robwilde

use thinners then using a buffer get stuck in with some g3 and your plastics will come up mint remember to use water aswell

cheers jeff well at least i know what the switch is for now and whatever is on chip is coming off as i am changing it putting a socket on board so i can change as i want.. thankyou jeff .. i might buy on of the conzult kits as i pln on having e few of these cars in times to come and would be very handy.. just another quicky is it easy to do the diagnostics to check for faults and where would i find a fault guide to the codes ??

what should i do i need to find out if my ecu is a bog standard ecu or not Jeff does your ecu have a vairiable resistor in it right next to the led for diagnostics i assume .it has a silver sticker over it with arrows pointing around the circle one end a line the other end a block baffled. will do more research..

ahhhh so i have a manual ecu in an auto is this bad ??? and the green wires are stock ???

Cheers jeff i thought it was something fishy i work with electronics boards and the likes every day and i can spot a solder blimp a mile off and these wires although look well installed just did not look right to primative..plus the knob end was broken off .. hopefully removing it might make thinks better hope so cheers

ECU identification i have no23 with a knob on side with some jap writing .. 2 wires green coming of what seems to be a vairiable resistor.. any ideas what this is for ??? got ecu out as new chip coming tommorow and just interested what its for. also chip reads m105ada5 is this a standard chip cheers:)

yess if your car has any odd bits looking crapp rub it down saying that you need to be very even when doing so especially on a white or red car as white goes yellow in time and red pink .. if you had a red car with shed loads of white oxy it can be removed with wet and dry 1600 and a good rubbing block .. once you find your origonal colour get out he g3 then the g10 then the autoglym .. a perfect solution for the poo painter who dribbles and ends up with runs ..just rub em out ...Its called flattening the paint job ..seriously ive seen some terrible paint jobs salvaged using this method ..although you can get the car a new clear coat once rubbed back to origonal colour.. really would bring an old paint job alive again../

you can buy ready made led bulb style lights which fit in existing bulb holder and im sure leds are capable of increased voltage.. which in turn increases intensity....to get very bright leds they need to flash with an even higher voltage they can not take it continously so a flashing circuit is used very fast to quick for naked eye.. you can buy all this stuff already made indicator bulbs made with yellow leds etc etc .. i got mine from maccess carparts (gone bust now though )

you need some G3 buffing compound maybe a bit of p1200 wet and dry .. start with the wet and dry rub out the lumps dont worry about scratches they come out .. once paint is flat using the g3 and plenty of water and a buffing circular sponge get buffing once it looks greasy stop wipe down and dry of .. get some autoglym and smear it on with ya hand rubbin plenty into paint let it dry.. now wipe of access ... check results and repeat proccess if it loks cack.... dont go maD with the wet and dry and remember to use water... if you want a real fine cut use g10 compound then the glym... its a white car so you have the easiest colour to hide impurities ...... Rob

Drag racer version iii (3)

no its a custom car racing game where you win and buy turbo improvememnts wheels etc

http://www.streetracersonline.com/flash/drgrcr3.php:duffer:

it looks AWSOME ;-)

ant what bodykit is that you have ? is it the front bumper skirts wings and rear as a kit or seperates.. cheers Rob

ive heard Hydrofluoric Acid would dissolve ceramic at the same time clean any metal . . Because of its ability to dissolve metal oxides, hydrofluoric acid is used in the purification of both aluminium and uranium. It is also used to etch glass, to remove surface oxides from silicon in the semiconductor industry, as a catalyst for the alkylation of iso-butane and butene in oil refineries, and to remove oxide impurities from stainless steel in a process called pickling. Dilute hydrofluoric acid is sold as a household rust stain remover. Recently it has even been used in car washes in "wheel cleaner" compounds.[1] Due to its ability to dissolve silicate compounds, hydrofluoric acid is often used to dissolve rock samples (usually powdered) prior to analysis. precautions Symptoms of skin exposure to dilute HF are not felt immediately, but can be fatal. Highly concentrated solutions may lead to acute hypocalcemia, followed by cardiac arrest and death. This will usually be fatal in as little as 2% body exposure (about the size of the sole of the foot). This substance should be handled with extreme care, beyond that accorded to hydrochloric, sulfuric, or other mineral acids. Use the first option a good old henry vaccum with a fish pipe ;-)

