greg

manual when i had my ****in z

football-arsenal

Yeh we know :rolleyes:

maybe it should be BK not PK :D HAVE IT YOUR WAY

get subscribed FFS pay ya £20 like every other fooker

r32 is best of the lot followed by r34 :duffer:

:( thats what i was going to get before i got the azevs for my z i think the pcd is differant 75%sure they wont fit

all the electrical connections are in better condition :D

:D its probably all in hand mate if you seen what i mean

mrogers bottom end tends to go bang dark warrior no4 piston tends to fail vijay left side of the engine is a problem think the above answer your question dont buy one :x:

LMAO :D no everyone else needs easy access to the underside of your car chunk :D

lol precisely

its good when everyone helps more like friends than members :duffer:

not a problem mate always happy to help see you tommorow to get that diff fitted :duffer:

if it says HKS ecu then that would be something like the hks f-con but you would notice that when you removed the pasenger panel. its possibly chipped best way to see is to remove ecu carefully remove the panel to the ecu and check inside if the chip looks like it has been socketed then its aftermarket if its soldered in then its the OEM chip,which i doubt it is as you have a boost controller,and unless there a numpty then they would of had it chipped!

z tech based in witshire http://www.ztech.co.uk or zen garage based in london is nearest to you

check the seal around the radiator cap and if it seems easy to screw on id recomend getting a nissan OEM rad cap rated at 1.2 bar try the cheapest 1st as said check pipes that run from under plenum to turbos and matrix hoses could just need the jubilee clips tightened if not for the sake of £15 each get them replaced a good sign to see for leaks over long periods is looking around engine bay and see for any hot water limscale marks on top of turbo housing,bellhousing around the front of the engine,once narrowed down it makes life easier good luck

use an air gun if you can get one failing that wrap an ancillary belt around the water pump and the crank loop it back on itself start to undo crank pulley with 27mm and long breaker bar as the belt gets tight the pulley has no where to go,works everytime :D

as said make sure the car is sorted 1st brakes and cooling is the most important things to cover even before you start doing other stuff induction-airflow isnt a problem its making the engine breath properly the first mod to do after you have covered the above,its ok adding 40-50 hp but when the engine is under increased load/temps lots of 14yr old parts are put under more strain turbos/drivetrain if you have the money tune it if you cant afford to leave it,although leave some money aside for any issues servicing not in this order but along these lines if yo were to spend money :D full service inc cambelt s plugs,filters etc induction aftermarket gauges water oil boost exhaust/decat brakes clutch[manual] ecu chip boost increase jets/controller koyo radiator or similar suspension shocks,springs,bushes intercoolers injectors forged internals pistons turbos engine managment remap rolling road new bank manager :D

sorry to hear that bud hope it gets sorted for you

:D PMSL look like a chav to me LOL@chunk :bow:

fookin spoil it :D

that bird you had sex with you in the 300zx the other night

found this fooker lurking around anyone know who it is :D

cant make it now