greg

rear cam seals,either from the rocker covers themselfs or the half moon inserts,plenum removal is required or rear main seal gearbox removal is required look where its dripping from is a good sign ;) ,if its the rear seal then oil will mainly be dripping of the gearbox if from above the gearbox then likely its the rear of the cams could also be one of turbo oil feeds,get car back togehther,then start it,see if you can see where the leak is coming from,clean old oil from the areas,so you can see where future leaks are

yes a poor sealing rad cap can cause this or if someone has deliberatly topped it up,remove the excess water with sucker or just drain the expansion bottle so the correct amount is in there

belgium meet :D and the first ever south west meet me david and marcus :rofl: ross on wye probably

congrats to the both of you :D meaning to come overbut havnt got your tel number

:wack: :wack: :wack: :wack: :wack: :wack: DEFO

whats normal :wack: is there such a thing :D

tightarse :D see why they call you rodders :rofl: ;)

you have always been mad :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: ;) :D

still try and have a nice xmas,and hope your dad has a speedy recovery

PTU power transistor unit front left of engine black finned box with harness,its a possibility when they removed engine they havnt fitted the 2 earth leads for the coil packs at the back of the engine,and may of fried the PTU,get another PTU or clean the connections to the old one heres a link to what your looking for,if it turns out it is the PTU buy a series 2 type there more robust,and will save you hassle in the future http://www.aus300zx.com/tech/moveptu/movingptu.htm

the crack pipe wins hands down :rofl:

looks like the exhaust has had to much vindaloo :rofl: ;)

yep best exterior mod by far,looking good gaz :bow:

fairplay to ya

meaning your quote :headvswal FFS because someone misred something,no need mate :nono: back to you

got a sore head mr pooper scooper :rofl: :rofl:

to true mate sorry smugglychap for whoreing your thread :rofl: :x:

as you can see nitropow,90% of people who have replied have been positive theres always a small few that ruin it IMO enjoy your car fella

cool ;) you can go 1 grade up but not 1 down,idealy though the correct grade is best,you had some fun getting the bearing from what i remember,but thats another story he says :D

keep digging :rofl: re-read no mention of fights just a debate jeez :headvswal

:eek: so you must of recorded the numbers on the crank to come up with the fact they were wrong,then took them to an engineers to get them measured :confused: crossmember/subframe/front suspension member define the differance? your right though,in the fact it isnt a difficult job,if your compentant and have a hoist,just the way you put it made me laugh,oh its easy LOL iv done about 4 bearing jobs and i dont enjoy doing it ,its harldy like changing the oil in comparison,is all i was saying ;)

i dont think for your average person its easy,if it was just a case of dropping the subframe life would be so much easier turbo oil return x2 removal loosen gearbox brackets both sides drain oil filter remove engine mount nuts remove coil packs engine hoist to lift engine of subframe remove all sump bolts about 20,peel sump from engine drop subframe 4x17mm nuts,idealy with air gun remove sump which is fiddly and only just fits through subframe inspect crank rod caps for play replace damaged bearings,using th correct grade,which is taken of the end of the crank,check crank is ok and no bearings have attached themselfs to the crank otherwise,all caps to be removed,crank support cradle,front of engine needs to be stripped so you can acsess the crank sprocket,oil pump etc etc etc etc iv missed lots but the point is,i dont think anyone should attempt it,unless you have time and some knowledge

as legrath says:its a case of what aint broke,wether it be just a worn bearing or damage to the crank you will be looking at £500+though

off topic bmw will charge the sum of approx £125 per key cut/transponded which is laughable,vauxhall charge around £50 for a crypto copy,cost more than the car FFS

yup that aint bad either,if the car is after 1998 then 99% off cars were fitted with transponder chips in the key so it will need programming and the chip copied over to the new key, if its before 1998 then thats excessive and from your local locksmith/keycutter would cost in the region at most £10 for a standard 6cut jag tibbe key