greg

good luck bud,you deserve a bit of a break with the old girl ;)

think thatl be spot on leigh,obviously the whole car is going to be so smooooooth,its all about being differant,good idea

complete asshole for what he did and have no respect at all,but dont forget he was still a worldclass fighter in his weight and division,still a cock though :rofl:

you know that chav :D

yeh them apples reduce anxiety :D

git :D i love you like a brother! the one i never fookin wanted :D :smw: ;)

dont do it when hot otherwise you risk scalding yourself,do it when cool,top up with required amount,if your water is looking rusty and not very clean,you may benefit dropping it all out and repalacing with new,making sure you remove the bleed screw and keep topping up until air is removed,and the heating is blowing hot air,then check daily through out the summer ;) if you just drain the rad out you will only require around 3-4litres use a 50-50 ratio of coolant and water

this is not for me,its for a friend,iv searched limewire,and others and cant find a file for the song,does anyone have this or can send me the file,it would be much aprreciated. song title kate bush under the ivy

thats ok,we have always used the feeds ;) apart from the odd aftermarket application!

there is going to be a lot of overheating issues when summer comes.so please make sure you have checked the car over correct coolant levels vital on these engines as they run so hot even worse in hotter weather,make sure you have enough coolant otherwise the inevitble will happen viscous fan,yes they do fail! so make sure yours is working fully,otherwise in long traffic with high temps,will also cause problems rad caps,again dont buy cheap imitation caps,these do not use the correct rating,and may also cause water to pressurise out the rad,OEM ones are best or speak to chris for a decent aftermarket one. radiators,koyo is by far best ;) and holds more water/coolant,if your using your stock radiator,which is off course sufficant,then makes sure you check the lower hose,for kinks/splits,and the jubilee clips are tight and are not of poor quailty the OEM wire clips are best,another failure over time can be the rad top where the cap screws on,over the years this can wear down and cause a poor seal,resulting in coolant to expel out of the radiator thermostatif it takes a while for your car to come up to temp,this could be due to clogged water channels,or a slow operating thermostat,if your z is due for a cambelt service,get the front stripped out and vital cooling items replaced inc... waterpump 2small hoses thermostat etc temp gaugethis is the most important gauge to buy,the stock one will start to rise at around 110 oc this is not good enough,by which time your engine is on its way to an early death,iv seen where people have not noticed there car overheating,and have melted all there coilpacks in the heads so be warned,get a decent set of gauges FFS any leaks you have put off!! get them fixed ;) i dont want to sound daft but it happens all to often,these engines dont like high temps and you dont need to visit the z hospital :o to many are as you can see

normally if you use the silicone gel/lubricant it reduces the noise-very slightly and needs to be done on a regular basis,reduces squaks aswell

*hicas arms/ends *tyre wear,due to poor camber at the front,fixed only by a)new tyres b)ajustable upper camber arms

yeh i got it,bit like getaway in stockholm,with a z :D

nice one,im ****ed then i abuse all the above :x:

bloody been going crazy here with the above anyone else had thunder today? love thunderstorms :bow:

if its the oem garrett turbos then no know a couple of people run without coolant feeds,but i would use them if i was you,can do a plenum bypass direct to the turbos of the rear pipes though some aftermarket turbos do not require coolant feeds but the stock do

will do bud :D

my whole familey have had heart disease,iv had pulpatations and chest pains,i always put of the docs as im paranoid lol,i put the pains etc down to my wild raves etc :x: anyways good luck bud,im sure all is well,as said better safe than sorry ;) all the best greg

removing the egr will not effect the car,it may run a bit higher on emmisions,benefit from removing is,if you need to remove the plenum for whatever reason,it makes this alot easier,you need to cut the pipe above the passenger manifold and weld it up,along with the 2 egr pipes that run left and right of the plenum,makes life easier to reach some of the fiddly hoses and heater pipes with the egr gone

bring it all on :D

andy you forgot to add it has had new turbos,bottom bearings,HG,manual conversion :D

to the club ;)

use a torque convertor bolt jobs a good-un ;)

engine oil will leak past the rear main seal,which in turn can cause clutch judder and slipping,the 300zx stock clutch with general wear and a boost increase will die very quickly,new rps sport will sort that,might be worth getting the flywheel skimmed whist she is out! checklist rear main seal release bearing needle bearing clutch cover and drive plate check and replace g.box oil whilst box is out ;) check centre bearing replace if nes! rps sport clutch will come with new needle bearing,release bearing,clutch and alignment tool and stickers :D

yep,and use a good quality fully synthetic