they might be after market ones lol, thanks jeff. shall give it a try in getting these elbows off (lets hope none of them snap as well)

Any ideas of the best way to go about tackling these, ive tried drilling through one and using larger size drill bits to increase the hole, but the only one that managed to get through was a tiny one, the others are just going blunt (HSS cobalt Dewalt drill bits :( ). drivers side needs 1 drilling out, one stud actually undone, and one nut came off as normal, passenger side how ever, 2 snapped 1 undone as normal. I can not for the life of me get this damn drill bit to eat the stud that's in there, so at the moment, my clutch change is on hold. i want to get these elbows sorted while the gearbox is off the car as i have more room to play with. I have a stud extraction tool BUT, last time i used one the damn things snapped in side the stud so that left me back at square one where by i had to then drill through that and the stud (when i did my blue car) so im a bit apprehensive about trying that again.

mine needs emptying as well as its getting knocked down come June. not looking forward to emptying it either lol Would love a man cave like that though Anthony.

Same, kinda defeated the idea of having a garage as the car had to be left unlocked in it, now its just used as a spare parts storage center lol

i had this same issue but fitting it to a TT, managed to get it in the end but needed the pipe bending ever so slightly. takes a far bit of effort to do that, i didn't have the option of speaking to japspeed as the exhaust came of another car so no warranty or anything with it.

well, i know that when my VTC solenoid connecter cooked on the turbo when it found its way down there, my engine ran like crap.

Ok, thought as much ill make sure the potential buyer is aware. do we know what way the speedo is effected? reading slower or faster? id imaging faster than what you are doing. Would rather they know all the info rather than finding out later.

ok how would you go about correcting the speedo reading? i thought with the speed sensor being in the gearbox, this wouldnt be an issue?

thought it was something to do with the bell housing, i was pretty sure it was N/A manual to TT engine that was the issue.

Now im pretty sure about this but wanted to make certain. I have someone interested in my manual conversion kit, they have a N/A my gearbox is a TT with all TT parts. Am i right in thinking that the only issue comes from fitting a N/A gearbox to a TT and not TT gearbox to N/A.

Id say over the 600 mark with them turbos and a decent map, though haven't seen anything on the injector side mentioned yet, or what intake set up you are going to be using. I take it you have a big brake set up to stop this thing once it gets going? lol

Well if it happens and you cant be arsed, ill have that front bumper off you lol Also going to get a good photo of my zed with a mushroom cloud in the background. would make a epic picture.

There are two, one on the clutch slave cylinder thats bolted to the gearbox, and that one.

there are two thermostats, one is mechanical and inside the lower metal water pipe on the front of the engine, the other is electrical and behind the glove box, on the A/C box. Znut is most likely on about the one in the engine that you need to drain the radiator for. The Mechanical one, basically opens at 76 degree's C and lets the water flow through the radiator to cool the engine down, once the engine has come up to temp. The Electrical one, senses the air flow temperature for inside the cabin. two completely different systems.

Just to clarify the break lines are not part of the rear sub frame assembly, just support the calipers so as not to damage the break lines.