i tell you what that item is worth every penny

look at this maybe it would help alot of kit to fit but probably well worth it never tinkered with a honda but im sure it would fly .. paste this link in http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TURBO-KIT-HONDA-B-SERIES-FOR-CIVIC-INTEGRA-BRAND-NEW_W0QQitemZ360097877723QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item360097877723&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1299%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

after market turbo for honda would make a big diffence if you can get them i have a bmw 323 2.5 with a turbo charger on it and it would keep up with a standard 300zx tt easily

im almost certain its a spark issue as my car does exactly same thing and i have a coilpack knackered with the other 5 with suspect connections if i rev it it pops now and then .and cat heat light comes on meanig fuel blowing up in exaust not good as the dust from the cat can fubar the turbo seals locate which pot is not sparking swap coil packs around to confirm broken coil pack or connection .. remember this is only a suggestion dont go mad like i did pulling of all tghe connectors and end up with a bag of coilpack connection plugs in bits....lol ive also been told it could be a plug more likly to be some crasppy connector though..

cheers paul found it .. if they put a small banner up top with subscribe here for all extra goodies i htink it would help ....

stu ive been looking all over this site and i can t find where to subscribe .. how frustrating...... a suggection to forum owners is to put a nice sticky on main page with the link to membership and benefits would make sence and alot of money too... im a car trader also who has fell in love with this car so i think i will be spending alot of time on here anyway..just mooching... have had the chance of alot of these cars but the one i just got in is lovly red with 18"alloys grey leather etc etc im just going to get it running right first... then do the simple mods filter boost nozzles chip and plugs and pipes... i have a real interest in making some good mods for this car i think... i might hard wire the loom to the coilpack using spade connectors then fill with silicone and let it dry then fit a plug on to loom and one on the wire coming from colipack.. this will sort the problem for sure and if i lightly pray with wd before putting silicone in it will create a nice silicone watertight plug ..lol i hope if it does im going into production big time a nice fitting rubber bung plug is the way forward ..maybe i dont know yet after this weekend we will see what my mad ideas have come up with ....

cheers stu the design is rubbish so many connectors that are all crap.. somebody needs to desxign a new whole rig for this car to sort this problem out once and for all im going to work on a solution ... i think a bunch of ht leads to a coil manifold with 6 coils on it with hardwired connections as it would not need to move also it would be nice and cool away from the block.. ill see what i get time to do just the price of 6 connectors and 2 coil packs is alot at 150 quid then probably a ptu aswell at another 150 .. if i can design a good alternative solution maybe for half that price. now the task is finding a space for a few coils to sit maybe 3 each side somwhere . what do you think stu could it work ??

the wiring on my car is poo all brittle and all coilpack connecvtors are shot also injector connectors aswell does anybody know where i can get new ones to solder into loom cheers Rob:headvswal

cheers dave will do basically i have now resided to the fact i need to give the car a full new set of plugs and fully check all sensors and there respective connectors ..Also alot of the pipes on this car seem old and i think need replaced .. they are all very hard and have lost there elasticity which i believe could cause poor air tight connections.. also going to remove k&n filter wash it and dry properly and check air flow sensor for any gack on it ..Ive also decided to remove cats and intsall some boost jets when my new ecu arrives .. just a quick question if i removed all plugs then put in new plugs but just sat them on block to check spark do you think this would help me identify if i had a stray spark as probably i would see which plug or plugs were to blame ? these engines are a nightmare for dodgy sensors surly somebody could just bring out a bypass for all the unnessasary gack wernt engines so much better with out electronics.. a good old file and some wet and dry used to work great.. Rob

this has really helped me locate my problem i had light on and was told i needed plugs so im going to change plugs and reseat all coil pack and check all connections .. im so happy i read this i want to fix it now but its bas***d freezing and dark .. cheers Rob