NA6CETOM

Blocked PCV?

WD40 for the seatbelt, let it dry and spray lithium (white) grease to relube it. Otherwise change it soon...fundamental to your safety no matter how good a driver you are :)

That's for the brake master cylinder...I can't remember exactly why it needs to be connected, but it should connect to the loom somewhere around there!

If they're crummy in the wet, think about looking for some new (decent) rubber if changing the brakes doesn't have the desired effect.

If it is ECU related, reset it by pulling the fuse or disconnecting the battery for a minute or two. Worth a try before looking elsewhere. It could also be a speed sensor fault.

Me and my mate Matt (who is very good with this sort of thing) will be about next weekend if that helps? We're in Fareham too.

Fuel gauges are sh1te IMO...they never give a linear output. Parking at a slight angle doesn't help either. I thought it was a 60 litre tank???

+1 for silicone sealant, just ensure both surfaces are clean beforehand. Allow the sealant to dry for five minutes on the plenum before fitting the balance bar. Also, tighten each bolt up a bit at a time, ie, don't tighten bolt all the way up before starting on the other one...doing it gradually should help, much like on a head or cam cover.

I help out at an MX5 specialists in my spare time. We get seats and interior bits fully reupholstered on a regular basis by a chap called Paul Bishop, in Owslebury (Nr Winchester). Having seen his work compared to others, he's easily the best...by a wide margin too. PM me if you want his contact info.

You are only meant to turn the CAS when setting up the timing. OP - A failed/failing CAS will cause all sorts of problems, including the ones you mention. A breakers should have one, or try Fleabay. Running rich may be down to an O2 sensor, but sort the CAS out first and go from there.

airbags off = bent chassis IME. It will handle like a pig, even with straight wishbones and the geometry realigned. Your really can't judge the damage just from the exterior. It would be £5 down the pan IMHO.

I meant one of these: http://www.z32photoguide.com/sensors.html :)

Ahhh...right :) Would it be one of these? (9th picture down) It's likely that you now have the resistor in the correct place, as the car runs well. The loom can be deceiving as it's quite tight at the back of the engine bay. OR the connector was at fault, and lots of unplugging and re-plugging has helped to restore the connection. There are two connectors right next to each other, it's easy to get them mixed up.

No offence, but I have no idea what the hell you just wrote there. A little punctuation goes a long way :)

Oh crap, that smilie doesn't work on here...cheers Joely!

:thumbup:

Just seen your reply Joely...cheers. I was a bit worried about breaking something! Time to get the elbow grease out :)

Really? They were too hot the first time I tried! Is it just a case of the two jubilee clips and the 10mm bracket nut? Or is there more I should take off?

The harsher climate is why they don't salt their roads...the conditions are just too extreme, so they don't bother This is partially why alot of used, imported cars are supplied with snow tyres and/or chains. The temperate climate (neither here nor there) of the UK is why our chassis' suffer in the winter.

Sounds normal to me, an alarm/immobiliser will be drawing current, as well as a boot light if fitted (can't remember if the Z has one!) Batteries, especially older ones will not hold their charge for as long as a new one either, particularly when they haven't been used for a while. How long are we talking? Weeks? Months?

Oh, and preferably a JDM. They have been exposed to salty UK roads for not as long. My UK spec had a few rust issues.

As per the title really. I need to clean the Throttle Bodies, but can't get the damned hoses off...any suggestions please chaps?

Check the sticky just above your thread :) HTH

I'd get your geometry checked by a proper pro. I can recommend TDI North in Warrington, who aren't 'too' far from N.Wales. The likes of Protyre etc just won't suffice. While they're under the car, they can have a look at everything else for you. As for the wear on the inside, that's down to running alot of camber. Sacrificing some of this will allow the tyres to wear more evenly, but you'll sacrifice some amount of grip in the corners. Not too sure about the wobbling under braking, other than incorrect tyre pressure and possibly warped disks too. Jack the back of the car up, handbrake off and check for binding as you rotate the wheels. Again, this will be much easier if the car is on a lift. A poor alignment setup won't help though. Are your bushes polyurethane? If so, I've never heard of these wearing, even after 8 years. Did you get the geometry setup after you fitted the bushes?

Bet you've got the OEM/OEM spec top mounts though, the OP's problem is clearly to do with the length of the top mount studs. :) New dampers don't usually come with aftermarket top mounts, whereas coilovers (they come with springs) usually do. Going back to the two thread thing, why risk something so evidently close to you as your Z, for the sake of not doing it properly because it's easier?