NA6CETOM

I wouldn't if I were you. Suspension top nuts are called 'resistance nuts' as they are alot tighter than any old other nut. Note how they need alot more torque to just wind them down the thread, let alone tighten them correctly. Use Nyloc nuts at very least if you go down this route. I personally wouldn't rely on 2 full turns either, but I am an engineer, so quite fussy :) You 'might' be able to use the OEM top mounts on the KYBs, but I'm not familiar with the Z suspension setup...yet. Matt

Ahhhh...cheers. Would love to have gone myself but had to work this weekend :(

Are you suspension top mounts OEM? If not, they may not have long enough threads for a strut brace. Was the car on the ground when you removed the top mount nuts?

Code 43 is throttle position sensor (TPS). Code 34 is knock/detonation sensor.

She's still running on safety boost, even though the ECU shows code 55. Having read alot about det sensors on the forum, I'm convinced the det sensor/wiring is the culprit so I'll get it looked at this week. N/S manifold is definitely blowing too...that must be a bitch to replace...does the engine need to come out for this?

Thanks 'old zed'. Matt hasn't got round to checking the harness yet, should be some time next week. If the sensor itself has gone though, he'll be relocating it for me as per the forum sticky :)

Cars generally don't have on/off days...drivers do though :D

Photos as promised :)

Hi all, Matt here, I've been working on Tom's Z32 today, and made the following progress: Renewed Diff, Gearbox and Engine Oil Replaced spark plugs (one coil pack snapped in half!) Undersealed Coolant flushed Located an oil leak (N/S cam cover gasket by the looks of it) Checked tyres (fine) Inspected brakes (fine, but need new disks within 6 months) Replaced air filters (will fit induction in due course) Renewed brake fluid (it looked like Brandy!) Checked the PAS fluid All of that in four hours, and having never worked on a Z before, I don't think that's too bad! The downside is the car ran on safety boost this morning, probably due to code 34 (det sensor), which we obtained last night. I've also ordered a new coolant temp sensor, so will hopefully get rid of the code 13 as cleaning the connectors didn't work 100%

If the IAA is oily/gunky, your throttle bodies will be dirty too, so give them a clean with brake cleaner or similar. To remove those stupid clips, perhaps a set of 'bendy pliers' will do the trick? I've used these many, many times when working on cars. Where is the IAA btw? I need to do this too!

Check your PCV first and go from there.

Thanks for all the friendly welcome messages :) Me and my mate Matt made some progress this evening, finding codes 13 and 34 stored in the ECU. Both the det sensor and coolant sensor connectors are cracked in some way, and the coolant sensor has a build of verdigris on the pins, so we'll clean those off before delving any deeper. After reconnecting both of those, the engine idled perfectly! I don't expect it to last, but it's a start! Out of interest, is the det sensor resistor mod, a permanent fix? Or should I replace it when it's accessible, or ASAP? Also, out of the two codes, which would you expect to cause the idle problem? As for the N/S headlight that only came on when you hit the headlight assembly, Matt found the relay, removed it, reconnected and all is fine...how bizarre!

Gotcha...cheers for that :)

Sounds like the pilot bearing to me...back of the engine job :( As a rule, whenever the clutch is replaced, both of the these and the rear crank oil seal should be replaced as everything is easily accessed with the gearbox off. Matt

Get a sniffer test done to ensure it's the HG. You may as well get the head skimmed if the gasket needs replacing, along with a decoke and getting the valves re-ground. You'll need to drive easy for the first few hundred miles, but she'll only get better and better after this :) Lots of mechanics will say it needs doing for a good reason...they don't want to take the head and associated ancillaries off again! Uno - Your avatar is horrifying!

I'll get Matt to take a look at those too...cheers. No pictures yet...but I'll post them up over the next few days. Both of us are enthusiasts, both coming from MX5s, he's now got a slightly modified S2000 that makes mincemeat of me in the corners, and 'just' manages to squeeze ahead on the straights. I think I need to get to grips with the car a bit more! I'm sooo much more comfortable though :D

Hi all, I've not posted on here since joining the forum, despite there being a newbies section, but felt the need to let you all know what I'm doing to the '91 UK Z32 TT I bought at the weekend. To be honest, she's a bit of a shed, but I'm determined to get her looking and performing well. She's got an idle problem which sounds a bit like a misfire...possibly due a fuel leak (I can smell fuel). In addition to running the diagnostics and checking for leaks, I'm getting my mate Matt (who will probably be using this forum ID to ask for help) to service my car and give her a good going over. He occassionally helps out at an MX5 specialist, so knows all about those, but will have a steep learning curve with the Z! Here's what he'll be doing on Thursday: Engine flush, oil and filter Spark Plugs Gearbox Oil Diff Oil Coolant flush Underseal Investigate the wiper washer wiring (they only spray when the rear wiper switch is on???) Change brake fluid Check PAS fluid Check tyres Compression test Renew air filter Find out why you need to hit the N/S headlight to make the lamp come on Replace wiper blades Adjust handbrake Clean Throttle Bodies Clean the Idle Speed Control Valve...god knows where that is! Grease door/bonnet/boot hinges and latches etc Clear Targa drains Other jobs to do in due course are: Remove the foam spoiler Change the discs and pads Re-upholster the seats, door cards, centre console etc Change gear stick bush Replace Electric Aerial I'll update as and when each one is sorted, or if we need any help! Photos to follow!