AndyP

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4146756343 And no I wasn't searching for this, someone sent it to me !

Sounds a litle clutch-ish to me ... Incidentally, I'm also considering which oil to put in my brand new box when it's fitted. Suspect I'll go for the expensive fully synth option ....

All you lucky gits with a choice of cheap solutions ! All I have is BT Satellite (very expensive) or http://www.w20.net wireless (£34ish per month) which hopefully will be installed sometime very soon .....

Does the ECU show any error codes ?

Could be, it is there and it is connected and I also connected up the neutral switch, but so far it's not made any difference.

Erm yeah ... mine has also never worked since the auto/manual conversion was done. One day when I'm feeling clever I may work out why. Perhaps it's something to do with the clutch switch or the redundant autobox controller flashing error codes now it has no box to chat to ...

I often pass through Stevenage and Knebworth - mine is the blue/mud coloured one !

Those photos are old from when I had the SE autobox cooler and the Jap spec oil cooler. I now have a UK spec oil cooler and a manual box. (I sold the cooler etc with the autobox). So it's a while ago now and I can't remember exactly how it was bolted on. I also checked all my other pics and don't have anything better.

Blue is best of course ...

Andy good ?

Autosol is OK, THE BEST is Belgom Alu, tricky to get hold of these days though.

So how's about an evening round my gaff then - I have a pool table.

Actually, I work in Harlow/Ware/Stevenage/WGC, so not far from you at all. Let me know if you need anything. I don't live in Harlow, but I think that's just the bit that Stu remembered after he got lost driving home fom my place ! LOL :D

Yes

You won't get anyone responsible installing it now ! I actually acquired a couple of aerosol cans of R12, plus a can of the lubricant from a friend who was given it by a Toyota dealer - and I'm hanging on to it until it's needed ! LOL :D

Yes this is one of the restrictions to alter the power characteristics for the Jap spec car. It's only spot welded in, you should be able to knock it out.

I presume there must be a little bit if 'give' in them. I had to tighten one of my new belts after a few weeks, maybe it was just because it wasn't quite tight enough to start with.

Is there enough adjustment left for when the belt stretches over the next 100 miles or so ?

I may also be able to help, especially if it's a socketing thing and people are near me !

Well if you emailed me then I'm in the Far East at the moment and haven't been reading my mail. Perhaps Mike can look into it.

It's only 'buffer' or resovoir tank, reckon you could lash something up with a strong tin can or something if necessary. No cure for the clutch booster though, although I don't believe they have been know to fail much. I suspect I have a tiny leak on my brake servo - that will be fun to fix one day !!!

LOL - should have bought a Series II ;)

If you're really obsessive then maybe the flushing oil but skip the Slick 50 etc. If you believe the blurb then perhaps try the ZX1 friction modifier stuff, but that is a fairly contentious subject too. However, they use it in some race engines ....

I have a couple of those fold-down chairs that we could use, but getting tables into the Zed would be tricky.

OK, a bit alarmist perhaps, but I firmly believe you should use a fully synth oil, not so worried about blockage of oil lines, but the turbo spindles get f-hot and if it burns/crystalises/sticks on those then the seals wear faster and it's blue smoke time ! A fully synth oil should have better high temp properties than a minera oil. I recollect that Nissan specify something like 10w40, I use 10w50 and am quite happy with my oil pressure.