greg

daz loves it really, tinkering wih un-reliability haha

LOL exactly hopefully they have not installed chocolate rings :nelson:

LOL i exagerated whole job took 4hours off and back on :rofl: it is handy to have more room, although its not a 300, so you cant have it all. :cool: am open to PX matey, its a fair few quid, but there is no problems with the car so its worth it to the right person :cool: cheerZ, Yes is a common problem, although the thickness off the new gasket iv fitted should outlive the turbo and the car, i should expect the outcome running 1 bar of boost :D

LOL the table needs varnishing :p 4k and the mundano :D

my s14a is up for sale, and sods law there was a blowing noise from the turbo region, and slightly down on power, So 1hr 30min later with turbo off i find this.... :shock: old and new gasket back to back, now has solid metal one fitted fortunatly the 300zx turbo-manifold gaskets are much better quality, you would not want to take the engine out every 55k miles LOL greg

get the other half to do a headstand to the loo, works a treat :p

happy birthday for yesterday dude.

if it was a clogged injector it would be slighty differant and less intermitant. if the car is running fine on 6 then dont touch what is not broke! as you can un earth other problems by routing around, i would suggest checking the connector if the cylinder drops a *****ck again, and go from there. You dont want an engine managment light on the dash, unless there is a fault with the car. Or do you mean before you start the car? I would not worry about the miss, until it returns ;)

boat like then :p ;) LOL

seriously though, check the injector connector! and clean it with some contact spray, it could also be an intermittant PTU or faulty wiring from PTU-COILPACK. if the problem still persists, take it to someone who knows! its not a good idea to run a vehicle for sustained periods of time, whilst a cylinder is not firing! this will cause excessive fuel build-up this may well cause damage to the bores/rings (bore wash) so get it sorted sooner rather than later if you change the PTU for a good one or new type S2 version, this may well help cure the intermitant miss. if problem is not resolved and all options are covered, carry out a compression test/leakdown test to eliminate engine problems, but its more likely to be an electrical problem also space out your writing, as it hurt my eyes trying to read it ;)

and breath LOL

LMAO how much did you pay for that breaker ;)

good luck bud, dont worry about what people say on here, just take your time and find the right one, idealy take someone local who knows what there looking at, last thing you want is to buy a ruff 300zx cheerZ greg

:D

not much luck lately bud! how about another reliable v8 LOL

overclockers? quite litterally!

turbo techics mate and go 360degree thrust bearing on standard turbo or you could go larger housing, or use a true t28 but you will then need to get matching downpipe elbows dont use midland turbo as a warning IMHO

there is a small access hole between the bellhousing and the engine, you will know if the seal has gone, as the bottom of the gearbox will be wet with engine oil and £240 sounds like either a cheap paddle clutch or an OEM kit, id be happy with 20,000 miles on a clutch TBH but average life should be 40-60k miles

you dont need a wiring loom! the only plugs on a TT loom that are not on an NA loom is boost solenoids x2 but the best way is to fit a boost controller with its own solenoid you wont need the stock ones. engine bay is the same, you will find a few hoses not needed to be connected as there are less vac feeds on the NA engine, you can blank these off, its a case of using common sense. you will need to fit all the pipework for the intercooler/s there are no bolt points on the na shell so you have to just run them, and either weld them or secure them, radiator positions are differant, so you can either fabricate brackets or sit it on top of the NA lugs fuel pump is ok if you run standard boost, but if your planning on bigger power then either fit a TT fuelpump which is good for 550hp or use a walbro 255ltr PH TT ecu is required you can use the NA injectors and rail if you run stock boost if you use an NA engine, you will need to swap the sump over as the TT one has oil returns for the turbos. also dont forget to mount your old NA power steering bracket back on to the TT engine, as there differant, and you dont want to be messing about swapping brackets over when engine is in!! greg

its bad enough being drunk finding 1hole, take your pick cant miss.

LMAO you beat me to it :p

if its slipping, no matter if there is is some air in the line. I would almost 100% say the clutch is fubard, 20k is not alot but perhaps the flywheel was not skimmed and it may eat a clutch plate much sooner! also might be worth checking the rear oil seal is not leaking and spraying on to the clutch/flywheel as this can also cause a slipping clutch greg

there nice cant beat a set of 5spokes on a z

they are good to use, if you build very little pressure you may cry though, thats the downside neil LOL

:( itl be ok matey ;)