fry1

Funny you should post this, my mate just snapped his on an rb25 box today was thinking the same thing, was contemplating making the hole where the fork is a little bit bigger, will depend if there is enough room to get the new pivot in place and screwed back in, i did a search on the net but nothing came up. I may be able to update this in a few days, one way or another its going in :wack:

Would you really need full trader section on the board, a banner add may suffice and it wont take long to get you noticed ?

I was lucky I had spare housings with clear holes, just as well.

You cant kill a car because of rotten sills, is that all or are there other things on the fail list ??

same snapped bolt on both housings evidence of fooked oil seal

Good circlip pliers and be prepared for one at least one of the bolts in the zaust housing to snap other than that its not that bad a job, worst bits I had were , snapped bolts, big cir clip holding compressor housing ( doddle with snap on pliers) and the little cir clip that holds the bottom oil seal in place, fiddly thats all.

Had the same thing with a tdi cupra, foot down bang no power pipe off, he's in for a surprise next time bloody cars :rofl: Smoke could be tubby on the way out or pcv valves.

Sheffield, cant remember company name found them on the internet after local company laughed and said no one is going to do that, cut both ends of gave them the length and it was back in 4 days

Needs must i suppose, mine cost about 120 to get new uj's and converted to a one piece, I didnt have to drive the car any where though and its not a problem if its parked up for a week or several months which is usually the case

Why not just take your prop off then send it or take it to a prop company and say the magic words one piece prop please

Estimate or your self or what a plumber would charge ? Without seeing it its always hard to tell, labour wise its all doable in a day, fittings for moving things probably less than 40quid

Make sure you check the core for wear, if the end where the seal runs is worn replacing the seal wont help for long

just noticed this, sent you the details

you have to empty your in box as its full.

fpr or fuel delivery problem, blocked filter/ pump on the way out ?

Sure its not just a boost leak, I have spare afm, cas ignition amp etc

Det and running lean are different things either way you want to avoid both

What he said mine wont hold at .9bar now :headvswal

Clutch, could cause damage if you keep driving it to the point of slipping, just think how much heats been generated. Noise wise are you sure its nothing mechanical, thrust bearing, gearbox prop bearing etc

Thanks, I managed to get the old one out eventually so going to replace it with another, throttle bodies appear to be sticking slightly and not letting the tps go low enough to set the soft closed for the tb's, hoping to sort that and the switch, set the idle and stop the damn thing from continually cutting our :wack:

I have had trouble getting a stable idle, am now thinking this may be part of the problem, I have probably been lowering it with idle valve too much due to above and then it tries to cut out. Do you now if it keeps timing increased when driving ?

What effect will a dead neutral switch have on the running of the car ? as I have one and to add to the misery its refusing to come out :rant:

Cut them off

I just went through this and found small leaks every where. I blanked off the afm by replacing it with a jar then pressurised the whole system with a co2 bottle not too much pressure, then used gas leak spray to locate all the leaks, (gas leak spray is non corrosive), strangest ones I found were around the top of the studs that hold the balance bar down, I dont have the original domed nuts on it and they leak through the threads. Just spray every pipe you can see, some are not very easy to see but if you spray enough you can here the bubbles. vacuum leak will turn into boost leak once its past the inlet of the turbo's and they build pressure

If you can get a bit of room under the zed changing the cross member is fairly straight forward, need to support the engine though :D, I would be amazed if that has rusted to the point of being an mot failure and nothing on the rest of the car has. Brake pipes get a flare tool some fittings and pipe and learn how to do it your self, will save you a fortune in years to come