greg

the hicas systym in its day was good,the problem is worn arms and bushes from the hicas makes the whole setup feel strange its down to the driver and which you prefer,i personally dont mind it. hicas eliminator sits in place of where the hicas unit is and the fluid lines looped for return as there not needed,thus in turn removes the hicas.

try to things first check power steering fluid reservoir as this acts as two systyms feeding the hicas and powersteering if levels are low light will come on if steering wheel has been removed then it may not of been put on 100% true and left the hicas hub at the incorrect angle! check plug coming for hicas and clean if nes as for speedo if it is an import it may of had a speedo conversion done,remove the clocks and hood etc,and check the wire from the speed sensor to the speedo convertor hasnt worked loose or the converter is faulty,this could also be the fault with the hicas light staying on,im guessing the rev counter works its just the sppedo that isent working

the way people go on,saying a lightened flywheel is fantastic driven 3 or 4 zeds including my own which has an rps lightened flywheel it may reduce mass,but i wouldnt say its an unbelievable differance yes may be a bit more revy but unless you have a spare £400 i wouldnt bother IMO

happy birthday mate :duffer:

:rolleyes:

yes they do

the unorthadox is the only one to go for bud,and is off the correct weight,none of the cheap shit of ebay :wack:

mmm looks stunning thats what your engine would of looked like new 15years ago :cool: them clear cam covers and blade would stay clean for mmm 5mins :smash: would look the mutts though

go on then,but only to whoop your arses at bowling :cool:

nice one mate,glad its sorted :duffer:

why would you want to fit manual cams ? its auto cams that are of differant profile,besides the only benefit would be if you had a manual and fitted auto cams and turbos due to profile and size,besides its marginal the benefit of having an auto to manual conversion is,you keep the auto tubs and cams and transmission loss is minimal

Cant find any pics like golddust anyway arrow pointing inbetween pump and bracket lever inbetween and trust me it will move doing that will probably move the pump further away! then by hand you should be able to pull it up to position required,if your careful to aid pulling the pump up sit lever bar between the main metal pipe coming from PS pump and this will pull it up just be careful to not strain the metal pipe

if the pulley id not on right id sort that out ASAP on load that little bit of wobble is causing a huge strain on the crank itself,and over time could cause some serious engine problems especially the bearings! problem could be the fact the woodruff key is not set properly it needs to be sat like a a wedge in the crank so the pulley goes over it all the way to the back,id imagine the key has pulled out when you done it up and sat behind crank pully causing it to foul tap it in so its shaped like a wedge and smear some copper grease on the inside of the crank pulley so it goes on smoothly good luck

you have 2 options you either slacken the long 12mm ajuster bolt and half place the belt over the pulley on the crank pulley and PS pulley,whilst turning crank it should pull it on the tighten to correct tension or place a big pry bar inbetween pump and bracket to move it up and down to the desired height-should take you no more than a couple of mins either way bud

i find electrical ones more hassle than there worth,good old fashioned mechanical gauges are better IMO and easy to fit,the amount of electrical gaues iv fitted that dont work correctly :rolleyes: ,i guess if you spend the money on quality gauges like defi or greddy then its money well spent when its your engine at stake :wack:

Crap pic alternator bolt is red dot,top of alternator if you stick your head down there you will see it,this wil enable you to move alternator side to side,once you have slackened 12mm bolt off loose

1/the nut loosens independantly from the pulley wheel as it has a plate sat in front of it 2/loosen the 12mm bolt that sit behind pulley this gives you your slack to fit bel,once belt is on tighten 12mm bolt until tension is reached,then tighten front 14mm to finish 3/not sure what you mean the 17mm or the 12mm ajusment bolt,neither are pulley driven the 17mm just holds the alternator in place on its bracket,12mm nut behind ajuster slackens ajuster and the 12mm bolt sets and slackens tension,if you mean the nut on front of the pulley wheel,leave alone this does not need to be slackened :cool:

bit like fox hunting,ban the feckers :smash: :rofl:

damaged alloy wheel i had a damaged alloy wheel and it vibrated above 50mph or low tyre tread,or what manta said above

looks nice mate,and the rear qts and rear screen tinted is the beat way ;)

karting ;)

no probs mate

ryan knows a company who sorts all are balancing camber toe in out etc,so once you have fitted the kybs etc give him a shout,there based in newbury,but have a good knowledge of the 300 and have all the specs for the correct setup on the 300,many cars that have wandered and just been poor to drive have been transformed after a complet setup greg

if you dont mind travelling guys we have a very good rolling road down the road from ztech who build and design there own turbos so have a good knowledge of general high performace cars and have took a few 300s there and have done a top job name of the company is owen developments,they mainly setup and sort fueling but have a fully equipted rolling road and decent fans

hmm fitted xpipes to my old zed within 5mins of fitting-smoke,so debatable,sound awesome though,and made a differance over standard decat setup