fry1

All I can go if is the way my tub seals have gone, the oil change enabled me to go to a hill climb day and after spending hours thrashing the car it got worse and worse, symptoms are the same as yours, I will be pulling the engine to replace the turbo's, mine has new stem seals so its unlikely to be those at fault. When I put the engine in I knew the tubs were on there way out and it has got gradually worse, if you want to wait 3 or 4 weeks I can tell you the outcome of replacing the turbo oil seals

Yup add oil and re test. It sounds like turbo oil seal though, when you accelerate you have enough back pressure and gasses to hold the oil in, on overrun you suck the oil out and you get clouds of blue smoke, try going ahhem a little faster than normal and see if you get smoke on overrun further up the range, it should be a lot less and will get worse as you get slower, an oil change with a thicker viscosity will probably lesson it in the very short term but it will be back to the same as soon as the oil starts to break down. Mine has been getting worse and worse and I know its the tubs as I have completely ragged them and they were half shot when I put the engine in so ni complaints from me about having to pull it all back out again doohhh

Did you check for fault codes on the ecu, not just replacing the ecu, could also be fuel pump giving up on longer runs and on higher demand

Could be a fault with the main engine harness but you would expect something to show up on idle too, have you checked the ecu for any fault codes ? Have you checked for any boost leaks ???

Hope the link works it was taken at the weekend at prescott hill climb, some one asked a while ago what it sounded like and I have been far to lazy to take any clips myself. Its the 3rd one from the start, but you would be able to tell that from the zaust wouldn't you :wack: http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s12/TrIcK361/?action=view&current=15062008014.flv

Sounds like one of the tappets is sticking, worn or generally become faulty

And the performance engines in every performance car that leaves a mass production line how come they don't have a 1000 miles put on them before they are sold, do new Nissan's spend a week going round a track before they are handed over ?, what suddenly makes a home or professional rebuild so fragile ??. Don't get me wrong I'm not after an argument I just don't see the logic

Nice list of mods The 5 miles was of my own calculations of how many times the pistons will have travelled by the time its done a few miles, I have never been an advocate for prolonged running in times, gone are the days when you had to put a note in your window saying please pass running in engine. I have rebuilt several engines, the vg was rebuilt by a friend who I trusted to build it, non of these got more than a shake down for major problems before being driven err normally if there is such a way to drive a car. It makes little difference on what parts you fit in the engine the engine still works the same, forged pistons can give a little extra noise till warmed up but every thing else works the same, your crank still relies on oil to protect the bearings, same as the cams the valves the turbos, the oil seals bed in very quickly, every thing is protected by a film of oil and should have no metal to metal contact what so ever, so your running an engine in for a thousand miles for the piston rings. I understand every one has there own Ideas of what is right and wrong and its best to stick with what your comfortable with, my engine has run fine for a year now at 17psi, one of the turbo oil seals is going but the turbo was on its last legs when it was fitted.

This gets me very confused, what is it you think your bedding in for 500 or a thousand miles ? how many new cars come with stickers saying please only drive to 3k for the first 300 miles, change the oil drive another 200 miles change the oil, go to 5k and another 100 miles going to 6 k whilst eating a muffin holding a cross and reading the bible backwards ?? just about every component in the engine is protected from being damaged and or causing damage by a thin film of oil, the only thing your bedding in is the piston rings into the bores, any metal to metal contact on any of the bearing surfaces will result in engine wear and or damage, you don't want to run an engine in with fully synthetic oil as if you drive it very carefully you can glaze the bores stopping the piston rings bedding properly, that's why you can buy oil to run an engine in. It pays to be careful to make sure you don't pop a loose hose and to keep a check nothing is a miss but if you do some quick maths how many times do you think the pistons have travelled up and down after 20 miles let alone hundreds.

It doesn't really shorten the life of your turbo it just shows up what's already worn, no back pressure will suck oil through the seal if its worn, if its not you will be fine, chances are they will be worn

Will do cheers

non in your garage is there :wack:

Thanks, the rear's will be fine its just the front that's the problem, infarct my next job is to try and find a pair of the wider 8.5 rims of the later zeds :D

236 may just work with a 5mm spacer, I,m up in Newcastle its a bit far to pop round, thanks for the offer though, do they have a rim protection rib on the outside edge ?

This may sound daft but seeing as you have the tyre I'm after :D, can you put a straight edge across the wheel both sides and measure the tyre's maximum width Please, a picture of it would be good too, I,m not after a budget tyre I just don't want to buy tyres that don't fit the front

Can I ask how long your planning on running the engine in for ??, I have never been a one for prolonged running in, if you don't get the piston rings bedded in very quickly you can end up with glazed bores and poor compression, after mine was rebuilt the engine got run in for a gentle 5 miles with with a few hard runs runs then it was off to JAE and normall driving

Yes and i have stock 225 50 16 but different tyre manufacturers have different designs some with bulging side walls and some with flat, a bulging side wall like the ones I have adds 10mm or more to each side of the tyre which is causing the clearance problem thats catching my shock.

Open the hood stand over the engine listen when running and get some one to turn the engine off, if you have a split hose you should be able to hear it as vacuum will suck air in through the split, if its only opening up under pressure and you cant find it, blank off the intake and pressurise the pipework to find leak, would start by checking all hoses first though.

Its a zed ! start off fearing the worst and hopefully it can only get better, lack of power would be caused by a boost leak and it should also give over fuelling, squealing noise whilst not on boost does not sound good though, if its just been rebuilt check for anything that may be loose

gaskets and or turbo failure

Car is an s13, with s14 hubs 5 stud hubs, s14 agx shock, s13 spring, 300zxtt 225 50 16 tyres The tyre is catching the side of the shock body, clearance every wher else is fine, It looks like I need about 9mm to clear the shock but this puts the tyre out of the arch, if the tyre was 225 I would have loads of room but the width of the tyre across the widest part is 245. I don't mind buying tyres for it but I would like to keep the width at 225 I cant afford to buy a selection of tyres to see what will clear, I could drop the tyre height ratio to 40 instead of 50 if that makes the side wall go straight instead of bulging. I cant fit wider arches either as I have an s15 front end to go on the car just to confuse things further:wack:

whilst swapping the engine gearbox and brakes from a 300zxtt to my 200sx I thought I may as well use the wheels too, thought that would be the easy bit. general opinion on our board was yup straight fit may need 3mm - 5mm spacer, mine don't fit unless I go to a 15mm spacer at which point the tyre sticks out from the arch, the only difference i could think of was the tyres them selves, I have a set of cheap federal tyres, the bulge with weight is not the problem its the overall width of the tyre, I understand low profile tyres are going to have no bulge but I want to keep stock zed rims and I want a tyre with a good speed rating hence the f1. Some one must have an f1 tyre on a stock rim

is any one running goodyear eagle f1 tyres on standard rims I need to know the tyre width measured from side wall to side wall, I know the standard tyre is 225 but the ones I have are 225 across the tread but with side wall bulge they measure 245, I need to know if the f1 tyres are a flat side wall with a square edge where it meets the tread cheers

1cm is unlikely to be spigot catching it should have started entering by that small a gap, have you made sure nothing is catching round the edge of the box, you could try nipping up a few bolts at an even pattern gently all way round box and see if it pulls together ?

Most anything can be welded up if you have the patience time and the desire, if you feel its worth the end result then get on with it, do be aware though that you will come across rust in places you didn't think existed Have a look through the following thread on sxoc I,m sure your zed wont be any where near as bad but it may give you some inspiration, or put you off lol http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=285498&highlight=rusty+legs