fry1

I fear it will be very easy for them to justify the prices they have charged if it goes to court unless you have an estimate for the work before they started

True I did miss that bit :D It would still retain the initial grunt of the na, the turbo is at the back out the road, engine still remains easy to work on and would be cheaper than trying to squeeze another 40hp out of an na without some sort of forced induction

Its true such a small thing as batteries can save so many lives. I lived in a flat a few years back and a lad died under similar circumstances, the local news filmed the flat from the outside but filmed it with my van between them and the fire, the result, a few panicky phone calls to see if I was dead

rear mounted single turbo same as the one that was at jae, lovely install and 350 on standard na engine, was very clean install and available as a full install

Couple of those prices on the list are ok ish some are:shock:

the one just off the a19 opposite the nissan garage , just had a refurb too :D, any time from 7, I'm easy to spot I have the 200 that sounds like a 300 :dance:

I stand corrected although I'm sure mine switches on sooner than 105 and it has no aircon never mind the switch to put it on or off

Been in touch with Kim and wondered if you would like to come to a joint meet with the sxoc http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=423190 Not quite August but hey, first sunday of Sept (6th ) as above

The aircon fan is switched on regardless at 90 by the ecu as a backup for when the viscous cant hack it in traffic jams, you could use that as a secondary, Its used on mine as a backup for when I forget to switch on my fan manually

Are you after the stainless copex type flexi stuff used for flues ??

How did you check for boost leaks

Pressure will attempt to stall the turbo's and you will have stall noise, some call it pigeon mod I think it sounds more like a turkey :wack:

Looks better without and would look better again if you removed the wiper

Sorry but why do you think you have adjustment on the pedal :wack:, it would all be preset and it would have a plain rod with no adjustment, I have never understood how so many people have a problem setting up a clutch pedal. Once you remove fluid from the system you have altered the relation ship between the master and slave, its best to just set it all up again.

If it is a zed block they have swapped over all the bits required to get it to fit, sump, oil pickup, plenum, exhaust manifolds etc, would be interested to know what they did with all the plumbing at the rear of the block because that's where the crossover for the manifold goes. I doubt its still the 3.2 either

Assuming all is well with clutch assy, pivot, fork etc, If you look at the point where the rod attaches to the pedal you should have a lock nut and a threaded bar, when you start you should have the bar screwed in to the pedal as far as it will go, bleed the clutch, ( need to do that to then set the pedal adjustment ) then remove any slack from the pedal by screwing the bar back out so the clutch starts moving the slave after minimal movement on the pedal, be careful not to over do it you don't want constant pressure on the clutch. That's the best way I've found to do clutches.

Is that the engine out of the gloria ??

Did you adjust it at the pedal ?

You dont need a huge amount of pressure to find the leaks, strangest ones I found were from the nuts holding down the balance bar, the studs go into the plenum and if like me you lost the posh domed nuts they leak round the threads. Oh yea if any one has a few spare I still need to replace them

To make sure the wheels are centralised properly

Yup your going to need to adjust the pedal to the same position as your old one, slacken off lock nut and screw the adjuster to take up the slack.

We tested one of these with a logger in line with an oem afm, it could not react as smoothly to changes and spiked wildly, was not impressed You are likely to get over fuelling with the spikes and the voltage range looked to top out quicker than the oem.

So let me get this right, The club rules are you have to be paid up member to post in the sale section. Your no longer a paid up member but you could still post on your sale thread because of a glitch or permission error in vbb, the thread was closed because of that. And its stellaZ's fault :wack:

yup

Good luck, I have a spare box I was going to dig out and see what the possibilities are, your going to need to retrieve the snapped off bit too dont forget.