syko

I,ve got a pressure test kit and the block testing fluid, butI'm in Yorkshire Richard

I should be there as soonas I've changed mi clutch again Richard

don't get me started on clutches,,,,,HAD ACT nothing but judder problems, now going on to RPS fingers crossed

does the lead work ???

my deepest sympathy, I'm lost for words.....hope you get through this sad time..think of you kids..!!

ONE thing for sure the prongs are not bent, i always make sure I don't catch them when fitting Richard

this is deffo not an engine mounting judder believe me , u would think the clutch cover was like a banana it bounces the transmition chronically oh and I put the ACT clutch kit on the standard flywheel after having it skimmed for true ness and still same, thats the only reason I put a new flywheel on to eliminate the cahnce of judder again with a second new clutch from ACT, luke at Zed centre has been very good with replacing the clutch but I think am gonna upset him now this one is the same,I 'm trying to do everything possible to make sure nothing else can cause it but it looks like the clutch. Smithy, the only reason I didn't buy a rps clutch was because I was told they are remanufactured and ACT are brand new, price about same so apart from changing the gearbox for another one ad well HELP???

yep same symptons I've got so whats the cure?? change to rps or try a 3rd clutch from act or put paddle centre plate in?? am at the end of mi tether with this

Andy, its bouncing through the car as iff the clutch has got a high spot Richard

cheers, will try it, but mine isn't a paddle only street heavy duty but i'll try it richard

surely that can't be right , or am I expecting too much for over £300 worth of clutch??

I'm getting p***ed off with this problem, here's the story, 1/..Converted to manual(big mistake) fitted ACT clutch unit including spiggot bush and had flywheel skimmed to eliminate any chance of any problems(so I thought) ran car seemed ok but got bad clutch judder, slipped clutch a bit did 100 miles seems worse when warm. 2/ removed gearbox removed clutch inspected checked runout on flywheel was 0.010" had it reskimmed and checked runout on engine within 0.002" ok refitted box. 3/ ran car and clutch judder still there did 250 miles and still there worse when warm but still boincing car about 4/ removed gearbox and fitted another new clutch from ACT and fitted lightweight flywheel to eliminate anymore chances of judder also replaced all bearings in gearbox whilst in bits started car up clutch seemed fine test drove ..seemed fine took it out again,,,,,,,,,,,,and judder re-appeared just as bad Am gonna torch it f**k it THE QUESTION???? is there a problem with ACT clutches or am I unlucky, as I can't think of anything else that would cause it and its getting me very p**sed off help Richard

when I did my manual conversion I fitted the extension bleed pipe and it bled up no problem,,, am glad I fitted it now , so there was a good reason for nissan to fit it lol

I thought it looked realy good then I got to the last part of the page.......................................not twin turbo lmfao!! that just killed its pig!!

I'm from..Barnsley willing to meet when time and work permitting

I know its a repeat question but what is the best oil to use , or is the ep 90 in w/shop book recommended best to use, I know i've seen it somewhere to use mt90 redline, if so who supplies it?? Richard

continentals on mine 19"

these coil packs would only give you as much spark as the plugs fitted would allow surely

99 spec look the best to me Ian

QUALITY i PISSED MISEN!!! :hyper: :dance: :rofl: :nana2:

time served motor vehicle technician, 20 years and counting FFS

I know exactly where that sucker is mate!! if you look on the main side casing there is a 14 mm bolt holding a sleeve in remove that and the spring goes in there and ball bearing , you put it in last after casings back on and stick it together with grease before inserting, even tilt gearbox so you are pushing the sleeve with spring and ball in from underneath to make sure it doesn't drop out until its fully located richard

Having to strip these gearboxes is no fun , main casings is easy but then........ when 5 th gear is a b***ard to remove. they are an inteference fit gear on the splines...and by fook it woz tight, using hydraulic pullers they were bending the c clamps around the gear FFS. I woz just about to consider smashing the gear until I found the price of the litlle bugger........................£210 plus vodka wtf?? I like especially the nissan workshop book showing how to use the puller set to JUST remove gear lmfao . twats :hurl: anyway I now have one big jigsaw to rebuild when i've measured all the baulk rings and replaced them as required. moan over :cool: richard

is there any vibrations with these as I'm thinking of having one made , to do away with centre bearing feedback required????

luke at zed centre is doing some at a very good price