vodkashots

funny thing though, is the UK gets hit by more tornadoes than our US counter parts, they usually ain't very big unlike the US ones. so they dont tend to get reported as much on the national news. (read that in national geographic so if its wrong, blame them lol)

its in the boot area near the ABS unit. though my cars have always had the amp, you can still use your own, just run new wires from the speakers to your 4 channel amp

yeah, i found it higher quality than the other MOMO that was on there. plus i think it looks nice and more suited to the zed interior

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170659733937&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT quite deep at the back, but does look nice when installed.

If the screw drops, you will need to put the window switch back in, raise the window, then to gain access to where the screw landed (if it misses the door lock controls) peal back the plastic covering the lower outer edge of the door, and reach in, if it hasn't caught on the door lock mech, it will be at the bottom of the door rolling around. But a magnetic screw driver will help as well.

its a good place to put them, as there is lots of space behind for the rear of the switches, only thing is i need to get another gear selector surround to get rid of that oblong hole in between them, i think it was part of an old alarm immobilizer as it had a slot point in there. Remus, the chrome dash trim was available on ebay last time i checked. it looks good in photos, but to be honest looks a bit tatty when up close. Strange thing is, my last zed had a kind of red wood trim kit, i didn't like that too start with but it grew on me.

come on, you should know this one, its a UK spec, doesnt have one lol

happy birthday buddy.

Well got my japspec clocks back off jim, so decided to refit my EL dials and rings onto my UK spec clocks. what a pain in the arse, and im not sure if ive fooked my needles up till the engine is running. Also installed my new momentary switch into the cabin for the extended power switch leads i soldered on to my PC motherboard, going to get another one for the amp on switch that can be seen above it. its a chromed push switch that illuminates with a blue LED, there are some the same on ebay for a shocking £10, but got mine for just £4 posted. wanted a green one for the amps, but cant justify paying £10 for it, so might just get another. Do how ever need to get a replacement trim panel and mount them again properly with out the extra cut out thats already in place. I can now turn everything on in the boot from the cabin, bit of a pain in the butt having 3 seperate switches, but managed to minimize the ones in the cabin by hiding the power inverter on switch inside the arm rest.

Dont Revive Me Bro http://www.dontrevivemebro.com/ Kinda of fitting really :lol:

Hi ya bud, think you would get a better welcome if you put a post up here http://300zx.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=142 :)

personal digital assistant :mellow:

http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/tech/trim/doortrim.htm small pictures but same procedure. Ill get me camera out and do a full type up tomorrow with bigger pictures for our FAQ area and HOW TOO's

depends if its jap spec or UK spec, japspec has extra screws on the door near the door catch area where the seat belt goes through the door, but also to gain access to the bolts holding the door card on at the window pillar (outer edge of the door), the top pillar trim clips into the same bracket. Im surprised you haven't had to remove the door pillar trim to access the bolts unless your using a 10mm spanner to get too them, with the window down you gain access to the little plastic access, to unscrew the top part of the door pillar trim.

Make sure you have the window half way down and take the 2 x screws off from the side of the door card closest the hinge, then take the screws out of the door closest the lock mech. Drivers door, in the door handle you use to close the door is another 2 screws hidden under some felt, take them out and take the window switch out, and unplug it, then take the other door screw out under the windowswitch that holds the door car to the door, Now, as you have the window half way down, undo the plasic cover on the out side of the door on the window guide, and unscrew the little screw in there holding the top cover to the inside of the door pillar. take the door handle surround off the inside of the door being careful not to break the clips, by using a large flat head screw driver and prising it out. depending if you have jap spec or UK spec, depends if you need to undo the seat belt at this point, now you have the bolts exposed holding the door card on at the window pillar on the door. undo the bolts, get your fingers under the leading edge of the bottom of the door card and pull outwards towards you, now lift the door card up and off the door where it grips over the edge of the door near the window. You now have access to the speaker. Passenger side, take the plugs out from the door handle and remove 2 x screws, everything else is same as above. Door speaker sizes are 6.5" round (iirc)

i put in gloss black vinyl, and got no hits for gloss? wtf?

is ebay selective searching like google or something? you know, where two people can search for the same thing yet get two completely different search results?

i just want gloss black roof bars, but ebay only do matt or fecking carbon fiber. arrrrggghhh.

Your more than welcome me ol mucker

nvm, just seen it, just after he hit the car, he hit the host. well, not sure as host id be right down the bottom there.

hmm, is that staged or something? just seems odd that the car he clipped was already wrecked.

Did the needles get knocked also sounds like you didnt change the MPH/KPH converter over?

basically what i said, if you pull the fuse to the fuel pump (small fuse box in the engine bay) it will crank but not over fuel or flood the engine as the pump isnt pumping fuel.

i edited my post after you quoted, read it again mate lol *****cks, im too slow as well :lol:

take the fuel pump fuse out, and crank the engine, usually done with a oil feed line to turbos off, (not really pratical with our cars) until oil comes out, then connect to turbo and crank a bit more. But as its our cars, crank the engine, count to 10 while doing it. leave to rest, then do it again. should be primed enough by that point. plug the fuse back in, and start the car.