engine out.
Remove 30amp fuel pump fuse located in the small fuse box, drivers side of engine bay and crank engine to relieve pressure in the fuel pipes
Disconnect battery and remove
Either remove bonnet
Jack car and place on Axel stands, Or use wheel ramps
Drain water
Drain gearbox
Drain Engine oil if there is some left
Remove engine fan
Remove rad cowl if you have it.
Undo rad brackets
Undo Top rad pipe and lower rad pipe from the front of the engine hard pipes, undo the two small rubber pipes leading to two hard pipes that go towards the gear box at the bottom of the radiator, and remove the radiator
Undo and remove Inlet pipes from the throttle bodies
Undo and remove outlet pipes from turbos to intercoolers
Undo fuel lines to fuel bar, or in the case of having braided fuel lines, remove braided fuel line from fuel pressure regulator and (you will still leak fuel so be careful when doing this)
Undo balance bar and remove
If you have one, remove throttle cover
Unclip throttle cable and where applicable cruise control and swing out of the way
Unclip all 6 injectors
Unplug all 6 coil packs
Remove fuel rail (if its there)
Unplug at the back of the engine idle control valve / Dett sensor and anything else thats connecting the wiring harness to the engine
Unplug O2 sensor connectors
Unbolt wiring harness at both sides of engine
Unplug PTU / water temp sender and Water temp switch from hard pipe / CAS and move wiring harness out of the way (it should flex over to where the battery was)
Release the tension on the powersteering pump aux belt and remove
Rotate the engine using a 27mm socket on a breaker bar until you can get to the power steering pump bolt (about the 12oclock position through the hole in the powersteering pump pully) undo and remove the bolt and leaver the power steering pump free of the engine mount point (saves you having to buggering about draining the system)
I dont have A/C on mine, but its the same for the A/C side, release tension on the Aux belt and remove the mount bolts that hold the A/C compressor to the engine
Follow all vacuum hoses and remove as necessary from engine (labeled as required as they can be a nightmare to remember where they go)
Now there are two ways of doing this. you can either opt for dropping the front sub frame and taking the gearbox and engine out in one go. or you can take out the gearbox first (which is what i do as space is limited)
Gearbox removal
From under the car
Remove exhaust
Remove heat shield protecting propshaft
Undo 4 x Bolts on center prop bearing, mark with either spray, or tip ex for easy lining up when you come to rejoin them
Remove 2 x bolts and spacers from prop bearing housing. use a large flat head screw driver to get the two halves apart and pull the prop from the rear of the gear box.
unbolt Positive from battery off the back of the start motor, unbolt start motor and remove
there are 2 oil metal feed lines that go towards the front of the car from the gearbox and meet 2 rubber hoses just before the rad that should already have been done when the rad was removed, now you can remove the hard lines from the gearbox so its easier to get the gearbox out with having to worry about them, same with the gearbox dipstick. though the dipstick will seem as though its stuck as it has a gearbox mount plate on it that is bolted to the gearbox, the Positive cable that runs from the battery down to the starter motor is also cable tied to the auto dipstick
Undo the bolts holding the lower half of the gearbox to the engine. (don't forget the ones near the oil filter as they face the opposite way, there is also one on the other side of the engine that also faces the wrong way)
Now, using a jack get the jack under the rear of the gearbox, and undo the gear selector arm, and start undoing the 6 bolts holding the gearbox to the middle of the car
At this point its a good idea to unplug the gearbox, the plugs go up into the engine bay and connect to the 4 plugs at the rear of the drivers side headlight on the shell of the car. feed these back down to the gear box and cable tie out of the way
Once you have removed the 6 bolts holding the rear of the gearbox to the car, lower the jack, this will force the engine to lean back on its self. exposing the top 4 bolts that you wouldn't of been able to get to very easily.
Now using 3 x 3" extension, 1 10" extension a swivel head thingy, and a 14mm socket. loads of patients and a cup of coffee here and there, remove the final 4 bolts from the gear box.
You should now be able to split the gearbox from the engine (it wont fall straight away as the torque converter will be in the way. but ease it out gently and it will come eventually
Once the gear box is out, undo the engine mount nuts x2, strap your engine up to the hoist and start lifting slowly, once you get a bit of room at the rear of the engine, remove the 2 water pipes that feed the heater matrix in the cabin, now continue to lift slowly and pay attention to anything that is still connected to the engine and remove as necessary.
Things to watch out for
The wiring harness for the alternator, its a bit fiddly to get to, but can be undo as your lifting the engine, but pay attention and lift slowly to avoid snapping wires
Make sure you can hook your hoist as close to the engine as possible, or your not going to clear the slam panel.
I might of missed something in this lot as ive typed it from memory. lol
seem to be having trouble getting hold of a pallet to transport a gearbox conversion. anyone know where they do pallet hire for personal use and not business use?