greg

not 100% sure as there not on the website at the mo,IIRC £55-60 delivered GENUINE NISSAN 11b

we are reopen on tuesday and the plugs could be in the post by next day as for price http://www.ztech.co.uk should be on there regards greg

yes the 300 has one as standard to just use an NA diff alone with the power running it would kill it quickly,the way to do it is use a TT diff and have the ringgear fitted with differant ratios similar to an NA do a search it has been covered,karlosg had this done for around £1200,search for it and you will find more info :)

aghh but i doubt a nova or fiesta would beat a SUPERCAR point is your coming on to a board that breaths 300s,and many people on here have stuffed some serious exotica if you like to call it that people that drive cars like novas etc who clain they have big power are known as chavs :smash:

go for it,follow a manual,take your time,keep all the nuts and bolts in respect to where they go-ie..screw them back in to there correct orrifice,make sure you have the correct tools,nowt worse than going to halfords every 5mins,as for the cam spinning off,if you turn the crank pulley bolt whilst the belt is still conected you can match them up to tdc that way once belt is off all the marks are at there correct point

nah mate just overnight accomadation when i had no food or money :)

ryan @ z tech has these in stock,could post them out to you from monday onwards if that helps the correct one is the 11b

PMSL try it sometime :tongue: free food and board bit like owning a z you get rashens to live on :rofl:

oil pressure gauge do commonly go,so dont panic,if in doubt fit an aftermarket gauge.and check oil every day religiously as for boost gauge if your getting 0.5bar thats around 7psi safety boost check with another gauge to make sure,or do an ecu diag check for code 34 dett sensor and do the bypass to cure it,do a search many people have done this to remove safety boost,or you could have a boost leak?probably the 1st as for vacuem reading minus- this will happen as its not under load so perfectly normal to have a large minus reading prop bearing is a common problem and more noticable from cold,replacement bearing cost around £130 plus 2-3hours fitting also check tyre pressures are with in spec 32psi at the front 36 at the rear if you have stock wheels or ajust accordingly depending on wheel size and profile as for the bloody text dissapearing,i edited it as there was a couple of spelling mistakes and i cut the whole fecking text :rolleyes: and couldnt be arsed to rewrite it :rofl: HTH greg :)

you having a laugh :wack: send him best wishes and to keep his spirits up

bloody postal services :rofl: :rofl:

agreed fairly difficult aswell,and considering most games or all games on mame are infinite play,as many credits as you want,at least r-type sends you back to the beginning of the level

:p i was being honest,maybe to honest,as said the cars were introduced at differant times the mk3 supra was developed to compete with the old 300zx z31,when the 300zx z32 came out toyota introduced the mk 4 supra so its all competition,i just think the mk 3 supra is like the z31 has dated badly

another reasonable priced tyre when needed next time is the falken range not sure off the type but i had them and so does speedfreek do a search on here! and it should come up with them,good allrounder and last well.

exactly £800 will get you a crap respray whats wrong with blue theres some famous blue zs in movies kill bill vol 1 and the chick showing her muff in that z vid :bow:

already posted this about 3weeks ago lol shame there wasnt some more 300s with some big power on show,especially as there is very few articles on 300s as it is in JP well done to all those that did it though!

quite common,most 300s do this for a few secs after startup until oil gets round the lifters,if it doesnt settle do an oil change with some good quality synthetic,and drive the car more regulary

the mk iii supra is and looks shit :duffer:

in japanese id say the fto is girlie looks great at the front then the designer thought fook it im skint lets make it look plain and camp at the rear :smash:

sometimes the gauges need an addition earth off the sender try making up a wire from the sender end of the water pipe to a ground,if that fails i should imagine you have a duff gauge,there are a lot of dodgy gauges out there,best ones that always work are the plain mechanical ones or the higher spec ones like greddy defi etc greg

happy b day :duffer:

cant make this either :(

blitz sbc is also a good one,had one on mine,simple to fit/use so an allrounder but as said on a budget the probec b is a good one aswell

HAPPY BIRTHDAY :duffer:

remove bleed screw from left side of radiator,once warm put heating to max,the top up rad from rad cap,and squezzed the back heater martrix hoses,they tend to get an airlock between the engine and the heater matrix so a good squeeze at the back of the engine,normally works keep topping up until no bubbles are present and full heat is coming out