vodkashots

Covered that with jeff, its definitely over heating matey, i have 2 separate temp sensors and conzults which is why i asked where conzults was taking its temp reading from. no only that, it tries to push cool coolant from the rad out into the overflow, which suggests to me its a airlock still, as the air is expanding and pushing the water out via the overflow with out the coolant being hot enough too. Just seems strange though, would of though id of managed to shift an airlock by now with the amount of times the engines been stripped.

ooh, and the cooling fan on or off makes no difference, so might be back at a clogged radiator lol

ive covered all this in my other threads but heres the run down. Got the car in may with engine and gearbox issues. Engine came out in august and parts swapped over from old engine to new (plenum, polished water pipes, polished cas, new PCV valves and rubber) while the engine was out, water bypass was done, oil filter changed, oil pressure sender was changed for after market one. Cam covers came off to check cam belt but its new so was no reason to change it. engine went in the car and the car ran fine for 2 months with no issues apart from what seemed to be safemode, had a bit of a airpocket in one of the water bypass pipes but that was cleared once the pipe split and got replaced for a better grade one, passenger side turbo pipe also failed not long after so that also got replaced for better grade coolant hose (original bypass hose was what steams gave me, ive advised him to change his as well) Car still ran fine, took car over a friends house which is 22 miles away from me, temp was fine all the way over until i parked on his drive with my nose facing down and the temp shot up to 127. Car was turned off instantly, at the time the car overheated, car was running stock ECU as id removed my chipped one and the timing had been set accordingly, only mods were FMIC, fully decatted exhaust, and performance airfilter, boost was stock. I then got the car trailered home, next day i filled the system up got it to temp and checked the rad hoses, top one hot bottom one freezing. whiped out the thermostat and tested it, it opened all of 1mm even in boiling water. Dug old but working thermostat out of garage tested it before i put it in, gave engine a flush through, put the system back together, it carried on overheating only when driven at above 50mph. I then changed water pump and fan clutch, and it carried on doing the same thing, so i took out the stock ECU, replaced with Socketted and chipped ECU, redid timing as it was 30 degrees out, car then sounded a lot smoother, it still over heated as before yet took longer to get there. Next up was the rad change, changed the radiator for a none clogged one, took the car out for a good 2 hour drive including boosting and driving of 70mph, got home and let the car idle, hottest temp that was read during that time was 87 degrees C, thinking the problem had been delt with, car then was shut off for the night. Next day i started her up, noticed i didnt have any heating, turned on the carputer and started conzults, engine temp was creeping again above 90 so turned the ignition off, got a brand spanking new thermostat thinking that it had failed, replaced the thermostat and also flushed the engine again, checked old thermostat but it was fine even opening at the correct temperature and opening to the full 10mm, i also replaced the rad cap twice just incase, still she over heats on idle and thats how shes been since. overheating gradually on idle and hasnt moved from her parking spot. She does not loose coolant as i can not get any more into the system, ive tried various things with no success, in a way i was hoping it would fail the block test as at least then i knew where i stood, but as its passed, im back to square one. Ive changed almost everything to do with the cooling system, even going as far as to remove my silicone lower radiator pipe to put it back to stock and its still doing. She has new thermostat, new water pump, replaced ecu, replaced rad cap, replaced rad, replaced water bypass pipes, replaced lower rad pipe (cant replace top ones as they are modified to have my after market temp gauge on, but they are in very good condition (the rubber ones not the hardpipes) I have no leaks anywhere, my heater matrix isn't leaking, as i said im not loosing coolant. i have no mayo in the engine oil, and no mayo in the radiator. As far as im concerned ive changed just about everything i can apart from the engine and the heater matrix, the rubber pipes i haven't changed have been inspected for defects and none are showing. My mrs dad is coming over tomorrow with air compressor and we are going to pressurise the system to 15psi and see if there is a leak.

ive changed the rad cap as well, just thought id let you all know before someone suggests it, and the fan clutch

15 degrees btdc, did it with a timing light on the crank pulley and also used conzults to double check cas is sitting about half way.

topic was about posting pictures of cars and ladys, considering it got to 4 pages long and only one picture was added with in 2 pages. it got cleaned up, even the OP asked for it back on topic lol

thread cleaned up, can we stay on topic now please :)

not all manuals have a oil cooler for the gearbox.

You missed this thread bud lol http://300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=156795

it reached 127 degrees the very first time it over heated, that was due to a thermostat failing to open fully, since then its had 2 thermostats, brand new water pump, rad change blah blah, really getting fecking annoyed with it, but at least i know its not a new engine .

they are probably fullyaware, but hoping she doesnt act on it.

i would guess looking at his sill line, that hes already caused some damage by dropping it that low. also hard to comment as not sure where you want the measurement to be taken from, the underside of the car bows upward in the middle so its going to be different distances lol (bit impractical and how on earth does he turn the wheels?)

its been an hour now and its still blue.... just had a lengthy talk with JeffTT as well and we are both stumped. so any suggestions more than welcome so far changed the thermostat, radiator, water pump, replaced both pipes on the plenum bypass. flushed it out no end of times Before rad change i could drive it around under 50, go over 50 it would gradually over heat. after rad change, it worked flawlessly for 2 hours, even on boost. parked it up for the night, went to it the next day, and it started overheating on idle. (again gradually not fast)

well its been 30mins since i did the block test kit and guess what? it stayed blue this is the kit i got http://www.uktools.com/block-tester-p-12508.html well its still blue... so what on earth is causing my overheating issue. The car has only ever reached 127degrees once. all my testing I've never let the car get higher than 105 as I've shut the engine down once it approaches 100c So im now stumped But im glad its not a blown head gasket.

block test kit just arrived, will be heading down to the car in a bit to test it. not looking forward to this but at least ill finally know for sure. :(

Are you basing that on manual prop N/A to manual gearbox TT? because N/A auto prop to auto TT gearbox does not go. trust me i found out after id taken the auto N/A gearbox off the car, also the N/A auto torque converter doesnt go on a TT Auto box, the spline sizes are completely different.

then i believe your going to run into problems, the rear prop will connect to the diff, but the front will not connect to the gearbox, you said you have a one peice. Your going to need a TT prop. Check first though, as yours is a manual box. might be different.

its fine

let me get this right you have a TT gearbox and want to do this N/A diff -> N/A Propshaft -> TTgearbox -> TTclutch -> N/A engine? IF so, then i suggest you check the prop shaft to gearbox spline on the rear, these are different sizes, i had attempted to put a TT gearbox on a N/A japspec and the propshaft was a different size so wouldn't slot into the rear of the gearbox, BUT biggest difference was it was a auto box. so you may be lucky, but best to check

Well for me its gotta be, the mighty Mclaren F1 (yes i know what a surprise lol) And the absolutely stunning Holly valance

it does say "in the UK" not "in the world" lol :):detective::whistling:

i remember seeing this on a show, but not sure what tv show it was. its just a head with motorised neck and voice software at the moment. Not sure id pass it off as real, when the mouth does more movement than just up and down, its just a latex skin over a outer shell. nothing we haven't seen done in a movie. i think the trick comes in with its AI though.

hell, im not complaining, means i can go on the PC for hours on end with out getting moaned at, so it has its perks lol

mate my Mrs watches hollyoaks, emmerdale, corrie, eastenders and Waterloo road, so i have to find new ways to entertain my self, BUT also means i have no choice but to know whats going on in the bloody things as i hear her talking to the TV about it.

yeah, quite a few with wii remote damage on ebay as well lol